What did you rehang today?

rjdankert said:
:thumbsup:



Bob
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I won't lie the second cross wedge piece isn't really in there much at all, but it really didn't need them and I only put them in there because I already had the kerf cut ( not as deep as the main wedges' kerf ) and was pretty much committed at that point.
I think if I had bothered to read up on agent H's thread about cross wedging I probably could have done a better job with the cross wedging.
 
Hickory n steel said:
I rehung my Germantown 1.5lb machinist hammer on a new handle, and had my first go at cross wedging.
They pretty much went in, but I don't think the eye is big enough for a cross wedge job.



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Looks to be a well fitted handle and pretty nice overall! I sense from your post that you aren't completely happy with it. You just put some time into to get it to that point.

I like it H&S. The magic is that you can pick those out if you want to do it again. And, there are no steel wedges to pry out.

I'mSoSharp, I think you asking why would you do that to a larger hammer is a valid question. My larger sledge with the wedges like that does stand up on its own. I have yet to run a forge so maybe standing on their own is desireable. When I cold pound something or use them on splitting wedges they get laid down. Not for fear of marring my woodwork but the lack of a flat surface.

They are alway one run of a coping saw and a quick rasp away from flush but still wooden cross wedged.

"Different wedges for different sledges" :)
 
Agent_H said:
Looks to be a well fitted handle and pretty nice overall! I sense from your post that you aren't completely happy with it. You just put some time into to get it to that point.

I like it H&S. The magic is that you can pick those out if you want to do it again. And, there are no steel wedges to pry out.

I'mSoSharp, I think you asking why would you do that to a larger hammer is a valid question. My larger sledge with the wedges like that does stand up on its own. I have yet to run a forge so maybe standing on their own is desireable. When I cold pound something or use them on splitting wedges they get laid down. Not for fear of marring my woodwork but the lack of a flat surface.

They are alway one run of a coping saw and a quick rasp away from flush but still wooden cross wedged.

"Different wedges for different sledges" :)
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Overall I'm happy with this hang, I just wish I could've do it nicely cross wedged for that great look that results.

Btw this hammer stands upright easily, and I don't see how any hammer wouldn't if the wood is good and square.

Edit. I went ahead and easily removed the wedges and re did it after setting the head down a tiny bit more because I noticed it wasn't square.
I'll post another picture tomorrow.
 
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Square_peg said:
The problem with the Sandviks is that the blades pop loose under heavy use. Gimme a machete anyday.
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Somehow I suspect that the spring tension of the frame was compromised on the one you used. The 20 enthusiastic young men I worked with bent or wrecked lots of blades but I don't recall one ever coming loose. Safety-wise I doubt anyone with Workers Comp-insured workers issues machetes anymore.
 
I used a bunch of Sanviks when I was at the local DNR and they all had the problem. I might swing harder than the next guy. My swing is pretty refined.
 
Square_peg said:
I used a bunch of Sandviks when I was at the local DNR and they all had the problem. I might swing harder than the next guy. My swing is pretty refined.
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I don't know what to say in this case. Out-of-spec or maybe after-market blades perhaps? It's a bit of a chore to release the tension on these and the blades are captive during down strokes. But I have noticed that Swede saw (bucksaw) blades used to cut relatively straight (most of my experience with these was 30-40 years ago) whereas the ones you buy nowadays won't run true to save anyone's life. When companies start to manufacture blades thinner than they once were it does ultimately come back to bite them!
 
Agent_H said:
Nice! If you run your file over the top and round the edges (take 1-2mm off and everything blends together) Great looking hammer. :thumbsup:
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Thanks, I'll go ahead a round off the edges more than I already had.
Some information I found lead me to believe this hammer was made in the 1880's but now I'm thinking more likely the 1950's
I know the company name changed to Griffith tool works in the 50’s or something and they continued to use the Germantown name on some stuff, but I don't know what said stamp looked like or how long they used it.
 
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Especially like the handle! I've been looking at your axe and wondered if the "Made in Austria" or the oval eye could place a maker or time frame?
 
Kevin Houtzager said:
I see those quite a lot here. They where marketed by Sandvik. Most of them where made by Helko in Germany, but this one, since it has sweden on it is made by Wetterlings. This is actually a lighter one: They go up to about 4.5 pound head weight. (2KG)
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My dad bought me a 2 1/4 lb -marked Sandvik - Sweden in the early 1960s. The head still has orange paint. I didn't realize that Sandvik farmed out a lot of their work until a few years ago (I bought new Sandvik ignition pliers - made in China) so am I now to presume the axe was actually made by Wetterlings?
 
This probably doesn’t belong in this forum but I wasn’t sure where it did belong. It’s logging related I guess and I fitted a handle to it for use. It was hung today. If this junk is bothersome I can stop.

Besides, even if I did post it somewhere else, it’s the guys here that I would want to hear from anyway.

I’d bought what I thought was a long shovel or hoe 60” handle quite a while ago. My intention was to make a “monster hoe” but that piece of metal is hanging around my folk’s house now. I got it from a guy who had it set across his rafters in his outbuilding. I think it’s actually a fire rake handle after looking around. That handle and a really skewed axe handle were what I wiped extra BLO onto to get it off rags or gloves from doing other stuff.

The housing is about 11 inches without the pike part. The doweling that the pike is set into goes past the last swedge mark leaving maybe 4.5”-5” of space to fit a handle. I got a hair over 4” in there.

It’s 72” overall and has a slight little bend to it. The hook portion is set with the bend since it seems like to matter how you stand or store them they would want to roll that direction with the weight – don’t know if that was smart or lazy now.

It's not a big boy like in some of the old photos/ads we see. However it is 6’, an arm’s length, plus however far you are willing to lean over's worth of reach.

I will hang an axe soon as well – this was just quicker than a shovel and easier than a hammer - but standing on a chair to knock it in.
PikeStreet by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr


PikeStreet by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr
 
Agent_H said:
This probably doesn’t belong in this forum but I wasn’t sure where it did belong. It’s logging related I guess and I fitted a handle to it for use. It was hung today. If this junk is bothersome I can stop.

PikeStreet by Agent Hierarchy, on Flickr
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None of this is 'junk' to me. Thank you for posting and henceforth make sure that it's strapped into whatever watercraft you're travelling on. For grabbing lines and fending off from docks, or rocks, or dealing with overhead lines, vines or branches, you'll quickly grow to love it. The incidental spear point feature might even have prevented Jaws from ever becoming a movie.
 
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