What are the advantages and disadvantages of ZDP-189?

I picked up a zdp composite shallot about three weeks ago. Seen light pocket carry, maybe 8 times leaving the house. Cut open perhaps 12 envelopes and a plastic bottle, and I live in Chicago, if that matters - I've already got some discoloration on the zdp portion of the blade. Just a few spots, but this hasn't been an issue with other stainless type steels for me (never had a carbon steel blade). VG10, CPM S30V, and CPM D2 (semi stainless) have seen a whole lot more dirt, sweat and work and haven't had the slightest touch of rust or patina.

That being said, the knife is SHARP and pops hairs off the old arm. Looks like I've got mange. The lesson I took away was that ZDP is fantastic, but I don't baby my knives that much. I was looking forward to the spyderco zdp frn stretch, but now I think I'll buy a vg10 one instead.

DC
 
I do not see any difference in CPM M4, CPM S90 and ZDP189 I have on Mule 2, 3 and 4. I just recently resharpen all of them and all of them whittle hair just fine.

Thanks, Vassili.

Good for you. I get hair whittling from all quality steels way before I hit lapping film, so the earlier the grit the steel starts to whittle hair (I've had CPM M4 start taking little curls of hair at DMT Fine, and easily whittling at Spyderco medium on a microbevel) and how soon it gets to the point where it is too the point it is so sharp whittling hair becomes difficult because the knife just severs the hair in two when I very lightly go to whittle it. For me there is a difference. Unlike you I use thin backbevels and microbevels, and I deburr at every grit to get maximum sharpness at each grit. Either way both ZDP 189 and M4 are fine steels, and there is a lot more to cutlery than cutting Manila rope. Yes, it is a good test, but I cut a hell of a lot more than Manila rope with my knives. I agree ZDP 189 is a more wear resistant steel than M4, but that is not the end all in a knife. Different steels strengths (like the relative toughness of M4) will make it perform better in edge impact tests, while the ZDP should outcut the M4 for long term, duller level cutting as it has more carbides. M4 has excellent wear resistance but relatively good toughness as well, at least a lot of cutting competitors seem to think so. I personally like it more than ZDP by a tiny bit, partly because IMO it gets sharper, and partly because my Krein Ultimate Caper in M4 is such a good knife.

Mike
 
Good for you. I get hair whittling from all quality steels way before I hit lapping film, so the earlier the grit the steel starts to whittle hair (I've had CPM M4 start taking little curls of hair at DMT Fine, and easily whittling at Spyderco medium on a microbevel) and how soon it gets to the point where it is too the point it is so sharp whittling hair becomes difficult because the knife just severs the hair in two when I very lightly go to whittle it. For me there is a difference. Unlike you I use thin backbevels and microbevels, and I deburr at every grit to get maximum sharpness at each grit. Either way both ZDP 189 and M4 are fine steels, and there is a lot more to cutlery than cutting Manila rope. Yes, it is a good test, but I cut a hell of a lot more than Manila rope with my knives. I agree ZDP 189 is a more wear resistant steel than M4, but that is not the end all in a knife. Different steels strengths (like the relative toughness of M4) will make it perform better in edge impact tests, while the ZDP should outcut the M4 for long term, duller level cutting as it has more carbides. M4 has excellent wear resistance but relatively good toughness as well, at least a lot of cutting competitors seem to think so. I personally like it more than ZDP by a tiny bit, partly because IMO it gets sharper, and partly because my Krein Ultimate Caper in M4 is such a good knife.

Mike

Well, you are talking about things which are not yet defined and accepted.

I am not yet convinced that knife which cut through is sharper then one which able to whittle. First one seems to have more pressure to cut and so when it finally penetrates it goes too fast to whittle and just cut it in pieces.

So I always thought it is duller then one which able to whittle. And If it is not whittle but cut - I continue sharpening until it start clearly whittling.

Of course I am talking about free hanging hair whittling. If it is under tension - this is not whittling but scrubbing and can be done with duller edge.

Thread test also show higher result for whittling edge - (10-15), then for one which goes through without and can not make delicate whittling (15-25).

