Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

[Tony G]

This deserves another look...:thumbup:

The knife I posted here post #105 with the orange handle is a Bark River Kephart. Other than the handle being (in my opinion) too fat it is just about everything I'd want.

 

[Guyon]

Did he just say "Bush Duty"?

 

[hlee]

Yeah, and penetrator tip.

 

[randucci]

The knife I posted here post #105 with the orange handle is a Bark River Kephart. Other than the handle being (in my opinion) too fat it is just about everything I'd want.

Tony, bring the Bark River Kephart to Blade West and I'll look at it to see if the handle can be re-shaped to what you want.

 

[Tony G]

Tony, bring the Bark River Kephart to Blade West and I'll look at it to see if the handle can be re-shaped to what you want.

There you go.... I was thinking of that and you saved me a pm:thumbup: I may mail it to you so you can give it some thought.

Right now it is just a big shapeless mass of orange micarta. The upside is that there is plenty of it there to work with.

 

[J85909266]

• Bush Duty Specifications
• 4.5-inch blade
• recurve
• thin
• penetrator tip
• choil
• top & bottom front talon holes (forming a natural guard)
• skull crusher pommel
• rear talon hole

Double-cut with tan canvas & double-cut with green linen, please

Respectfully submitted.

Sounds like you want a small combat knife. Aside from "thin", none of that makes any kind of sense for bushcraft.

 

[idahoskunk]

i think it should be like the sh badger but with a less pointy blade, 3/16th or less, zero edge, nice round pommel for using the palm of your hand if needed, smooth canvas micarta for good gripping or lightly textured, choil is either or for me, choice of d-cut or coated for corrosion. test run to be offered at blade west just to see how it looks of course.



.

 

[willm]

"Sounds like you want a small combat knife. Aside from "thin", none of that makes any kind of sense for bushcraft."

I guess then I do not understand the criteria to be satisfied. I envisioned something that was versatile and 'flexible.' It would appear that I need to do some research.

Your comments jogged my memory. Would this knife be paired with a small ax and folding knife? If I remember a past magazine article correctly a knife such as the one being commissioned was so paired?

Thanks for the input.

 

[getrdone44]

I like the smooth handle on Rat F knife and what Skunk said about smooth or lightly textured handle canvas micarta.:thumbup::thumbup:

 

[Aquacopter]

Ok seriously are you guys trying to piss off my girlfriend. I have been drooling over Busse knives for way to long and haven't been able to get one but if this comes out I might be sleeping on the couch for a while if you know what I mean.

 

[A druid]

this design by Lacie came to mind

 

[A druid]

this design came to mind I've always thought it would make a good survival knife.


if you took the howling rat the old-style with a rubber handle, move the choil back about a quarter inch so it butted up against the handle and made a little bit smaller. made the knife even a little bit wider with a nice big belly. Added a thumb ramp and alternating serrations down atop swage, this would be about right for me, coating would be a definite plus.

PS I'm sure there's argument on this point but I think the old rubber handles might help a lot in wet or very dirty situations. Which you would probably encounter a lot of

 

[HDBeav]

I'll take two! and some Skunk junk. And a leather sheath,

well, better get one in kydex too. Will prob need another

handgun to match....and a kifaru to carry it and..........

 

[wn2142]

My specifications:

- Choice of 2 steels; a high carbon steel and a stain-resistant. I'd pick INFI and S30V, maybe D2. I prefer the latter two because of stain resistance. This is more important in the field than most people think; nearly a third of the utility of a bushcraft knife comes from preparing food and I don't want rust anywhere near my meals.

- 3/16" blade thickness, no thicker. With a flat grind this makes a great slicer and 3/16" is just enough body to support the length of a...

- 5 inch blade. No larger, no smaller. Coincidentally, this is the largest legal carry size in Texas. Any blade length smaller than this is covered by other well known knives. Any blade larger than this requires a proportionate increase in thickness.

- Full drop point blade with flat spine. Recurves, clips, spear points etc. have little added use in bushcraft, complicate most bushcraft tasks and increase difficulties when field sharpening.

- Penetrator tip: a reinforced tip would be worth modifying the drop-point geometry to achieve. Many bushcraft tasks from drilling holes to splitting wood begin with blade penetration. Almost all prying-type maneuvers invariably exert the most stress on the tip.

- A small choil is useful when sharpening and to choke up a little on the blade for fine work, however, larger radius choils common to other Busse knives are a waste of blade length and mass on a bushcraft knife.

- No talon holes. Trademark or not, everyone I've talked to when discussing bushcraft blades never use them.

- No serrations. While they do add utility they are almost always poorly designed and complicate sharpening. Most of the "combo-edges" I've seen subscribe to a 60/40 rule but very few serrations are needed, if at all, on a bushcraft knife. Just enough to cut cordage is acceptable, but a plain edge is preferable.

- Hammer pommel. Any length of tang that extends beyond the scales is fine. A "Skull-crusher" point seems silly in bushcraft, unless you've become annoyed by that know-it-all guide in front of you...

- Field-replaceable scales. Being able to remove or replace the scales in the field increases the utility of the knife--I have small, thin hex tool in my sheath for this reason. It also lends itself to customized selection of handle material at time of purchase.

I'm a big fan of Benchmade blades and the best bushcraft knife I can think of is a hybrid of the Nimravus and Doug Ritter's version of the fixed Griptillian. Extend the blade length to 5 inches and increase the thickness a touch and everyone on the Benchmade forum would buy one. I'd buy 5.

 

[samek]

I suggest two knives.
1. Busse Woodcraft
2. Busse Voodcarv

Pictures are worth as 1000 words. Here they are.

1. Woodcraft

Blade length: 10,5 cm
Handle length: 12 cm
Length owerall: 22.5 cm
Blade thickness: 3 (3,5) mm
Blade finish: no finish, just like it is when you remove the coating
Handle coulour: orange or white
Konvex grind

2. Woodcarv

Blade length: 5,8 cm
Handle length: 12 cm
Length owerall: 17,8 cm
Blade thickness: 2,5 mm
Blade finish: no finish, just like it is when you remove the coating
Handle coulour: orange or white
Konvex grind

Greetings, Samek

 

[randucci]

Samek, it looks like you have very good design software, could you modify the picture of the top knife and make the choil much smaller? Maybe 1/5 - 1/6 smaller? Thanks.

 

[barrabas74]

Samek I like knife number one. I have no use for a knife like #2 but still an interesting design.

 

[Nordic Viking]

Samek's first blade seems to curve exactly where I would use the spine on a firesteel. A straight(er) spine would be better, IMO.

 

[m1x]

Samek: Those look great. How about #1 with a slightly longer blade 12.5 cm and smaller choil.

I would like to see scales that can be removed in the field.

 

[Rat Finkenstein]

My specifications:

- Choice of 2 steels; a high carbon steel and a stain-resistant. I'd pick INFI and S30V, maybe D2. I prefer the latter two because of stain resistance. This is more important in the field than most people think; nearly a third of the utility of a bushcraft knife comes from preparing food and I don't want rust anywhere near my meals.

You don't know anything about INFI, do you?