- Joined
- Sep 16, 2019
- Messages
- 1,216
What would be a good say 3 stone set or diamond set, for this machine...
That would not break the bank???
Some of the plastic backed 1x6 inch diamond plated stones sold online does a good job for the price.
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What would be a good say 3 stone set or diamond set, for this machine...
That would not break the bank???
I've got these in my cartHi,
Well, sharpened a couple of knives and the stones seem ok.
Taking off metal and not wearing out from what I see.
What would be a good say 3 stone set or diamond set, for this machine...
That would not break the bank???
If you are sharpening knives under 12" then you should not need the rail. It is only useful in certain situations such as sharpening serrated knives which you need other things such as round stones to do.![]()
I noticed there’s a version without the rail available in the official store on Ali for 1/3 the price. The model with the rail costs around €90, plus €80–90 in shipping to Europe, making it quite expensive. In contrast, the version without the rail is €55, including shipping.
Since I primarily plan to use it for sharpening kitchen knives, I’m unsure if the rail is essential.
1. When is the rail actually needed?
2.Is it possible to add the rail later by purchasing it separately? It looks like everything else is the same between the two versions.
Just a suggestion. But some 6 x 1 diamond stones when you order it. For the price they are OK, and will get you started. Once you have worked out how to use your new sharpener and any little quirks it may have you can then upgrade. Buying stones for a sight unseen set up can work out very expensive.Thanks for the great reply! I don’t think I have any chef's knives over 12 inches, and if I do in the future, I might invest in another system or a rail—or just bring them to someone who can handle it.
I think I'll go with the setup without the rail for now, and I just need to find some good stones that will work with it…
Hi guys. Just got my Ketiped, in bits and pieces! Curious if anyone has a breakout pic of the main riser, so I can figure out where to put these tiny washers and spring. Also curious where these two "G" screw fit. I don't see them mentioned in the illustration sheet.![]()
Hello from Texas! Longtime Wicked Edge owner and Cutlery Butcher here.
I just received a Ketiped (Toohr #3?) . Before it arrived, I had Hapstone R2 clamps, Leading Edge magnetic table, etc., etc. inbound from Gritomatic, as well as other hardware from AMZ. Many thinks to all contributors of this thread! You guys damaged my wallet more than you know.
So, it's here, and I'm pleasantly surprised that it is really clean. I will be taking it apart, tightening screws and such, but I don't anticipate a whole lot of swarf and grime remediation.
It seems the sliding tower table design has been changed. What I received seems to be made all steel with aluminum feet; it's heavy. The graduated rule insert is no longer an insert, but just etched onto the all steel. I'm not sure if I like the enhancement, or not.
I plan to post pics of my initial assembly and setup later (If I can figure out how. I don't have an imgur account.), and for now I've a question: Does anyone know (guesses welcome) what this thingy is? It is in the slider that the tower mounts to. I'm thinking it is just jammed, not threaded, into the slider. It does have what appears to be a tiny ball in the end, almost like a grease fitting. With it in place I cannot mount the tower but one way; on the right of the slider. Should I try to remove it? Grab it with some needle nose and yank? I'm leery of taking the slider off, yet; too many warnings about bouncing, roll-away bearings.
Thingy Pic 1
Thingy Pic 2
That's what I'm thinking, to stop one from mounting the tower to the left side of the bearing slider assembly. But, why?Perhaps a stopper of some sorts?
I am, but not yet ready.If you're willing
Thanks. Glad to be here.Awesome, welcome to posting on Blade Forums!
I awoke this morning feeling ready, so I took the slider off. The 'nub' turns out to be a nipple, I think; a lubrication fitting. It was threaded into the green plastic end-piece, and I had to remove it to get the red plastic end-piece off. As I wrote earlier, it has a tiny ball on the outer end. It is a threaded (M3?), hollow tube, with the nub outer portion being a 4mm hex head.
Inside the slider there was a little, very little, swarf. But, there was a good film of light, relatively clean, oil on everything. I'm pretty sure the nub is a lubrication fitting. So, did they just forget to take it off after assembly and oiling?
I was so careful. I disassembled the slider over a large bowl, hopefully to catch any jumping, flying parts. But, in trying to pry loose the first bearing retainer wire, boom, 20, or so, ball bearings fell out, bounced off the bottom of the bowl, leapt onto the granite counter, and rolled, in all directions, off the edge, and jumped to the floor. From there they clickity-bounced and skittered into the best hiding places they could find. If there should be 44 bearings per side, or 88 total, I'm now 6 ball bearings short; I only found 82.
So, I searched this thread and found a link to AliExpress linear guide slider MGW15H. Just to check I also searched AMZ for "MGW15H." I was surprised that a whole bunch (similar, anyway) showed up, and even more surprised than many of them seem to come with the 'nub.' In the image of this one it looks more like a grease zerk: https://www.amazon.com/ThgivingStor...9/ref=pd_day0_d_sccl_4_28/144-8669635-3706554
I measured the steel balls with my digital calipers and came up with 1/8 (0.125) inch exactly, so I think I'll order a pack of 100 (440C stainless, grade 25) from Uxcell-AMZ and have them delivered tomorrow.
Has anyone mounted their Toohr/Ketiped to a flat, heavy board, like a thick HDPE cutting board?
Well, now that I know what it is, and that it can be installed and removed easily with a small crescent style wrench, I'll hang onto it. What I don't see is how the oil gets from the green plastic piece into the bearing parts of the slider, but it somehow seems to. It appears to me that the oiler threads into a blind hole with no escape.I am guessing it is a "ball oiler", basically you put an oil can nozzle against the end and squirt oil into it, the ball is spring forced forward and the oil pressure pushes it back so that oil goes in and then pops forward again to keep the oil from leaking out and as the bearings move past they drag a bit of oil with them. With things made in China you have 15 factories all making slightly different variations of the exact same thing, they probably got a batch with oilers (not a bad thing) unless it was actually a design change.
In regards to the etched scale, mine is not an insert, it is a milled down section in the bar that is sand/media blasted then laser etched. Likely done to keep the bearing from running over it and rubbing the marks off over time. Probably not needed so it was cut as a cost savings measure, or as mentioned this particular bearing manufacturer just doesn't do it. Mine is also a steel bar with aluminum feet.