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What did you rehang today?

Brian Rust said:
Unmarked head but yes pretty sure it is a Plumb.
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Is there a discrete mark such as a star, diamond or crescent somewhere on the blade? I've always wondered how a warranty claim or defect return of a paper or foil labelled axe can positively pinpoint the source. I find it unlikely that a big company such as Plumb would deliberately make and supply axes that became unidentifiable the moment their or a jobber decal wore or washed off.
 
Hacked said:
This is perhaps the laziest rehandle I've done slopped together with no care at all. Sort of a nice change of pace. I wanted a flat cheeked axe to compare to ones I have with high centerlines and so I tossed this ugly beater together.

Harbor Freight camp axe side view by MJGEGB, on Flickr

Harbor Freight camp axe profile view by MJGEGB, on Flickr

I started off by taking apart a perfectly good hatchet from Harbor Freight. It cost a total of $8.47 and was made in India. I then hung it on a reject handle that had warped after thinning it out. Despite the watered handle and poor quality head, it's shameful how well it still performs.
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Hey, I got lucky with mine about 5 years ago.
It holds a shaving edge pretty darn well and way better than I'd expect.
 
300Six said:
Is there a discrete mark such as a star, diamond or crescent somewhere on the blade? I've always wondered how a warranty claim or defect return of a paper or foil labelled axe can positively pinpoint the source. I find it unlikely that a big company such as Plumb would deliberately make and supply axes that became unidentifiable the moment their or a jobber decal wore or washed off.
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I need to clean up the head a little more and then I will let you know!
 
jblyttle said:
Finally an axe! A nice older Craftsman head on a hand selected Lowes (Ames) handle. I'm into this for about $16.

IMG_20180227_220937 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr

IMG_20180227_221025 by Justin Lyttle, on Flickr
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Absolute beauty choice of handle jb. Can't get any better than that. But that hang (are my eyes deceiving me?) doesn't appear to fill the eye. Not even close! No amount of Poplar filler-type wedging can entice me to trust such a 'sales presentation' for actual use.
 
300Six said:
Is there a discrete mark such as a star, diamond or crescent somewhere on the blade? I've always wondered how a warranty claim or defect return of a paper or foil labelled axe can positively pinpoint the source. I find it unlikely that a big company such as Plumb would deliberately make and supply axes that became unidentifiable the moment their or a jobber decal wore or washed off.
Click to expand...

I cleaned up the head and found no markings. I also did some research on this spicifically and couldn’t find anything on markings for stickered plumbs. I know Woodslasher sometimes have numbers or letters but sometimes they don’t have anything.
 
300Six said:
That's the back end. How's about a shot of the front, a little less shaded than the one you posted earlier.
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What can I say. It's a top down close up shot. I could not make it more clear.

Tell me more about my "sales presentation" as you put it.
 
jblyttle said:
What can I say. It's a top down close up shot. I could not make it more clear.

Tell me more about my "sales presentation" as you put it.
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I tend to call out BS when I see it. And two replies later all I have from you are poli-sci obfuscate responses. A "Face on" (shot looking directly into the eye) is what tells me what I based my initial judgement on. Had your hang been loose at the back (like sharpening a pencil so as to pretend it fits perfectly snug in a piece of pipe) you'd not been able to set the wedge. The artfully shaded front-end shot you posted initially seems to show 1/8 to 3/16 void between the head and the handle. That's all I wanted to clarify.
 
300Six said:
I tend to call out BS when I see it. And two replies later all I have from you are poli-sci obfuscate responses. A "Face on" (shot looking directly into the eye) is what tells me what I based my initial judgement on. Had your hang been loose at the back (like sharpening a pencil so as to pretend it fits perfectly snug in a piece of pipe) you'd not been able to set the wedge. The artfully shaded front-end shot you posted initially seems to show 1/8 to 3/16 void between the head and the handle. That's all I wanted to clarify.
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You got me. I was trying to fool everyone but you saved the day. Although most hangs are imperfect, this forum is lucky to have you to call out all of the dishonesty and obfuscation. If it wasn't for you I would have fooled everyone. Damn.

Honestly, when I posted that axe, the last thing that I imagined was that I would be debating my own honesty.
 
300Six said:
I tend to call out BS when I see it. And two replies later all I have from you are poli-sci obfuscate responses. A "Face on" (shot looking directly into the eye) is what tells me what I based my initial judgement on. Had your hang been loose at the back (like sharpening a pencil so as to pretend it fits perfectly snug in a piece of pipe) you'd not been able to set the wedge. The artfully shaded front-end shot you posted initially seems to show 1/8 to 3/16 void between the head and the handle. That's all I wanted to clarify.
Click to expand...
I see a small gap between the back of the eye and the handle in the close up looking down at the head. I have had this occur when the top of the eye is longer then the bottom. In my experience this is a common problem and impossible to avoid unless you want to file the front and back of the eye perfectly parallel to each other. I don’t think anyone wants to do that. Looks like a good hang to me.
 
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