Virtual BBQ WIP West Coast Hunter

Erik, thanks buddy!

Wolffie,
I have the step pulleys on my KMG. For rough bevel grinding I use the middle speed, which is 1750 FPM. When doing finishing grinding I often take it down to the low speed, 800 FPM.
 
Hi Jon!

I tried leaving the little buffer piece at the tip of the knife. I'd never done it before; it worked as stated. I will make it a regular practice. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks Jonny!

One day I too shall have a proper grinder and grind at proper speeds. Mine is kinda scary at 3450rpm on a 4" wheel :D
 
Try 3600rpm on a 7" drive wheel! :eek:
 
Thanks guys! Didn't get any more done today, had to do some bevel grinding on other knives and get some handles glued up on a knife. I've got some cool handle materials ordered so I'm trying to figure out what kind of color/material combo I'm going to do on this hunter. We'll have to see...........
 
No, in fact HELL NO! :D I have yet to find any orange micarta for sale in all of my travels.:( Would love to get some one of these days.

This latest order was a high tech material order anyway, silver twill, blue/black carbon fiber and kevlar, 2x2 carbon fiber, etc. Gonna layer this stuff up with some wild liners and see what happens!

Here are some of the laminated slabs I've been working on lately. Handle slabs are one of those things that take a little time but they're not very labor intensive. All it takes is cutting the materials to size, surface prep, epoxy, clamp, and then wait 24 hours. The 24 hour wait is the longest part of the process and you can be doing other things while they set, so I've been making a point of trying to crank out laminated handle slabs so that I have a good supply of them on hand. That way, when a knife is ready I can just go and pick a pair out and glue 'em up. I'm hoping it will streamline things a bit.

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Slabs look great. You should sell some of your laminates. I know anyone can get them (most of them), but you are buying sheets and can sell slabs at a profit IMO.
 
Great thread Jonny! you are ready for mass production with all those scales glued up... Great design, and I use Plexi glass as templates.
 
Ok, made some more progress today.

Since I'm going with a rough finish on the flats on this one, then next thing I do after rough grinding is to bead blast the flats. I do it at this point because I'm going to continue to grind the bevels and don't have to worry about taping them off or anything. Here is a pic of the blade after bead blasting, soon I'll be grinding the extra meat off of the tip and finishing the bevels to A160 grit with gator belts.

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At this point I usually get out a small round diamond file and clean up the plunges a bit.

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After cleaning up the pre heat treat plunge lines, I grind the extra meat off of the tip and finish the bevels. In this case that meant taking the bevels to A160 grit with 3M Gators. Here is the blade ready to go to Peters in PA for heat treat.

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Wanted to get more done on this blade today, but got caught up with other stuff. A new drill press showed up yesterday so today I went out and got a few supplies and expanded/upgraded my drill press station. This new press from Central Machinery isn't anything special but I've seen plenty of pros use them so it must be halfway decent!:D This press will be a dedicated machine for countersinking and tapping with my Tapmatic. Should help to streamline things a bit, and at about $120 shipped it's not a bad investment.

Tomorrow I should be posting up a little more progress on the West Coast Hunter. I want to get some jimping filed into the spine before heat treat. How about some input.......do you guys think I should go with the heavy lug style jimping done with round needle files, or the finer style done with a checkering file? Any opinions for this knife?

Thanks!

Here is a shot of the newly upgraded drill press station.

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Epic WIP thread John :thumbup:

Lots of good ideas

Thanks
 
Epic WIP thread John :thumbup:

Lots of good ideas

Thanks

Thanks bud!

Here is the progress for today. I decided to go with the checkering file for the jimping on this one.

I start out by clamping up the blade in the vise and carefully lay down the file on the corner of the spine, at an angle roughly between 25 and 35 degrees. Starting the cut is the hardest part. I use a light, steady stroke until the teeth bite into the spine. The file is really hard and will jump around the spine if you're not careful causing all kinds of scratches that will have to be dealt with. I prefer to be very cautious at the start of my cut so I don't have to sand out scratches later on. After I get the corner cut in, I slowly move my strokes up to going flat across the spine then angled down on the far corner until I have a definite groove cut. Then I continue with nice flat strokes until the file bottoms out.

Starting the cut:

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I use a file card often during this process to keep it from loading up:

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A close up of a checkering file. A great tool that does a great job, but care should be taken with them. I learned early on that any lateral movement will quickly snap off the teeth in the outer rows of one of these. You need to take care to keep your strokes in line without any right/left movement. Back and forth straight and steady and these files will last a long time.

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Here is the spine after two rows of jimping have been cut into the steel:

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After rough cutting the corners of the spine will be sharp and not very comfortable for your thumb. I give each side of the spine one quick pass on the grinder with a 120 grit ceramic belt, holding the knife at roughly 25 degrees to the platen. This knocks off the sharp corners where you cut the jimping in.

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Finally, here is a shot of how the jimping looks after putting the blade back in the vise and doing some hand sanding along the flat of the spine and the corners with some 280 and 320 grit Rhynowet sheets. Blade is now totally prepped for heat treat.

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