All my four Mules responded pretty well.

No if you think that your somehow doing it better - please provide some evidence. What is impact test? Are there any results published etc, not just word. I pay quite an effort to have my results - and what is behind your word? I can not be just an opinion.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Vassili, I bow down to your greatness. When I say the hair severs into two pieces I am barely touching it to the hair, in a slow, deliberate movement to start whittling it. I'm not samarai swinging at the hair, just slowly touching the edge to it. At a point before that sharpness it is easier to peel lots of fine curls. As for impact testing, have you ever hit a packing staple? Something else unexpectedly hard that is hidden in what you are cutting? M4 edges hold up better than ZDP edges do to that, at least in my experience, in the form of a much smaller chip. It isn't that ZDP just crumbles, it certainly doesn't, but the extent of damage from a packing staple on the edge is much less. I am speaking of some thin knives here that this has happened to me with, edges in the .005"-.007" range with angles on the backbevel well under 10 degrees per side and a 10-15 per side microbevel. The edges will also deal with lateral loading better, which often is unavoidable in real world cutting, though not much of an issue just cutting in a jig for cutting rope.

I know how much work you did on your testing, and I really applaud your efforts, but do you really think it is the last and only word on edge retention or knife performance? It certainly is a huge amount of work and admirable, but I also put a lot of stock in Phil Wilson's testing and experience, and also the testing of lots of others. In my personal testing I used 5/8" manilla rope to compare D2 to CPM D2 and it was a pain to do multiple runs with lots of stopping to try to measure sharpness. I have since just gone by using the knives for EDC or other tasks to compare them and see how they hold up over several sharpenings and at different geometries. A lot of times I will cut a defined amount of cardboard to directly compare a couple knives, but not that often any more. Recovering from back surgery sucks. I think limiting yourself to 15 degrees per side is really limiting your performance with some of the better steels like ZDP 189 and M4, which take thinner, more acute edges with ease and keep on cutting. Another thing that would be interesting is for you to take a knife like my SE Endura 4 Wave with a Tom Krein FFG and see how much the SE improves the performance of the VG-10 steel. It came to me hair whittling sharp, gets back that way on the sharpmaker, and holds it's edge much longer than PE VG-10 in my experience. I would also like to see you compare a Tom Krein sharpened edge for slicing rope. It would be interesting to see how a tree topping 120 grit edge fares in your testing, as his edges last a very long time in sling up cardboard and rope for me. Obviously using a longer slice, which is what most people use for rope, skinning, ect., will let coarser finishes shine more than a push cut test. Phil Wilson uses very coarse edges as well, from his years of experience doing work like skinning they are the best for that and his rope slicing tests. I personally have had polished edges last a really long time doing the same work, but a well formed coarse edge that tree tops hair would be interesting to do an extended slicing test on. Again, I always go back to my polished edges, but Tom Krein's 120 grit edges are very impressive.

I'll now defer to you on all things knife related and exit this discussion.

Mike
 
Vassili, I bow down to your greatness. When I say the hair severs into two pieces I am barely touching it to the hair, in a slow, deliberate movement to start whittling it. I'm not samarai swinging at the hair, just slowly touching the edge to it. At a point before that sharpness it is easier to peel lots of fine curls. As for impact testing, have you ever hit a packing staple? Something else unexpectedly hard that is hidden in what you are cutting? M4 edges hold up better than ZDP edges do to that, at least in my experience, in the form of a much smaller chip. It isn't that ZDP just crumbles, it certainly doesn't, but the extent of damage from a packing staple on the edge is much less. I am speaking of some thin knives here that this has happened to me with, edges in the .005"-.007" range with angles on the backbevel well under 10 degrees per side and a 10-15 per side microbevel. The edges will also deal with lateral loading better, which often is unavoidable in real world cutting, though not much of an issue just cutting in a jig for cutting rope.

