What did you rehang today?

garry3 · Mar 12, 2015

cityofthesouth said:
jersey_octagonal by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

jersey_inblock3 by city_ofthe_south, on Flickr

Nice handle. What did you treat it with?

aikonen · Mar 13, 2015

jblyttle said:
I love that knife. I have and use a very serviceable Mora, but am on the verge of picking up a dedicated wood carver. I can't decide if I should buy one as is or buy the blade and make my own handle. Only thing stopping me is the roll your own option costs more. I like the handle on yours.

Mora wood carvers are great knives, I own both the 120 and 106, tend to use the 106 mostly because it's more versatile. I think you should go for both a blade and a factory knife, it's really fun to make handles, can't really go wrong! Thank you and good luck!

aikonen · Mar 13, 2015

garry3 said:
Looking good!
Does your claw hatchet have a pedigree? Is it beveled on both sides?

Interesting contrast between the two. Ones for hewing the line and the other is for carving.

Thank you Garry. I don't know what a pedigree is - I googled it but all I found was dog food. It is beveled on both sides unfortunately.

Yes, they are like brothers, haha. I have made some handles for a hammer or two, I think this birch will hold for a very long time!

jblyttle · Mar 13, 2015

aikonen said:
Mora wood carvers are great knives, I own both the 120 and 106, tend to use the 106 mostly because it's more versatile. I think you should go for both a blade and a factory knife, it's really fun to make handles, can't really go wrong! Thank you and good luck!

Those are the two that I'm looking at. Can't decide which, was thinking the 120 because I already have a longer one that works in the 511. The thing about making one is, Mora sells the exact blades used in the 106 and the 120, but the blade price is the same as the whole knife price.

cityofthesouth · Mar 13, 2015

garry3 said:
Nice handle. What did you treat it with?

A touch of vinegar vat sludge and leather dye for the color/effect, then linseed oil. The vinegar raises the grain like water, so I actually took a blue scotch-brite and rubbed it smooth after.

300Six · Mar 13, 2015

aikonen said:
Thank you Garry. I don't know what a pedigree is - I googled it but all I found was dog food.

Pedigree as a term usually applies to pure-bred dogs/horses/cows/cats and even Royal families, but in the case of manufactured goods means they have traceable origins via stamped identification on them. A tool with no stamps has considerably less collector value than does one with a 'pedigree'.

aikonen · Mar 13, 2015

300Six said:
Pedigree as a term usually applies to pure-bred dogs/horses/cows/cats and even Royal families, but in the case of manufactured goods means they have traceable origins via stamped identification on them. A tool with no stamps has considerably less collector value than does one with a 'pedigree'.

Thank you for the info. This hatchet does not have a stamp or makers mark.

Axe Master '94 · Mar 13, 2015

A Camp Set of C. Hammond 2 pounders- Ohio pattern boys axe & half hatchet with hand octagoned handles. Some of my favorite steel to work with.

300Six · Mar 13, 2015

aikonen said:
Thank you for the info. This hatchet does not have a stamp or makers mark.

"No tickee no laundry" is a classic Chinese Americanism about 'due diligence'. I'm not going to elaborate because "Long time no see", from a prominent Native chief is even more succinct in the English language. An unidentifiable tool usually means unknown quality as a consequence of 'lowest bid', mistakes, factory seconds, lapse in quality control, desire to remain anonymous etc. Conscientious Westerners are usually proud to have their products be identifiable. Granted, huge orders from your WallyWorlds of the world does lower the bar in favour of price over quality and therefore not hard to see why stamps get omitted .

aikonen · Mar 13, 2015

300Six said:
"No tickee no laundry" is a classic Chinese Americanism about 'due diligence'. I'm not going to elaborate because "Long time no see", from a prominent Native chief is even more succinct in the English language. An unidentifiable tool usually means unknown quality as a consequence of 'lowest bid', mistakes, factory seconds, lapse in quality control, desire to remain anonymous etc. Conscientious Westerners are usually proud to have their products be identifiable. Granted, huge orders from your WallyWorlds of the world does lower the bar in favour of price over quality and therefore not hard to see why stamps get omitted .

I agree with you. Sadly, the market for vintage axes and other tools is very limited here in sweden. 9/10 finds are either Wetterlings, GB, or Hults - nothing else. So I was pleased finding this rarity, being in such a workable condition, but when I took the file to the blade it just slided. I'm guessing poor steel and bad heat treatment.

I will sure remember to look for well known manufacturers, or at least a makers mark, while hunting new old tools.

rjdankert · Mar 13, 2015

Axe Master '94 said:
A Camp Set of C. Hammond 2 pounders- Ohio pattern boys axe & half hatchet with hand octagoned handles. . .

