Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

Well by the time I got home I realized that Jerry asked about a Woodcraft Blade and what I want isn’t that but rather what I think is a good backpack camp knife. So I’m going with what I want since I bug Skunk most!

The best way for me to explain what I want is to go from the CPDABA I have and say why I’d change things.

CPDABA - For me this is very close but… the knife needs to lose about 1 inch in overall length. It is just a little too big for me to control the tip of the knife as well as I’d like. ¼ inch can come out of the choil and ¼ from the pommel by just grinding it down. I like the look of a choil but really…. they don’t cut things. So if you can’t get your finger in it then it may as well be very very small. Maybe lose another ¼ from the blade and ¼ from the handle. If it was just me I’d lose more in the handle but some guys may have very large hands and need more there. OK one inch gone.

I’d want some pommel exposed… like 1/8 inch to use to strike a fire steel so I don’t have to use any part of the blade. Also the pommel needs to have a nice flat profile so there isn’t anything sticking you in the hand if you want to push the knife into something real hard with your palm.

The current blade is also a bit too tall, mine is 1.32 from edge to spine and that needs to come down to .95 to 1.1. The reason is that when I camp I bring treats in small containers or on short day hikes or one night out trips even little jars. A tall blade is cumbersome or just won’t fit in the containers; also I find that a tall blade gets in my way cleaning smaller fish.

As to thickness 3/16 is plenty thin.


The BA-III’s handle/slab shape is perfect I can’t think of any way it could be better.

As to blade shape I’d like to see the point dropped a little more without getting as acute of a point as the AD blade shape. To those that say a larger AD blade shape would work, I'd say yes but with a less acute point.

As to grind full convex would be cool and if not then full flat.

I don't like coatings but I can always strip it.

You could call it the “Camp Four” after the camp site in Yosemite Valley where Big Wall rock climbing was birthed in the USA (if not the world).

So here is the "Camp 4" and why tax people should never use photoshop.:p

camp4.jpg
 
Man that was hard work:eek:. Now I know why Skunk & Jerry need to drink...

One Martini on the way:thumbup:
 
I agree with 1whitefoot, a "woodcraft" knife should be "light and nimble rather than thick and strong". I think it needs a large ergonomic handle and a relatively short, thin blade. An anorexic AD blade shape, no more than 0.1" thick, with a magnum handle, the handle could even be made shorter in length and a bit wider. I think that the Norwegian's got it right in the Helle Nying in size and proportion: (photo from http://www.helle.no )

Nying.jpg


blade thickness: 2.78mm (0.108")
blade length: 7.0cm (2.75")
blade width: 2.1cm (0.82")
handle length: 8.6cm (3.4")
handle thickness: 2.5cm (1.0")
handle width: 4cm (1.6")

I spent many years working in the bush, and in my opinion this is one the best all around styles for a "bushcraft" blade. This particular knife could be improved upon with a sturdier handle material and INFI. My 2¢
 
I've been grabbing Nessmuk photos as I'm going order a custom pretty soon. Here are some of my favorites. They all share similar blade shapes and lengths:

razorbacknessmuk.jpg


10012787po.jpg


nessmukallanblade1b.jpg
 
I’d want some pommel exposed… like 1/8 inch to use to strike a fire steel so I don’t have to use any part of the blade.

Great idea... I use the tail end of my Meaner Street for that - even has a bit of a curve like it was made for it :) If it could have a bit more of a defined edge and be a bit more hardened it would likely spark even better:

meanerst.jpg
 
Great idea... I use the tail end of my Meaner Street for that - even has a bit of a curve like it was made for it :) If it could have a bit more of a defined edge and be a bit more hardened it would likely spark even better:

yes it needs to be a "hard" edge
 
Nice!!!!

But I didn't know that butter knife design was on the table:p



I've been grabbing Nessmuk photos as I'm going order a custom pretty soon. Here are some of my favorites. They all share similar blade shapes and lengths:

razorbacknessmuk.jpg


10012787po.jpg


nessmukallanblade1b.jpg
 
5 - 5.5 inch blade
no choil.
notched thumb ramp.
.187 " thick
full flat grind
acute convex edge
handle shape and talon hole provide lower guard protection.
Since there is no choil I would like the handle shaped to accomadate the index finger
Flat pommel for hammering duty
Thanks Jerry for asking
 
first off - no wierd nessmuck? shape - no guard, blade length of at (least) 6", width 2", handle 5", thickness of .25+, sabre ground, satin finish, leather sheath and fire steel available - wood or natural micarta scales... that would make a pretty sweet woodcraft knife.... imo
 
Funny... as I'm looking at the Meaner Street photo that I posted I'm leaning towards something with a long GW type handle (as mentioned earlier by rbmcmjr), a 4-5 inch drop point full convex or scandi grind blade (thin... but INFI makes it indestructible :) ), a ridged thumb ramp, and a pommel like the Meaner Streets which is hardened and has a sharp edge for sparking a fire steel.

I'd like a handle colour option of a bright blue micarta (like some of the Bark Rivers, but theirs is G10).... even the yellows and oranges can be hard to find if dropped in the bush, but there's not much in the natural world that's bright blue on the floor of the forest :)

The true Nessies seem to be more focused on skinning in their design.
 
I really like TonyG's design; I'd just like to see smooth micarta (black/olive or black/tan especially) and a scandi/sabre grind.
 
I know it's not drawn to ANY kind of scale and my drawing sucks, but I like the Sweetheart that 'ducci has, the Eu-17, and the grind that I've seen on some british bush blades. I'd LOVE to see one like this with a 5 1/2'' blade, 5'' tan micarta scales, and a birds beak....DOUBLECUT!!! :D :p With a polished blade grind :) around .150'' thick.
P8210013.jpg
 
How about adding an inch to the blade of the game warden. Keep the handle the same and keep it thin
 
How about adding an inch to the blade of the game warden. Keep the handle the same and keep it thin

Like a kid in a candy store....I want onedems too :p.....'cept with another 1/2'' to the handle legnth so my fat pinkys can ride comfortably too :D

AND I WANT ONEAMINES!!:thumbup:
 
Actually, my picture sucks.....I should have put the thumb groove forward a bit....ERRRG...
 
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