- Joined
- Jan 10, 2015
- Messages
- 1,102
Yankee Josh- I like your bending jig
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Thank you for reminding me of one of my favorite albums from 25 years ago. I have not listened in 15 years.You are welcome anytime.
Bob
Edit: I almost forgot. Just so you know, my "shop" is the clubhouse for the He-Man Women Haters Club.
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We need a tutorial.Yankee Josh- I like your bending jig
Looks great! What type wood did you use for the handle? It's very straight-grained.
Oh damn I was starting to miss youWoodslasher cruiser
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3.5lb jersey on a 28in handle
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That's a head that looks like it was in a fire.She's done! I can't call it a 100%success yet because time will tell if and more bend relaxes out. I lost about an inch but since then it's remained at 3-1/8" with the broad axe laying flat. My bend is just a little too low so it's not perfect but i know i can use it without barking my knuckles. I just can't choke up on it as much as i wanted to.![]()
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This was really a lot of fun to do. Making steam is easy. Capturing it and directing it without the right equipment is another matter! I can't wait to try this baby out. You can bet I'll take some pics when i do. This was so heavily pitted and it took me a very long time to get all the pits out. But it's razor sharp and ready to go! Thanks for looking!
Yankee Josh- great looking broad axe. If I was going to hew with it I would set the head a little deeper (if you can) to help with your concerns about the location of the bend. I would also bob the handle to 24", then hew, then if you still need to bob more dont go any shorter than 20". Factory broad axe handles when they were available from Link were 36" long, but that was so each broad axe man could bob it to the correct length. This was easy because there was no swell on the broad axe handle needed. I rarely have ever seen a vintage or even a current user broad axe haft with a swell.
Thank you for that advice. I wasn't sure what the proper length was but i know i can't cut it long. So i figured I'd wait and I'm glad i did. I got the head seated to a point where i could no longer get it off again. I wanted to get it father down the shoulder but i don't have any steel drifts to drive the haft back out. I've been using oak and that usually works but try as i might i could not get that haft back out. So i used my 3#sledge and drove it on as far as i could get it. This particular axe isn't the nicest one I've ever seen so it was a good starting point for me. I made a sheath for it just now.Yankee Josh- great looking broad axe. If I was going to hew with it I would set the head a little deeper (if you can) to help with your concerns about the location of the bend. I would also bob the handle to 24", then hew, then if you still need to bob more dont go any shorter than 20". Factory broad axe handles when they were available from Link were 36" long, but that was so each broad axe man could bob it to the correct length. This was easy because there was no swell on the broad axe handle needed. I rarely have ever seen a vintage or even a current user broad axe haft with a swell.
Jb are you saying that due to the coloration? I nicked the steel in a few places with a good file and the steel is soft where it's supposed to be soft and hard where it's supposed to be hard. That tells me no fire? Unless someone re-tempered it. I was just curious why you thought that.That's a head that looks like it was in a fire.
Yeah that would be interesting to see! This was red paint though. They didn't bother to clean any rust and just painted it. I didn't have a large enough container to soak it in evaporust which would've removed the paint in the pits. So i just used a wire wheel and some elbow grease with wet 400 grit.Is that red paint or "burn rust" I think is the gist of jb's post. I have a peavey that's been in a fire I can take pics of tomorrow if you want.
Yes that's why. I have seen axe heads and old cast iron pans put into camp fires and when they come out the rust turns a very consistent dark pink/light red color. If that was an old rusty pitted head that had everything painted over, that would explain the look.Yeah that would be interesting to see! This was red paint though. They didn't bother to clean any rust and just painted it. I didn't have a large enough container to soak it in evaporust which would've removed the paint in the pits. So i just used a wire wheel and some elbow grease with wet 400 grit.