I know how much work you did on your testing, and I really applaud your efforts, but do you really think it is the last and only word on edge retention or knife performance? It certainly is a huge amount of work and admirable, but I also put a lot of stock in Phil Wilson's testing and experience, and also the testing of lots of others. In my personal testing I used 5/8" manilla rope to compare D2 to CPM D2 and it was a pain to do multiple runs with lots of stopping to try to measure sharpness. I have since just gone by using the knives for EDC or other tasks to compare them and see how they hold up over several sharpenings and at different geometries. A lot of times I will cut a defined amount of cardboard to directly compare a couple knives, but not that often any more. Recovering from back surgery sucks. I think limiting yourself to 15 degrees per side is really limiting your performance with some of the better steels like ZDP 189 and M4, which take thinner, more acute edges with ease and keep on cutting. Another thing that would be interesting is for you to take a knife like my SE Endura 4 Wave with a Tom Krein FFG and see how much the SE improves the performance of the VG-10 steel. It came to me hair whittling sharp, gets back that way on the sharpmaker, and holds it's edge much longer than PE VG-10 in my experience. I would also like to see you compare a Tom Krein sharpened edge for slicing rope. It would be interesting to see how a tree topping 120 grit edge fares in your testing, as his edges last a very long time in sling up cardboard and rope for me. Obviously using a longer slice, which is what most people use for rope, skinning, ect., will let coarser finishes shine more than a push cut test. Phil Wilson uses very coarse edges as well, from his years of experience doing work like skinning they are the best for that and his rope slicing tests. I personally have had polished edges last a really long time doing the same work, but a well formed coarse edge that tree tops hair would be interesting to do an extended slicing test on. Again, I always go back to my polished edges, but Tom Krein's 120 grit edges are very impressive.

I'll now defer to you on all things knife related and exit this discussion.

Mike

So, in short - you have nothing to show to back up your words.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
So, in short - you have nothing to show to back up your words.

Thanks, Vassili.

In short he's saying he respects the opinions and the testing methods of others, but disagrees that pure edge retention (not wear resistance) is the only method of testing. Toughness, wear resistance (carbides formation), stainless properties, and other aspects (high speed steels for instance) must be taken into account when comparing steels. This is why you can't say AUS-8 is better then ZDP-189 definitively unless you know the intended use.
 
...but do you really think it is the last and only word on edge retention or knife performance?
He absolutely does. 300%. Even though in those tests initial sharpness of different blades varies as much as 100%, i.e. force to make the cut, still based on that he can confidently conclude steel A is inferior to steel B.

I also put a lot of stock in Phil Wilson's testing and experience, and also the testing of lots of others.
If you read Vasili's earlier posts you'll find you that his methods are far superior to Phil Wuilson's :rolleyes:. Even though Phil makes identical test knives from different steels and sharpens them the same to make more fair tests and Vasili uses wildly different knives sharpened quite differently to compare the steels, still he feels he's methods are ze absolute, last and only objective words.
 
So, in short - you have nothing to show to back up your words.

Thanks, Vassili.

Sorry, I'm not the videographer you are, and frankly don't have the time or inclination to do as much as you have done either formal testing wise or documenting every nick or scratch I get in a blade when cutting things. I guess I'm just a lying blow hard. I don't sit around all day dreaming up contraptions to cut rope in, I just cut things as required and go by my results these days as I have a lot more on my plate like an actual life (recovering from back surgery and working 50 hour weeks) and family than to devote months to testing, as much as I would like to play with knives all day and night. Every time I hit a packing staple or chip out an edge from something I don't run for my camera to take a picture. I just sharpen it out and move on, thickening the edge or thinning it as I see fit. But no, I have no proof M4 doesn't chip out as bad as ZDP when hitting packing staples, just my lame old words and the steel properties of M4 vs. ZDP-189. I'm one of ZDP's biggest fans and it sure as hell isn't a steel that easily chips out, but to ignore the fact that a tool steel might actually be tougher is ignorant. Sorry I don't meet your requirements for being able to comment on relative steel performance because it is only from my real world experience that a film crew didn't capture. Maybe I should sit down cutting nails for the hell of it to test toughness and chip depths on steels to verify this for you? Actually, no I won't. Have fun cutting rope in your contraption and filming yourself some more to be a You Tube star. Keep thinking Dozier D2 is the most wear resistant steel ever (it is great stuff, but Sodak might enlighten you on Phil Wilson's 10V), and just keep on telling anybody that uses common sense and real world experience they have no "proof", and only you have the "proof" on anything relating to cutlery performance. Keep ignoring and insulting guys like Phil Wilson, and keep on getting all pissy at Sal Glesser for not being exact to the minute on Mule Team release dates. You have now entered my ignore list. Have fun on the forums.

