Whacha Been Up To......

Just watched a video on You Tube, titled: "Japan, the Country of Artisans! Top 5 Amazing Manufacturing Processes in Japan". I only watched the part starting about 32:00 about hand made hiking boots. Interesting watching how the very skilled man, did his leather cutting processes. Instead of a half round knife, he had something that looked more like a chisel, Very sharp and for skiving he had an assortment of "L" shaped blades. Hand sewed the the leather bottom of the boot, and obvious he knew what he was doing. John
 
TURLEY made J John A. Larsen - number 4 of the SCORPIUS model from circa 2017 -

M31 Scorpious - varied grind, od canvas micarta handle scales, thick nickel silver pommel plate with lanyard hole, stainless loveless handle bolts, standard protect-o-plate.
Blade length: @ 4 1/4ā€
Handle length: @ 4 1/2ā€
Thickness available: 1/8ā€ thru 1/4ā€
 
TURLEY made J John A. Larsen - number 4 of the SCORPIUS model from circa 2017 -

M31 Scorpious - varied grind, od canvas micarta handle scales, thick nickel silver pommel plate with lanyard hole, stainless loveless handle bolts, standard protect-o-plate.
Blade length: @ 4 1/4ā€
Handle length: @ 4 1/2ā€
Thickness available: 1/8ā€ thru 1/4ā€

Iz definitely makes some cool stuff....
 
A family at our church ordered a third slip sheath for one of their sons for a handed down Buck 373 folder. All of their sheaths have a similar embossing pattern just varying colors and thread to keep each one slightly different
I use Tiger thread 1.2mm, saddle stitched

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Key to keeping the embossing crisp is to restamp after dying to keep them tight
G2
 
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Lol only sometimes when I am dyeing, IF I remember, but often not, since I moved to using an airbrush system to apply the dye things dye much more evenly than ever before, and, the leather is dry very quickly afterwards, so that cuts down the wait time.

I do use a white cutting board to work on to help prevent any transfer from previous projects which I think helps a lot.

Thanks Ray!
G2
 
Thats cool Gary.

Finished off a new batch of knives and sheaths:

A Rodeo.

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A Cowboy.

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A Vaquero.

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Also finished up a holster for this older Beretta:

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NIchole has been busy too:

A notebook cover.

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A travel bag:

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And a new Crossbody Purse design, a prototype for herself:

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Completely canvas lined and all interior seams are bound:

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We've been doing this awhile. In front of the Alamo in 2003. They didn't call me Chief Greybeard back then:

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Love that bag! Nice work!
 
Came out well....like the ruff.outšŸ˜‰!! Especially with your handle work on that blade!!!
Nice job..
 
A family at our church ordered a third slip sheath for one of their sons for a handed down Buck 373 folder. All of their sheaths have a similar embossing pattern just varying colors and thread to keep each one slightly different
I use Tiger thread 1.2mm, saddle stitched

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Untitled by GaryWGraley, on Flickr

Key to keeping the embossing crisp is to restamp after dying to keep them tight
G2
Do you restamp everything after dying? Iā€™ve tried before but canā€™t line everything up correct the second time. That must be really tedious work the second time around!
 
Yes, I wet the leather using a spray water bottle and then stamp in the embossings, and after it dries Iā€™ll stamp a second time and then Iā€™ll dye the leather and one more time to emboss so now it is very tight and crisp, reason for repetition of stamping them is that every time the leather is damp, from water or dye, the leather tends to swell up and the embossing can lose it's crispness.
Caution is advised to take time to set the stamp in place before striking, if a stamp one that can be placed in either direction, I mark the handle so I remember to hold that mark towards me each time, lessens the risk that the stamp has small differences when placed in either direction.
G2
 
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Good work, and great taste in multi-tool also, I've owned one of those for many many years!
G2
 
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