Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

I've only seen one or two choils that could actually avoid getting caught on a plastic bag when you index it by your hand. what I mean by that, your holding the bag taught, but its still all rummpled and all over the place - you place the bag on your index finger because you cant really see where to "place your cut", you then let it slip onto the blade knowing that it will be at the begginning of the edge, and you can start sawing through it.

no busse I have can do this, they all get caught on the plastic/fabric in the choil. in order to do that with a busse, I have to replace my cut knowing that I need to place it about 1" outward from my index finger, which is less accurate given little or no visibility.

This is a little more practical under "survival" situations, but this is how I cut large objects that have a lot of slack in them, especially when I'm in a hurry.



In general cutting, I use from the 1/2 way point to the ricasso portion of the blade the most, generally in a sawing motion rather then a push cut. This requires me to be very careful of my stroke length, because what ever I'm cutting will catch on the choil causing me to reset my cutting pattern.


The only blades I've seen that had a choil at all that could completely avoid this had a heavily slanted choil, where the angle from the edge to the choil was was something like 15 degree's, or the edge to choil junction was heavily rounded, combined with a shallow angle of entry into the choil. essentially, a choil geometry that allowed you to pull your hand away from the material without removing it from your stroke patter - and having the material be able to slip out of the choil on its own without you having to take the knife away and reset your cut.


It may sound like nit picking, but I personally will not carry any slicer that has a choil of any kind because of this. I'll carry a chopper and a prybar that has them, but nothing thats intended solely to cut things.
 
samek said:
Personnaly I like this one more:

BusseWoodcraft1.jpg
Click to expand...

Thats a great looking blade. If Busse came out with something like that I'd buy it in a heartbeat.
 
I like the design above. I know we all do since it's virtually an Active Duty with a larger choil and clip point. I can see differences (especially the swell on the underside of handle vs. the back/top as on the Duty knives. It's a nice touch.) and like the design a lot so I don't mean to sound critical of the work. I just don't think it is anything THAT different from what we can get now.
 
Last Visible Canary said:
I've only seen one or two choils that could actually avoid getting caught on a plastic bag when you index it by your hand. what I mean by that, your holding the bag taught, but its still all rummpled and all over the place - you place the bag on your index finger because you cant really see where to "place your cut", you then let it slip onto the blade knowing that it will be at the begginning of the edge, and you can start sawing through it.

no busse I have can do this, they all get caught on the plastic/fabric in the choil. in order to do that with a busse, I have to replace my cut knowing that I need to place it about 1" outward from my index finger, which is less accurate given little or no visibility.

This is a little more practical under "survival" situations, but this is how I cut large objects that have a lot of slack in them, especially when I'm in a hurry.



In general cutting, I use from the 1/2 way point to the ricasso portion of the blade the most, generally in a sawing motion rather then a push cut. This requires me to be very careful of my stroke length, because what ever I'm cutting will catch on the choil causing me to reset my cutting pattern.


The only blades I've seen that had a choil at all that could completely avoid this had a heavily slanted choil, where the angle from the edge to the choil was was something like 15 degree's, or the edge to choil junction was heavily rounded, combined with a shallow angle of entry into the choil. essentially, a choil geometry that allowed you to pull your hand away from the material without removing it from your stroke patter - and having the material be able to slip out of the choil on its own without you having to take the knife away and reset your cut.


It may sound like nit picking, but I personally will not carry any slicer that has a choil of any kind because of this. I'll carry a chopper and a prybar that has them, but nothing thats intended solely to cut things.
Click to expand...

Never encountered that problem, but yes, I see how that would be pretty irritating. The choil would need to either be large enough to really get your finger in, or not there at all.
 
So is this thing designed yet? Can we see a sketch? :D :p
 
blgoode said:
I am fond of that style of handle myself. it gives a sturdy grip and allows guys with larger hands room for there fingers unlike some finger cut out sizes.
companions_liners.jpg
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Man, you're getting better and better. Nice work.
 
This is from "Bushcraft" by Mors Kochanski

A blade 10-15 cm long will do intricate work like carving a netting needle, yet
be large enough to present a good target for a baton when cutting down small trees.

The curvature of the cutting edge should extend for the full length of the blade.

The blade should be of a good quality (insert INFI) carbon steel, from two and a half to three millimeters thick and about two to two and a half centimeters wide.

theres a good bit more but these are some of the main points for consideration.

Mors' apparent favorite blades tend to be carbon steeled Moras.

Looks like whatever Jerry designs will be a big winner.

J.
 
1/2" thick, 18" long ang khola style khukuri. oh yes... ooooooh yes.....
you can add the bushcraft design above into it as the karda...
 
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here are two representations (photochopped) of a custom that I currently have on order that kiiiinda fits the bill for this thread. all I asked for was:

sjtac black crinkle coat
no choil
as thin as you are willing to make it (it will only be used for cutting)

and that was it. one of the photos is mine, the other comes from bussecollector.com, and I'm not sure who the photographer is. should they wish it to be taken down, I'll gladly do so.

the second custom I have is a little harder to bring up, but its essentially skunks 3rd gen satin jack from the double edged finger grooved handle set he has, but with the same statements above, no choil, and as thin as you are willing to make it.

I have a feeling that I'm going to like the sjtac custom much better, because the handle lends itself to a full grip much, much better. the 3rd gen satin jack, especially with the thinner handle do to cuttng out finger grooves, will be better for detail work where grip the blade hard isn't as much of a necessity.

I personally feel that the sjtac handle is one of the best ever designed.



obviously with the added edge length from the missing choil - the sjtac custom will be pretty large. You could easily just apply the same requests (no choil, as thin as possible) to the badger attack and get a fantastic knife out of it. not all that aesthetically pleasing, but still very usable and versatile.

a slight recurve would help get rid of some of the clunkiness visually. same goes for a full flat grind, since it will give a contrast line between blade and ricasso. especially if its the birds beak style plunge line :D get a nice art nouveau curve going...
 
two concerns with the design that everone likes, sameks orange handled one -

the thing I disliked about the 3rd gen handles was the difference between grip in the index finger vs. the last three fingers. It seems like you can have a handle that has just a little, or a lot and have it be okay, but theres a mid point at wich the hand tends to slip forward readily, especially with a long curve between the two area's of the handle. on a smaller blade it's not as important, especially when it has a gaurd, but I never liked the feeling of my hand slipping forward on my knife when greased. I could see the same problem occuring with the design presented.

and this is fairly pedantic - the main grind will probably not extend that far towards the handle and into the choil. since that area of the knife will serve as a gripping point, you would want the metal to be thicker there rather then thinner so it doesn't cut into the finger when choked up. and by extending the grind farther inward then the edge requires, you lose strength where there is no benefit in doing so. Obviously this isn't that big of a design flaw, I just though I'd point it out :D
 
I like this one better. I asked litterally for "no choil, as thin as you are willing to make it", but I think it would do better with a less tall blade. It makes the overall appearance better, and I think it would be more manageable...

new photochop
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vs. old photochop
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oh yes... I want one of the top ones....
 
samek said:
gundy wrote:



OK, here it is, now you can buy one :D


Bussmuk1.jpg


Personnaly I like this one more:

BusseWoodcraft1.jpg
Click to expand...

I wonder how the top one would look if the spine hump were shifted back a bit to allow for a thinner, more penetrating point?
 
I think they should go with the BUSSMUK, all the others are just going to end up looking too much like stuff Busse has already done !!!
 
I don't no nuttin' 'bout knife designing.


You build it Boss, I'll buy it!!!!
 
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