Really like the way you've done the handles.:thumbup: How did you make and instal the "cross" wedge? thanks

Axe Master '94 · Mar 13, 2015

rjdankert said:
Really like the way you've done the handles.:thumbup: How did you make and instal the "cross" wedge? thanks

I sawed two cross-kerfs to swallow up small cracks that appeared while fitting, then split my main wedge to fit around them. The crosses go first, then the main wedges. This was my first attempt at a wooden cross (I used to just smash in a steel cross-wedge without kerfing) but I like the look and feel of putting it together this way. It seems like it'll hold up better and longer than the metal ones.

garry3 · Mar 13, 2015

aikonen said:
I agree with you. Sadly, the market for vintage axes and other tools is very limited here in sweden. 9/10 finds are either Wetterlings, GB, or Hults - nothing else. So I was pleased finding this rarity, being in such a workable condition, but when I took the file to the blade it just slided. I'm guessing poor steel and bad heat treatment.

I will sure remember to look for well known manufacturers, or at least a makers mark, while hunting new old tools.

I have had real good luck with no name heads. If it looks good it has always worked out for me.

The file slid across and not biting in? That is normal. There is a oxidation, work hardened layer. Just keep at it and you will go through it. When you get through it you can really begin to do some work on it. It just takes a little work and persistence at first.

rjdankert · Mar 14, 2015

Thanks for the reply. I am definitely going give this a shot.

Axe Master '94 said:
. . .This was my first attempt at a wooden cross . ..

Looks good and tight - good fit with the two halves of the main wedge against the cross wedge.

Axe Master '94 said:
. . .I used to just smash in a steel cross-wedge without kerfing. . .

me too

Hacked · Mar 14, 2015

Mann Edge True American Boys Axe

Hung on a 28" boys axe handle from House Handle. I'm fairly happy with how this one turned out. It feels great in hand.

The last picture is my attempt to show how curvy the handle is. This is surprisingly difficult to capture in a picture. I can only imagine what COTS's handles look like in person.

Curt Hal · Mar 14, 2015

300Six said:
Curious choice of handle. Curved contrary (butt turns up) to the lengthy and argumentative recent thread on this forum espousing the ergonomics and physics of conventional down turned butts. Be interested to hear how they compare (should you also happen to have a conventional hung axe on hand).

Having banged down a lot of hardwood floors over the years (yellow birch, sugar maple and red oak primarily) my recent foray into installing 600 sq ft of 3/4" T&G white ash was interesting. The wood is noticeable lighter and softer than the others. Ash is commonly used for handles in Europe, but not so much here even though n. American hockey sticks/shovel/rake/wheelbarrow handles are (were) nearly always made from ash. If ever you've had the opportunity to direct an axe at an ash firewood round you'll appreciate just how easy the stuff splits. It's for that reason that I am leery of making axe hafts out of that material.

The handle is a Wetterlings broad axe handle that I picked up. The comparison will be interesting.

Agent_H · Mar 14, 2015

Nice curves, thinned down stick, nice upsweep on the swell. The head has a rich patina and the edge looks well-ground and sharp, handle disappears into the eye at the shoulder.

Looks like something that would run well with two hands or just one choked up some. I like this one Hacked, thanks for sharing!

cityofthesouth · Mar 14, 2015

Hacked, I'd be happy with it too. The extra effort is apparent and the swell is nice. Looks like HH set you up good on the grain on that one as well - I can see a single ring that runs nearly the entire length on both sides! That's about as good as it gets.

aikonen · Mar 14, 2015

garry3 said:
I have had real good luck with no name heads. If it looks good it has always worked out for me.

The file slid across and not biting in? That is normal. There is a oxidation, work hardened layer. Just keep at it and you will go through it. When you get through it you can really begin to do some work on it. It just takes a little work and persistence at first.

I'm not too worried about the quality. As you said, persistence is key.

I kept on filing and now it takes an edge very very well, much like the Hultafors.
Thanks for the tip about the hardened layer, I didn't know about that!

Hacked · Mar 14, 2015

Agent_H said:
Nice curves, thinned down stick, nice upsweep on the swell. The head has a rich patina and the edge looks well-ground and sharp, handle disappears into the eye at the shoulder.

Looks like something that would run well with two hands or just one choked up some. I like this one Hacked, thanks for sharing!

Thanks, I took my time fitting this one and slimming down the handle. It really does make a world of difference. The bit needs a little more work to be honest, but it is mostly there. Unfortunately it does have a nasty little chip in it, that I may work out or just let it work itself out over time with sharpening. One way or the other I need some new files before I move forward with my next project, all of mine are shot at this point.

cityofthesouth said:
Hacked, I'd be happy with it too. The extra effort is apparent and the swell is nice. Looks like HH set you up good on the grain on that one as well - I can see a single ring that runs nearly the entire length on both sides! That's about as good as it gets.

Thanks COTS, this means a lot coming from you. Your handles inspired me to start reworking my own.

I paid for the hand select on this one and in this case I think it was worth it. I had no concerns thining the handle out as much as I did. It has an apple seed shape running the length of it. Only thing I will do different in the future is have them leave the lacquer on. I think you end up with a fair bit more wood to work with particularly at the swell.