- Joined
- Aug 21, 2013
- Messages
- 3,898
Phidauex- nice hang on the M 3 1/2! I've run across several of those but didn't pick them - yours looks really nice. I think Operator1975 mentions something about them in a Collins thread here.
The Plumb hammer is a handsome tool and a treasure. I really like what you have done with the handle finishes.
I use BLO and/or Danish oil straight or in a mix. There is a small jar that I keep Danish oil and BLO in. 1 part Watco: 3 parts BLO.
I use Watco Danish Oil. Grew up with it on everything from work benches to picture frames. In all honesty, I am not well-versed in oils/finishes/varnishes but my father always mentioned it having a linseed base. It's what I have around so it's what gets used.
I get varying results from the different mixes:
1. Dry, sanded handle/ no heartwood with Danish oil only as first coat- lighter wood retains light color and the grain is darkened. Hardens the wood and provides a protective finish and shine. Feel like it creates a barrier , seems to keep BLO from soaking in as well, but will with elbow grease. Light sanding helps BLO penetrate and kind of darkens the lighter portions of the wood, resulting in a more BLO color with darkened grain.
Watco first example:
2. Dry, sanded handle with BLO 1:3 mix as first application there is an overall darkening of lighter wood and grain. Darker and "harder" finish than BLO only. No sanding necessary and seems to soak the mix up repeatedly yet not as readily as BLO only.
Watco/BLO example:
Older handles/NOS I usually just use BLO- the idea of bringing out what is already there is appealing. If its birth pre-dates mine and looks good then it doesn't "deserve" altering by the likes of me lol.
Watco straight and the 1/3 mix have had varying effects on heartwood as well - not always predictable. Sometimes it comes out with a reddish, auburn, orbalmond coloring or sometimes darker than the average grain in a handle without heartwood with either applied.
Heartwood example:
Definitely not a "stain master" but since Danish Oil was brought up and it's the only one I use, thought I would share. Your results will vary for sure. Each handle is different in how it takes oils, how porous it is, how you've prepped it, whether you apply them warm or cold, humidity, length of time between applications, and many other things I'm sure.
I've even noticed a difference in color if the axe/handle is placed in direct sunlight to cure/dry right after applications of the Danish oil/BLO mix. It also seems to make almost a harder and shinier finish than not leaving in the sun.
Sun cure example- 1:3 mix only for 4-5 coats, left in the sun on a hot, sunny day, an hour or two in between coats:
*Tung oil seems like a great option but I've only used it on surplus firearm stocks so can't compare that to BLO/Danish oil. What I see from members who do use it, it is very impressive and makes for really bringing the wood's character out. <-- might also be that the Tung crew are just really good/experienced with wood in general, and subsequently would come up with outstanding results regardless of what they used.
The photos have been posted in this thread before and are just to give examples of my Watco Danish oil experience.
Don't know much about its components and exact ingredients but it smells nice. Like home.
The Plumb hammer is a handsome tool and a treasure. I really like what you have done with the handle finishes.
I use BLO and/or Danish oil straight or in a mix. There is a small jar that I keep Danish oil and BLO in. 1 part Watco: 3 parts BLO.
I use Watco Danish Oil. Grew up with it on everything from work benches to picture frames. In all honesty, I am not well-versed in oils/finishes/varnishes but my father always mentioned it having a linseed base. It's what I have around so it's what gets used.
I get varying results from the different mixes:
1. Dry, sanded handle/ no heartwood with Danish oil only as first coat- lighter wood retains light color and the grain is darkened. Hardens the wood and provides a protective finish and shine. Feel like it creates a barrier , seems to keep BLO from soaking in as well, but will with elbow grease. Light sanding helps BLO penetrate and kind of darkens the lighter portions of the wood, resulting in a more BLO color with darkened grain.
Watco first example:
2. Dry, sanded handle with BLO 1:3 mix as first application there is an overall darkening of lighter wood and grain. Darker and "harder" finish than BLO only. No sanding necessary and seems to soak the mix up repeatedly yet not as readily as BLO only.
Watco/BLO example:
Older handles/NOS I usually just use BLO- the idea of bringing out what is already there is appealing. If its birth pre-dates mine and looks good then it doesn't "deserve" altering by the likes of me lol.
Watco straight and the 1/3 mix have had varying effects on heartwood as well - not always predictable. Sometimes it comes out with a reddish, auburn, orbalmond coloring or sometimes darker than the average grain in a handle without heartwood with either applied.
Heartwood example:
Definitely not a "stain master" but since Danish Oil was brought up and it's the only one I use, thought I would share. Your results will vary for sure. Each handle is different in how it takes oils, how porous it is, how you've prepped it, whether you apply them warm or cold, humidity, length of time between applications, and many other things I'm sure.
I've even noticed a difference in color if the axe/handle is placed in direct sunlight to cure/dry right after applications of the Danish oil/BLO mix. It also seems to make almost a harder and shinier finish than not leaving in the sun.
Sun cure example- 1:3 mix only for 4-5 coats, left in the sun on a hot, sunny day, an hour or two in between coats:
*Tung oil seems like a great option but I've only used it on surplus firearm stocks so can't compare that to BLO/Danish oil. What I see from members who do use it, it is very impressive and makes for really bringing the wood's character out. <-- might also be that the Tung crew are just really good/experienced with wood in general, and subsequently would come up with outstanding results regardless of what they used.
The photos have been posted in this thread before and are just to give examples of my Watco Danish oil experience.
Don't know much about its components and exact ingredients but it smells nice. Like home.
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