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You know you can change the bits on those right buddy?![]()
Awesome jonny. I am so sold on a checkering file, what LPI are you using? Thanks!
Great WIP, Johnny! Thanks for posting! I've also found that using a file guide as a guide for my checkering file helps a lot - just clamp it on where you want the checkering to start, and it gives your file a good way to stay perpendicular to the blade spine. For me, it's more precise than my fingers![]()
Great WIP, Johnny! Thanks for posting! I've also found that using a file guide as a guide for my checkering file helps a lot - just clamp it on where you want the checkering to start, and it gives your file a good way to stay perpendicular to the blade spine. For me, it's more precise than my fingers![]()
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Here is a shot of all three versions I end up with when I finish to this point, the cardboard stencil, the acrylic stencil, and a profiled blade blank. I often get questions about the extra meat on the tip of the blade. I learned when I first started out from someone here on this forum that our natural tendency is pull the blade away from the grinder at the end of a pass. This results in the edge getting thinned out too much at the tip in relation to the rest of the edge. Leaving this extra steel on the end allows for a bit of thinning at the tip, then when the bevels are done you just grind it off and you've got a tip fully intact for hardening.
That is a great tip!
Back to jimping real quick using a carbide bit, I wonder if they make a little router table for a dremel to mount in? That way you would get perfect 90* contact with the carbide bit.