Wanna Help Design The Busse "Woodcraft" Knife????

Cobalt said:
Horn Dog, how do you like the yard keeper. That is IMO the perfect 4 inch blade. Just as much blade as handle. It will be a classic one day. :thumbup:
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The Keeper is the thickest knife in that size that I have ever seen. I ground a thinner edge on mine, but the HRLM still out slices it. There is no doubt that the Yard Keeper would be a good small survival-type knife, but for everyday use I prefer the Street Scapper 4, HR, and HRLM. The YK is an impressive little beast, though.
 
Just enough different from an uncoated HRLM to be distinctive and be suggestive of Nessmukian heritage is the goal. If it got more than a little far from the HRLM it would be diminished in versatility. Keep the guard, grind, and handle similar. A little thinner would be OK and anything over about 10 ounces or so would be too much (the HRLM is 9.5 oz, the BA is 15). If someone wanted a thinner point, it's a small matter to remove a little steel. A shallow choil with unrounded edges for those who like to use fire steels would be fine. "Resistance is futile":D Here's hoping for my grail... :)Regards, ss.
 
I was thinking something like this, maybe with the finger groove transition in the handle a bit more like the BAIII. . .



woodsblade2.jpg



I don't really like Nessmuks, except for Daniel Koster's Monster sized ones.
 
rbmcmjr said:
.... Can't wait to see what comes out of Jerry's imagination.

Rick
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I look forward to that as well. Maybe then I can stop buying all these knives that just are a bit off.


too big
DSC05868.jpg


slabs too fat
DSC05867.jpg


too small
DSC05869.jpg


too bulky
DSC05870.jpg


needs more of a drop point
DSC05871.jpg



And this Bark River so far has been the best one for me.... but I don't like the way the handle drops off the plane of the spine. I understand that it cuts better because of that but I wish is was less pronounced.
DSC05872.jpg
 
Rat Finkenstein said:
I was thinking something like this, maybe with the finger groove transition in the handle a bit more like the BAIII. . .



woodsblade2.jpg



I don't really like Nessmuks, except for Daniel Koster's Monster sized ones.
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that is very, very pretty. I wouldn't mind seeing an updated basic 9 with a sf'ish handle. I don't know if a full fusion handle would be good since it would need to be able to carve. But I like how light yet at the same time heavy it was. I still consider it the best "all around knife" I've held. no choil though :D
 
Crude drawing of a Nessmuk HRLM sans choil and thumb dent. Looks more Nessmuk than SRKW or Busse though.

Bussmuk.jpg
 
I would be interested to hear from Nessmuk aficionados exactly what makes this design a "woodcraft" knife.
 
A couple of months ago I attended a "Hammer in" (and no, we didn't sit around and get drunk!) which is where a bunch of knife makers and collectors get together, talk knives, maybe even play with some steel. I ended up playing with some L6 steel, a forge, a hammer press and a hand hammer, I had no knife shape in mind, I just started smashing hot metal. The results was the general shape in the picture below (I have removed some of the up sweep that was on the tip, which looked a little more Nessmuk like at the time), I have done a little profile sanding to it. After seeing this thread, I got to looking at the knife and thought the shape was a little like what some of you described, although it is too big and thick to be a "Woodcraft" knife.


 
The Game Warden looks almost perfect. I would thin it out, somewhere over 1/8th" but under 3/16ths", stretch out the blade by an inch, make the spine nice and square so it could throw a spark. That would be awesome. Rat's design is about exactly it.
 
ItchyTasty - that's a dang good one there! :thumbup:
 
Forget Nessmuk, and think Kephart.

The Kephart design is a much better woodcraft knife than the Nessmuk. It balances better and is very comfortable in any grip. The straight edge is also more wood friendly than the curve of the Nessmuk. That hump on the spine of the Nessmuk is absolutely useless, it adds nothing to the knife aside from visuals.

The knife has to be thin, 3/16 is way to thick for a woodcraft knife. It should be spear point or have a very dropped point. It would be good to keep the blade length at around 4 inches. The handle slabs should come as close to the plunge line as possible. No choil what so ever. This gives the most control possible on detailed work.

A longer AD blade full height, no choil, .140 to .170 thick, a GW handle stretched a bit and you have an awesome bushcraft/woodcraft knife.
 
here is my idea bring back the BIRCH KNOB POLAR DROP knife im not sure of the dimensions,here is a pic made in the early 1980s and burried in Minnesota in 1989, look on Badmojo.com click on the odds & ends tab at the bottom of the page to see the pic and description:D
 
ItchyTasty said:
Crude drawing of a Nessmuk HRLM sans choil and thumb dent. Looks more Nessmuk than SRKW or Busse though.

Bussmuk.jpg
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Nice Itchy. I like that this one has what some of the others don't, the pointier tip for detailed carving is good. Good job...I'd buy it.
 
ItchyTasty said:
Bussmuk.jpg
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That's it! Thin, like 1/8" with smooth contoured micarta or grooved G-10 handles, DC or Satin. 4 1/2" blade, MAX...

Maybe a mini and regular version. One for smaller detail work, and a larger model, say 6" and 3/16" for heavier work.

:thumbup:
 
It's a neat looking design, but why the hump in the spine? If you drew a straight line basically from the bottom of the thumb ramp to the tip of the blade you could get rid of all that extra metal, making the knife that much more maneuverable.
 
Revised
  • 4-inch blade
  • CRK Sable-type blade
  • thin
  • penetrator tip
  • choil
  • flat pommel
  • talon hole

Double-cut with tan canvas, please

Respectfully submitted.
 
This deserves another look...:thumbup:

cgd160 said:
Forget Nessmuk, and think Kephart.

The Kephart design is a much better woodcraft knife than the Nessmuk. It balances better and is very comfortable in any grip. The straight edge is also more wood friendly than the curve of the Nessmuk. That hump on the spine of the Nessmuk is absolutely useless, it adds nothing to the knife aside from visuals.

The knife has to be thin, 3/16 is way to thick for a woodcraft knife. It should be spear point or have a very dropped point. It would be good to keep the blade length at around 4 inches. The handle slabs should come as close to the plunge line as possible. No choil what so ever. This gives the most control possible on detailed work.

A longer AD blade full height, no choil, .140 to .170 thick, a GW handle stretched a bit and you have an awesome bushcraft/woodcraft knife.
Click to expand...
 
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