What did you rehang today?

I hear ya,I think the lighter handle would look good on there.Dont know about nos thinking about an old axeman video where he said it was his favorite,cant remember if he said 34 or 32,anyways I think you should swap them.
 
https://imgur.com/a/6YKVR

True Temper FSS 3.5 lbs. 36” Hardware store handle thinned down significantly. Tried it out on a 8” inch ash, fell it and bucked through twice, the edge held up great. The metal felt average to me when filed, still have to sharpen the “utility” edge. It was my first time using a double bit, it’s a different feel, must be the balance and stright handle.

Thoughts on adding a metal wedge? I like the look without it.
 
Thanks. The wedge is cherry, I had some scrap from another ther project so I made a bunch. The wedge slot was cut a bit crooked but it worked out ok. The gouge at one end of the eye is the largest defect. It’s not too deep. BLO on the handle.
 
Maine20 said:
https://imgur.com/a/6YKVR

True Temper FSS 3.5 lbs. 36” Hardware store handle thinned down significantly. Tried it out on a 8” inch ash, fell it and bucked through twice, the edge held up great. The metal felt average to me when filed, still have to sharpen the “utility” edge. It was my first time using a double bit, it’s a different feel, must be the balance and stright handle.

Thoughts on adding a metal wedge? I like the look without it.
Click to expand...
Please don't do it unless you're planning on selling it or are well away from your shop or repair tools and are driven to desperation to keep the head from flying off. Otherwise use only wood wedges or (perhaps) tapered shank screws (authentic 75 year old Plumb versions, anyone?) because these can be adjusted or removed without going through a lot of effort nor having to ruin the handle.
 
300Six said:
Please don't do it unless you're planning on selling it or are well away from your shop or repair tools and are driven to desperation to keep the head from flying off. Otherwise use only wood wedges or (perhaps) tapered shank screws (authentic 75 year old Plumb versions, anyone?) because these can be adjusted or removed without going through a lot of effort nor having to ruin the handle.
Click to expand...
“Tapered shank screws” Sounds like a good idea... gonna look in to them. Are they still made?
 
Maine20 said:
Thoughts on adding a metal wedge? I like the look without it.
Click to expand...

Don't unless you absolutely have to. If it has started to come loose then I suggest re-driving the haft into the eye and then driving the wedge a little deeper. You can make a special punch to drive the wedge by whittling it out of hardwood - perhaps an old axe handle.

If you can get the haft protruding 1/4" through the eye and then drive the wedge 1/8" below the haft then you're set. The haft will swell over the wedge locking it in place.
 
Square_peg said:
Don't unless you absolutely have to. If it has started to come loose then I suggest re-driving the haft into the eye and then driving the wedge a little deeper. You can make a special punch to drive the wedge by whittling it out of hardwood - perhaps an old axe handle.

If you can get the haft protruding 1/4" through the eye and then drive the wedge 1/8" below the haft then you're set. The haft will swell over the wedge locking it in place.
Click to expand...
I have done this on another axe and it worked great.
 
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as requested, one 4 pound KP on one 36" bingmaster semi-octagonal knob end. can you guys find out something on the handle? also, why is the head not marked kelly?
 
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