What did you rehang today?

Emerson & Stevens Mfg co. Forest King double bit. 1940. New OP link 28" cruiser db handle substantially reshaped by me.

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Walters pulpwood axe on a reused handle. Not sure this will last as a piece of the knob came off when I was hanging it.

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Today I rehung my first husdon bay. Not sure of the make. Maybe true temper because of the eye ridges? I hung it in a 24" handle.

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Walters pulpwood axe on a reused handle. Not sure this will last as a piece of the knob came off when I was hanging it.

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Thank you for using the appropriate Canadian terminology on a Walters, Hull, PQ. product! Canuck "Pulp ax" (for short) is the equivalent of "boy's axe" in the United States.
 
Two Maul heads hung on an osage orange handles with black walnut wedges. Heavy enough to need two hands, to short to use more than one. :D Troll hammer I've heard them been called before, I'm a large fella, so they work well as a deadblow hatchet sort of thing, did it more because I could, I suppose. .

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American Axe and Tool Company single bit, hung on hickory with hickory wedge. And a Boys axe hung on a vintage handle

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Two Kelly Perfects, one more exciting than the other, both on vintage handles.

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Lincoln Double, hung on a red elm handle with osage orange wedge.

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Buster Brown hatchet, hung on a red elm handle with cherry laminate ends, which didn't POP as much as I hoped. Osage Orange wedge as well. Really liked how well the color worked out on this one, it's hit and miss sometimes, Yellow is a tricky color to make work, working on finding more of an old school golden yellow.

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Found a rather rare axe head a month or two back, the bevels are what caught my eye.

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American Axe and Tool Catalog has some insight on the head.

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After cleaning the head, it was clear there was no sign of an etch on the head, so it likely would've had a paper label rather than the etch. I know some had that etch, as I have one that does, and have seen one or two others with it. Rather than gluing on a printed re-creation of the label, I decided to try and take things a step further and etch it myself. There is a not so subtle change to the etch, that should help keep it clear for whoever ends up with this thing in the future, that it is not an original etch.

Overall pretty pleased, hung it on a red elm handle with black walnut laminated swell and wedge. The wife voted blue, not sure I love that part. But the typical black does get old after a spell.

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Two Maul heads hung on an osage orange handles with black walnut wedges. Heavy enough to need two hands, to short to use more than one. :D Troll hammer I've heard them been called before, I'm a large fella, so they work well as a deadblow hatchet sort of thing, did it more because I could, I suppose. .


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First off my compliments; You do beautiful work! And I really enjoy your non-typical choices for tough wood.
But you are going to have to learn a little bit about grain runout or the fella that 'really goes to town' with the pictured maul will prematurely be coming back for another handle after a few overstrikes.
On display pieces AA fancy grain wood (sort of like buying gun stocks) is 'real purdy' to look at but on users you want 'structural grade select', preferably in vertical end grain (which I see you've carefully done) orientation if the handles are curved, if greatest durability is desired.
 
Nice job! I've been itching to try an angled wedge in a hammer but forgot completely about it the last few I did. I cross wedge nearly all of them I do, but I realized the angled wedge would have basically the same effect with a lot less work.
 
Found a rather rare axe head a month or two back, the bevels are what caught my eye.

After cleaning the head, it was clear there was no sign of an etch on the head, so it likely would've had a paper label rather than the etch. I know some had that etch, as I have one that does, and have seen one or two others with it. Rather than gluing on a printed re-creation of the label, I decided to try and take things a step further and etch it myself. There is a not so subtle change to the etch, that should help keep it clear for whoever ends up with this thing in the future, that it is not an original etch.

Overall pretty pleased, hung it on a red elm handle with black walnut laminated swell and wedge. The wife voted blue, not sure I love that part. But the typical black does get old after a spell.

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I'm not so sure that we should be encouraging masterfully done, but deliberate, fakes. You cannot guarantee the provenance of this head and anyone naively bidding on it will obviously have been fooled into believing it's authentic.
 
I'm not so sure that we should be encouraging masterfully done, but deliberate, fakes. You cannot guarantee the provenance of this head and anyone naively bidding on it will obviously have been fooled into believing it's authentic.

Had similar thoughts myself while doing so. I've seen someone try to sell a fake raven once, however anyone who truly collects them, was able to spot the differences. I also know a fella in Australia with several re-creations, fakes if you want to call them that, however they are more like tribute pieces. A fake would suggest you are attempting to pass the item off as an original. Call it a copy or a print if you'd rather.

If the three sided bevel shape, matching the catalog exactly is not enough evidence, there are some markings left behind on the head, while not completely clear, you can't deny the last line of dates to match this image below
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If you ask me, those two factors are pretty definitive.

My avenue for deterring any to pass this off as an original etch would be the last box below the etch, where it says Berens Axe House, the name of my shop. Rather than Americanax, the original wording. If you do not catch this, when looking at the head, then I question how close you are looking at it to begin with.

You then also assume that this head will be for sale, while the majority of my work is sold off, I have a rather large personal collection. This thread is about items you've hung, not items you're selling.

I am open to any ideas on how to further set this type of work apart from originals, or as 'fakes'

I will be very selective with which heads get a re-creation label etch on them, no common etches such as black ravens, plumb champions, etc. appropriate model and manufacture for said label, and always modified to include the shop name.
 
I'm not so sure that we should be encouraging masterfully done, but deliberate, fakes. You cannot guarantee the provenance of this head and anyone naively bidding on it will obviously have been fooled into believing it's authentic.

Who is "we"?
 
Nice job! I've been itching to try an angled wedge in a hammer but forgot completely about it the last few I did. I cross wedge nearly all of them I do, but I realized the angled wedge would have basically the same effect with a lot less work.

Could you explain that. It looks to me as though the angle wedge would put mostly lateral pressure, like a regular wedge, while cross wedges would put pressure in four directions.

(Cool job on that angle wedge, 252. I never thought of that.)
 
Nice job! I've been itching to try an angled wedge in a hammer but forgot completely about it the last few I did. I cross wedge nearly all of them I do, but I realized the angled wedge would have basically the same effect with a lot less work.

I would think it would move the head. Might come in handy at times. But ya...
 
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