What did you rehang today?

[Hacked]

Quinton, that hatchet handle came out great! I imagine there was quite a bit of work involved. Thanks for sharing.

 

[quinton]

A Collins boys axe I hung on a HH that was thick as a baseball bat. I think I removed nearly a third of the material.

 

[Agent_H]

Quinton you've been busy. Both those look great! I'll bet your son enjoys the hatchet especially.

 

[the possum]

I finally finished up that mini Craftsman pocket axe. There really isn't much eye to work with on these, but I tried to make the handle big enough to actually get a grip on it. I had to do some serious reprofiling on the edge as well, since it was so thick to start with.

I think I have all my bases covered now in the hatchet category. I can choose from several sizes to suit the situation.

That's the mini Craftsman on bottom of course, then an old Shapleigh Hardware Diamond Edge camp sized hatchet, and a hefty Wetterlings hatchet that I re hafted many years ago.

 

[BG_Farmer]

Quinton,
You are an artist! You too, possum. I like the looks, even if I prefer a straight handle to use!

 

[quinton]

A permabond Plumb that had waaay to short of a haft for the weight of the head. I rehung it on an 18" Link haft that I octagonalized, and put a little belly in to favor the blade side.

 

[quinton]

quinton, killer, both of them. Such nice grain on that hatchet and nice work drawing the pattern, a keeper no question about it.

Amazing work. Both are very nice pieces!

Quinton, that hatchet handle came out great! I imagine there was quite a bit of work involved. Thanks for sharing.

Quinton you've been busy. Both those look great! I'll bet your son enjoys the hatchet especially.

Quinton,
You are an artist! You too, possum. I like the looks, even if I prefer a straight handle to use!

Thanks guys, I appreciate the members of this forum. ALOT of axe knowledge here!

 

[quinton]

The first double bit axe I ever hung. It's a True Temper Flint Edge. I made that haft from a Pignut stave 27 years ago! The axe was given to me back in the 80's by its original owner. The original owner is a family friend who gave me the head when I questioned him about it when I saw it laying haftless in a corner of his garage. He told me It was issued to him in 1937 when he joined the CCC's. He's still kickin' and in his 90's, and asks about the axe every time I see him..

 

[quinton]

Group view of the wedging on the winter projects I have posted, all are cherry except for my son's Plumb on the far left.

 

[Agent_H]

Quinton- can I ask what you use to finish your handles? They have a nice tone and I'm guessing that it's your handiwork that is bringing it it out.

 

[quinton]

Quinton- can I ask what you use to finish your handles? They have a nice tone and I'm guessing that it's your handiwork that is bringing it it out.

When I'm done shaping a sanding a haft, before any finish is applied, I go over it with fine steel wool. Hickory will take on a sheen at this point. I then put on several coats of BLO over a few days to weeks, then I go over them with fine steel wool once more and apply a finish coat. Once you try steel wool, you won't stop!

 

[SC T100]

When I'm done shaping a sanding a haft, before any finish is applied, I go over it with fine steel wool. Hickory will take on a sheen at this point. I then put on several coats of BLO over a few days to weeks, then I go over them with fine steel wool once more and apply a finish coat. Once you try steel wool, you won't stop!

I've used steel wool, as well as the synthetic finishing pads, to polish the grain, and it always works really well. However, I have problems with fine steel wool dust/particles getting lodged in the wood. Do you experience this as well and is it just par for the course with steel wool? Or and I doing something wrong or have poor quality steel wool? I have the stuff from the big box stores.

 

[rjdankert]

. . . However, I have problems with fine steel wool dust/particles getting lodged in the wood. . .

To add my two cents, I've never had this problem with steel wool from the big box stores. I've used a fair amount of steel wool between coats during finishing, including applying paste wax with it. Is your finish completely dry when you use the steel wool?

 

[SC T100]

To add my two cents, I've never had this problem with steel wool from the big box stores. I've used a fair amount of steel wool between coats during finishing, including applying paste wax with it. Is your finish completely dry when you use the steel wool?

Good question...probably not in every case, but yes in some. But I also don't sand my handles past 80 grit or so. Maybe that's the issue?

 

[rjdankert]

. . . But I also don't sand my handles past 80 grit or so. Maybe that's the issue?

That's a good question right back at me. I don't know as I don't remember ever going from a course grit to a finish involving steel wool. Unless someone posts an answer, you could do an experiment on scrap.

 

[the possum]

But I also don't sand my handles past 80 grit or so. Maybe that's the issue?

Yeah, I'd tend to think that's the main problem. With that coarse of a finish, there's still lots of rough little splinters that will grab the steel wool- try going to at least 150 or even 220 grit first, and you shouldn't have near the trouble with the steel wool getting caught in the fibers.

 

[grapeja]

Yeah, I'd tend to think that's the main problem. With that coarse of a finish, there's still lots of rough little splinters that will grab the steel wool- try going to at least 150 or even 220 grit first, and you shouldn't have near the trouble with the steel wool getting caught in the fibers.

I use steel wool on my handles I first use use all the grits and then I use steel wool to make it smooth coat the handle in linseed oil and then when dry I use steel wool again.

 

[Curt Hal]

I have used both steel wool and synthetic finishing pads. I much prefer the synthetic finishing pads. Less messy and more effective between coats. If there is a particularly attractive grain on the handle, I will use up to 600 sandpaper to draw it out before I put on the BLO and the beeswax.

 

[garry3]

The first double bit axe I ever hung. It's a True Temper Flint Edge. I made that haft from a Pignut stave 27 years ago! The axe was given to me back in the 80's by its original owner. The original owner is a family friend who gave me the head when I questioned him about it when I saw it laying haftless in a corner of his garage. He told me It was issued to him in 1937 when he joined the CCC's. He's still kickin' and in his 90's, and asks about the axe every time I see him..

You do very nice work Quinton.
It means a lot to some of the older people to see that you appreciate their tools as much as they do. They can be a wealth of knowledge also. Nice story behind that double bit.

 

[SC T100]

That's a good question right back at me. I don't know as I don't remember ever going from a course grit to a finish involving steel wool. Unless someone posts an answer, you could do an experiment on scrap.

Yeah, I'd tend to think that's the main problem. With that coarse of a finish, there's still lots of rough little splinters that will grab the steel wool- try going to at least 150 or even 220 grit first, and you shouldn't have near the trouble with the steel wool getting caught in the fibers.

I use steel wool on my handles I first use use all the grits and then I use steel wool to make it smooth coat the handle in linseed oil and then when dry I use steel wool again.

I have used both steel wool and synthetic finishing pads. I much prefer the synthetic finishing pads. Less messy and more effective between coats. If there is a particularly attractive grain on the handle, I will use up to 600 sandpaper to draw it out before I put on the BLO and the beeswax.

Awesome...this gives me something to check. Thanks!