Mike
 
The funniest thing about Vassili's testing, which he cites as gospel whenever he can, is that the one blade he retested, Yuna Hard in ZDP, showed radically different results the second time. It's a shame that after all that work I don't think anything can really be concluded from the results.
 
I would like to see M4 vs ZDP-189 using acute edge angles like 20° degrees inclusive. This is what I use for my EDC knives, and only the best steels hold up w/o chipping or rolling. Large angles don't really take advantage of what M4 has to offer in terms of cutting ability and edge retention. My M4 blade is actually a bit less than 20° degrees inclusive and it was tough enough to cut off an SUV door with very minimal edge roll that I fixed easily afterwards. I can tell you that there is a lot of metal in a car door, and even then smaller angles are better with certain steels.
 
I know Gator97 does not like nozh's tests because of the variance in initial sharpness, among other things, but who measures the initial sharpness to the same degree in their testing? I wish the start points were more consistent, but not too many people get their knives a similar level of polish when they start, and one of the most annoying things, it seems nobody measures the same thing when testing. Some measure the force on each cut, some after a set number of cuts, some use a bit of draw, some a straight push, some it's 3/8" rope, others it's 1/2", and so forth. I like reading the results from all the tests, but they don't gel very well at all.

I don't know how consistent anyone's edges are, and I don't exactly know the cause of blunting in any of the tests either. It's people cutting rope by hand, it only gets so good, and comparisons only go so far.
 
I could give a damn how people "test" knives.
There will never be a true test that shows one knife is better than another. Never.
I buy what I want and if I don't like how it works for me I sell or give it away.
Never had a knife I couldn't get sharp. Unless you count those that wouldn't split atoms. ;)

mike
 
I care about the tests, because these in particular aren't about the knives, but the steels and specific sharpening techniques. This can then be applied to other knives and helps in my decision making process. I don't know what's a better knife overall until I get it in my hands. That's when the atoms start shaking :)
 
I know Gator97 does not like nozh's tests because of the variance in initial sharpness, among other things, but who measures the initial sharpness to the same degree in their testing?

I have no problems with the tests themselves BTW, it is the conclusions based on those tests I disagree with, especially when promoted like last word in knife testing.

If one makes a conclusion based on 5-10 g difference in the forces applied that steel A is better than B, then logically the same person should be concerned with 15g difference in initial sharpness.

Alternatively, if you go by percentage, and A was better than B, because it required 40% less force, without taking into account that initially those two required 100% different forces to cut...
That is why I think the test and conclusion are invalid, that is to say steel A is better than steel B.

I can make some conclusions based on those tests, for individual knives, but to compare the steels based on those tests isn't quite correct.

Especially when nozh goes out and very easily dismisses other makers cutting tests, even though makers at leas can make identical knives from different steels. Yeah, I know he can't make those knives, but that doesn't mean those are dismissible or wrong compared to his tests.
 
Yeah, the best I try to get is to compare from a similar measure how many cuts until another matching measure, but then it's hard to say what influence the difference in initial sharness has. I look at 30-40g to 100 or so, it isn't conclusive but it helps I guess.
 
I tired of everybody telling me what I couldn't or shouldn't do with a knife, so I embrace patina, sharpen more often and stick with carbon blades ;)

:thumbup: Your perspective makes sense to me. Very practical.
Knives are tools. Buy good ones and use them hard.

Would you share your current favorite Fixed blade (Rat?) and Folder?
Do you even carry a folder?
 
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