W2 Forged Integral Hawk WIP (FINAL PICTURES)

I know this may not be a popular opinion, but I think the spike should go away :) It would be a beauty if it just went flush with the handle line.

Flame Away!
 
I could see that, it's all a personal preference, depends on one's intended uses.
That's pretty freaking cool Scott! I like the look of a full wood handle, and yet this one is full tang, that's just the best of both worlds. I bet it will look even better once you have a final shape to the scales and that glass breaker. Very nice job! I've enjoyed watching it's development.
 
Zombiechopper said:
I know this may not be a popular opinion, but I think the spike should go away :) It would be a beauty if it just went flush with the handle line.

Flame Away!
Click to expand...

No flame, I think the head is very axe-like, so it would look alright without the spike. The spike is beautiful though, so it would be a shame if it disappeared.
 
You could opt for a hammer poll if you want to remove the spike. Afterall it's about putting everything into one tool.

I truly dig the idea of full wood handle. Takes away the rusty tang issue. I wonder if a layer of spacer in between wood and handle will do wonder?

0.02.
 
yeah.. this started off as a 'tactical' hawk/axe follow up to the last one I did. So I just kept the original idea going. It would make a nice belt axe too. And I sure would like the gift of time to make one like that for myself. It really feels amazing in the hand. A totally different feel than any I've ever held. I'm looking forward to doing another one of these with more 'bold' design elements as well....
 
On the spacer.... I often do copper or nickel silver liners between morticed handle scales. Looks great.. but not sure that it does anything. But perhaps you are referring to using some kind of liner material that would act as a shock absorber? That would be something to think about...
 
This looks AWESOME!!! I really like the hidden tang and handle. You should definitely keep the spike IMO. I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. The wrought iron looks great, gives it a lot of texture and character. This has been great to see come alive, thanks for sharing! I'm looking forward to seeing what's next!
 
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Well I had to grind the poon off. It was just to abrupt in terms of over all lines. Maybe on the next one.

The next one will basically be fitted like a custom knife... fitted guard, pommel... go all out. Why not? How about a sub hilt tactical hawk?


Thanks a bunch for tuning in. I learned a lot from everybody here .. so thank for all the feedback. Hopefully you folks learned something other than how to greatly increase the amount of work necessary to make a hatchet.
 
It's a georgous monster Scott. I've enjoyed watching it's progress. Is there another full/hidden tang hawk out there, with a wood handle? I know RMJ has the full tang w/ rubber handles, but that's a different beast.

What's the final weight, and balance point?
 
thanks folks... I wish I would've gotten the nice lines in it like the two piece.. but I was up against many hurdles on this one. Next time....

As to whether or not there are other hidden tangs.. I don't know. Somebody on another forum mentioned some kind of historical one from England.. but I haven't seen it.

The final weight is 1.25# and the balance the 1.5" below the head. It really feels great to chop with.. and the tapered handle provides plenty of slip control. I was toying around with adding wraps, etc... but I would prefer it be as simple as possible. I will decide after some more chopping if it needs any handle carving... but I don't think it does.

Well unless this sells, I plan to have it at the upcoming Arkansas show if anybody here is attending.
 
20 ounces? Impressive, especially with the thickness of the head. I'm liking it more and more. Great work!
 
Thanks again folks.

So the next one will be a hybrid of these methods. I like the look of the two piece construction. So I will forge weld the head to a tapered tang for a morticed wood handle. And the forge welded head will be backed by rivets. A good forge weld is just as strong as a single piece....
 
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