Recommendation? Unnaturally crazy 'dagger' "Want!"

I owned this one for a long while - was my favorite throwing knife :thumbsup: :cool:

Ray

THE SOG DAGGERT ll
 
Last edited:
Maybe you want to consider some foreign options ;)

like this (Lkw Knives Inquisitor - 5" O2, hollow grind, full tang, micarta scales) http://www.lkwknives.ns48.pl/index.php/moje-produkty/taktyczne

NHnFyYF.jpg


or this (FOX Knives Fairbairn dagger reproduction - 6.5" N690, black PVD, walnut handle - originally a Hill Knives design)

img_20171108_101653.jpg
 
Talk about enabling... Certainly have no use for it, but 1075, full tang and micarta scales, I felt as though I was losing money by not buying it for $34 shipped:
A17-CT2325_700.jpg
 
My wife is gonna kill me for buying too many knives but I just now realized I NEED a dagger. You know, in case the Spetsnaz attacks me in my quiet, middle class neighborhood. Or I have to fight off Ninjas. Obviously.
Don't disregard a Zombie apocalypse. Dagger is a last line of defense!
 
Hold my beer ...


RcgPFQY.jpg


mOsylcF.jpg


Sword of Goujian.

Okay, so its not a dagger - still pretty friggin'
cool:D

/11/16/The-2500-Year-Old-Sword-Discovered-Untarnished-In-China/

By god, I do love it.
But was it made out of a meteorite??? lol
Way cool sword. Is it available on the exchange??? :D
 
Several have mentioned the Gerber, but no one has mentioned the Smith & Wesson H.R.T. Ya, I know, S&W is not a recognized knife maker. Just leveraging their gun maker market share into other revenue streams.... (damned corporate speak infringing on my daily posts)

I have both the Gerber Guardian and the S&W H.R.T. and IMO, the S&W is as good or better at 1/3 the cost.

Would still rather have the Tut daggers... :cool:


best-boot-knife-featured.jpg
 
One solid piece of drop forged 52100 ball bearing steel .I'm thinking on this one . Should be tough enough for some throwing ! I've got the small Bowie version and like it a lot . Coating is crap but boot daggers are generally not used much for batoning or chopping .
 
I have a Boker Applegate-Fairbairn dagger that my son carried in Iraq in 2004/05. (I have an EK bowie style that I got in the late 80's. Unfortunately with the paracord-wrapped handle.)
 
I love me a good dagger thread...just enjoy their lines I guess.

Bought a couple in the last year (Ek and CRKT Sangrador) and been disappointed. Kinda like you meet the girl you lusted for from a distance...talk some and find out she's really freaking unappealing.

The latest object of my dagger desire is the RMJ Raider...maybe that one could be true love? ;)o_O:D
 
I owned this one for a long while - was my favorite throwing knife :thumbsup: :cool:

Ray

THE SOG DAGGERT ll

View attachment 809231

Lol at the Comic Sans font where it says daggert 2.

There is always the Blackie Collins Tac II from Big Trouble in Little China.
6773809463_cd415a64a7.jpg


I have this guy, Extrema Ratio Pugio. I need to get a sheath made for it, this is the worst sheath. Maybe ok in webbing gear.
s6lZoPt.jpg
 
Sharpness is important on a dagger? It's meant for stabbing, I don't care who is supposedly "qualified to explain its basic functionality". Sure, sharpness might be icing on the cake, but I doubt any legitimate soldier who has actually taken a life with a bayonet was worried about sharpness.

Go ask any prison guard about a shank made from a toothbrush, they are going to tell you it was deadly because it's pointy, not sharp. Even a piece of rebar can be lethal, which is why OSHA requires us to put rebar safety caps on exposed bars.

Yes, they would be able to tell the difference, because with the shank they will have to be stabbed fifty times and will die an hour later, while with a sharp dagger you stab once and make it come out sideways, for more damage in one stab than in fifty...

The recipient will know the difference, trust me.

Gaston

A knife does not need to have a sharp cutting edge to render some one useless. It does not need to cost $100
I can tell you from experience the Smith&Wesson HRT dagger that cost $20 will kill some one and fast with only one puncture. When you stab your puncturing. One puncture greater than an inch in depth will send most people into shock making the uncombative. Most knife carry laws are in place to protect law enforcment not civilans. I read some where a test with kevelar vest. a knife of 3.5 or less has a very small chance of killing said officer. From what I took for this was the vest should slow down and limit a knife about 1.5 inces so the remainder legnth should be able to puncture a lung or heart i dont know if that true.
If you stab some one with a dagger make sure you turn it 90 degress before you remove it to open the wound channel, thus making the person die sooner. you can practice this with a cardboard box MUSCLE MEMORY!!! for those high stress situations when training response takes over

To the OP get both if you can!
 
You must be talking about unprepared for combat civilians, because I can tell you a combatant/warrior will NOT be sent into shock by a small or even large puncture unless it is properly executed and held for approx. 10 secs. min. :rolleyes: Note the movie version of a kidney stab followed by immediate death/incapacitation-BS. :thumbsdown:
 
yes i mean most civilians.. Working as a first responder you see people faint from the most minor injuries. Working on a farm ive seen very many greenies faint from small flesh wounds. But a puncture to a kidney will send you into shock pretty quick. you dont need to loose much blood before you go into shock. A wound like that with out immediate medical treatment=death. Either way warrior or not your not going to be combative
 
Last edited:
joker-knives-cc43.jpg

How about a Joker dagger from Spain model CC43? There is a tactical version(which I have) CF01. Apparently it is used by a cavalry unit in the Spanish army.
 
A knife does not need to have a sharp cutting edge to render some one useless. It does not need to cost $100
I can tell you from experience the Smith&Wesson HRT dagger that cost $20 will kill some one and fast with only one puncture. When you stab your puncturing. One puncture greater than an inch in depth will send most people into shock making the uncombative. Most knife carry laws are in place to protect law enforcment not civilans. I read some where a test with kevelar vest. a knife of 3.5 or less has a very small chance of killing said officer. From what I took for this was the vest should slow down and limit a knife about 1.5 inces so the remainder legnth should be able to puncture a lung or heart i dont know if that true.
If you stab some one with a dagger make sure you turn it 90 degress before you remove it to open the wound channel, thus making the person die sooner. you can practice this with a cardboard box MUSCLE MEMORY!!! for those high stress situations when training response takes over

To the OP get both if you can!
Nice description on how to kill someone..........
 
Several have mentioned the Gerber, but no one has mentioned the Smith & Wesson H.R.T. Ya, I know, S&W is not a recognized knife maker. Just leveraging their gun maker market share into other revenue streams.... (damned corporate speak infringing on my daily posts)

I have both the Gerber Guardian and the S&W H.R.T. and IMO, the S&W is as good or better at 1/3 the cost.

Would still rather have the Tut daggers... :cool:


best-boot-knife-featured.jpg

I have been looking at this knife for awhile now and I was just curious, is it made out of 440 series stainless or something else? The reason I ask is, I've seen product descriptions going BOTH ways. :confused:

It's a sweet-looking, attractive little dagger but, if it's made out of junky steel it's a bit of a turnoff. I don't want it snapping on me in the event I need to do some light prying w/ the tip. (keep in mind people, I said LIGHT prying. I know what the knife is designed for and I more than likely wouldn't purposely use it for something it wasn't designed for unless I had no other choice. In short, don't have a cow in the comment section) ;)
 
MKII stubby tang; I owned several of these prior to stumbling over an article, which showed the tang.

I was flabbergasted!!

As you mention, its a tiny little tang barely stuck in the handle.

The epoxy they use is top notch though.

I havent wailed on any of my Gerber MKIIs but others have beaten the snot out of them - not least in Vietnam.

Ive seen evidence of blades broken and guard 'horns' snapped but not one single instance of tang failure.

Amazing.

it is not amazing: The shorter the stick tang, the less leverage there is for vibrations or force to break it...

Even cheapo United Cutlery Rambos use a similar epoxy, and I've never seen a broken or separated example... Epoxied hollow handles knives are more vulnerable than the Mark II however, because of the large separate guard construction: If the tube or tang is smooth inside, banging the guard while chopping can cause the guard to act as a "lever" to overcome the adhesion of the epoxy: This would be totally prevented if both the tang and the tube handle had a slot or hole for the epoxy to "lock" on...

I've found Colin Cox custom hollow handles are usually devoid of these "locking surfaces", so the guard can easily leverage the tube handle apart: By breaking the tube adhesion on one specimen I had, the tang adhesion on another. I fixed the tube failure by removing all the epoxy (a hard task) and roughening the inside of the tube with a power tool, then pouring new epoxy (the tang itself already had a large "locking" hole)...

If Gerber uses any kind of stepped/rough surface inside to provide a locking surface to the epoxy, it literally cannot fail. Even if they don't, no separate guard piece and no real chopping impact means the epoxy will never lose adhesion. What is great about epoxy (the one usually recommended now is G-Flex) is that it is both very hard yet impervious to fracture, so it both "locks", "sticks", and fills a space, with no tolerance or cracking issues.

The only downside is it "sweats" oil when heating the knife to prepare it for a Cerakoat: By lowering slightly the preparation temperature, it does melt slowly enough to "sweat" over the sprayed paint, not under it, if sprayed quickly...

Many Randalls, including the model 14, also depend on this type of Epoxy to secure the micarta handles, often with only the lanyard tube to offer any "locking" (on the 14, only the epoxy adhesion prevents the micarta handle from rotating downward around the tube). They have no slots or roughened surface: It all depends entirely on the epoxy adhesion alone... The Clinton daggers don't even have a lanyard tube, so it is 100% adhesion (on a short tang) for those. Randall has done this for decades, and they are not worried.

Gaston
 
Back
Top