What is one characteristic or spec from a manufacturer that disqualifies them for you

That's nice. so what are you supposed to train for? ;)
To be fair, that is a trainer knife. It has no blade grind so they cut extra holes in the blade to achieve the exact weight and balance of the actual knife.
But yes, it is still a strange design:D
 
wont ever buy from BOKER or CRKT and other brands that make there knives with crappy quality in china.
i wont buy most Chinese made knives, unless they are high quality and original designed (for example high quality and original designs from Reate, Rike, WE, and very few others are some of the best. these are the only ones ill buy).

i also wont buy most Benchmade due to they are way too expensive knives for questionable quality that you get from them. they have great service so unless its something i really really want i wont buy it, but if i do, i know i can send it in for them to resolve the problem. i would buy a 940-1 & 484-1 again and again tho, even with the issues, and just send it to them for repairing them, thats annoying but you do what ya got to do right.
 
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Will not buy anything that weighs more than 3.5 ozs, tip down designs, knives w/out lanyard holes, blade lengths longer than 3.5 inches, steel handled knives, anything by CRKT.
 
I can't honestly say that there isn't any one spec or characteristic that puts me off any particular manufacturer these days. I've found things I like/dislike from many and still have no issue buying product if the interest is there.
Interestingly, in the past I'd sworn off a few manufacturers like Emerson due to QC issues and warranty repair headaches but now find that the quality is better and customer service has greatly improved.
For me it boils down to interest and/or need.
 
That's nice. so what are you supposed to train for? ;)[quote name="Skywalker1" post=16620958]To be fair, that is a trainer knife. It has no blade grind so they cut extra holes in the blade to achieve the exact weight and balance of the actual knife.
But yes, it is still a strange design:D

With all due to respect Google is your friend. Search P'kal

Will start you here with some very basics:
https://youtu.be/6Sk7B-XXCJY

Application, training & techniques of this philosophy run deep.

Spyderco recently released the Reverse, a fixed blade version that provides one knife that can be configured by owner to be conventional or reverse.

Regards,
 
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I think the biggest thing for me is materials vs cost being too far out of whack. I could never see paying $50 for AUS-8.
 
I will not buy knives that are either misrepresented as to what they are, or are given an overly vague technical description by the company producing them. I generally will not write off entire companies for having lower-end offerings that fit the above description, but if 99%+ of the product line is questionable, I will not touch it.

I consider Honesty to be the best policy when it comes to selling products. I hate when companies buy the legal rights to old brand names such as Camillus and Schrade, ship all the production to China, change the steel used to some version of 440A, and then try to pass their product off as the same thing that was being sold in the 1970's.

I also think it is particularly low when companies such as M-Tech market garbage knives to emergency personnel and soldiers.
 
Price is the main deterrent for me. Once a knife hits around the $200 mark(at most), any increases in tolerances or whatnot are gonna be so miniscule that they're undetectable without specialized instruments and make absolutely no practical difference, so knives like CRK and Hinderer essentially come down to paying for the name and "prestige of ownership" rather than any actual increase in quality, which makes them a no go for me. Not saying they're bad knives, they're just not worth the price to me as I can get literally the exact same level of performance(if not better) from a good Spyderco.

Other things I might dislike, but most aren't deal breakers. I normally want a decent steel, but I'll buy an occasional cheap 440A knife(like those $4 Walmart knives from a year or so back) to leave in the glove box and side compartments in the car, carry with me if I'm going to a concert or something where I don't know if knives are allowed or not(so if it gets confiscated, no big deal), loan to friends, etc. I dislike opening holes, but it hasn't stopped me from buying multiple Spydercos. Not a fan of metal handles, but I have several Leeks, a Skyline with aftermarket Ti scales, and a couple of others. Prefer plain edges(and full serrated edges for that matter) to combo edges, but I have a couple combo edged blades around...really, price is the main deal breaker for me.

Oh, and prior bad experience. I won't buy another MTech folder as every one I've tried has suffered a wide variety of issues, including poor lockup and lock failures, massive blade play, etc. So now, even if I'm in the market for a super cheap folder, I won't go for an MTech. Oddly enough, I've had some good experience with their fixed blades, so I'm still willing to pick them up, if I'm looking to pick up a new budget fixed blade, but the folders are a total skip for me.

I agree that your Spydercos may perform as well or better than a CRK. I would argue however that the tighter tolerances and overall higher quality of a CRK are easily detectable and IMO totally worth the price they command.
 
Tip up only clip is the biggest disqualifier for me.
 
So, they can't be:
-Big
-Small
-Serrated
-CRKT
-Boker
-Hinderer
-Strider
-Made in China or Pakistan
-Benchmade
-Spyderco
-Coated blades
-Tip up clips
-Ganzo
-Mantis
-Expensive
-Hollow grind
-Buck
-Zero Tolerance
-Cold Steel
-Thick blades or handles
-Great Eastern Cutlery
-Thumb studs
-Waved
-Frame-lock
-Recurved blade
-Liner lock
-Lock-back
-Flippers
-Bearings
-Stainless steel
-Bead-blasted blades
-Two-hand opening
-Skulls

Surprised any knives get sold. :D
 
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So, they can't be:
-Big
-Small
-Serrated
-CRKT
-Boker
-Hinderer
-Strider
-Made in China or Pakistan
-Benchmade
-Spyderco
-Coated blades
-Tip up clips
-Ganzo
-Mantis
-Expensive
-Hollow grind
-Buck
-Zero Tolerance
-Cold Steel
-Thick blades or handles
-Great Eastern Cutlery
-Thumb studs
-Waved
-Frame-lock
-Recurved blade
-Liner lock
-Lock-back

Surprised any knives get sold. :D
Please add these to that great list ya got there ROFLOL ...

Flippers
Bearings

I have a working thumb, have no need for either of these "features".

Hard to imagine not already mentioned 10-pages deep into a thread ;-)


Also, I second all previous posts related to STOLEN VALOR used to market knives, tools etc.
Especially, when preying on our young service men, who are not old enough to remember or know the history. Quite disgracefully.

Regards,
 
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Please add these to that great list ya got there:

Flippers
Bearings

I have a working thumb, have no need for either of these "features".

Funny enough, the knife in my hand right now has a flipper and bearings.
It is also a frame-lock by Zero Tolerance...

Beside me are a couple of Emersons, and a Spyderco and a Boker on the desk in front of me.

Oh, and a Benchmade training knife (used for training in martial arts knife defenses, for those who wondered what "training" was).

I'm just chock-full of features people can't stand. :D
 
Funny enough, the knife in my hand right now has a flipper and bearings.
It is also a frame-lock by Zero Tolerance...

Beside me are a couple of Emersons, and a Spyderco and a Boker on the desk in front of me.

Oh, and a Benchmade training knife (used for training in martial arts knife defenses, for those who wondered what "training" was).

I'm just chock-full of features people can't stand. :D
Same here for me ... but, I have learned lessons that cost me money (and I'm ok with those lessons). As for bearings and flippers (per your comments and knives we already own) , I simply need to pick up my Fellhoelter/Williamsen to enjoy Flipper/Bearings after a few open/closes, then pull from my pocket my K2 to understand why I choose not to buy Flippers & Bearing knives ... (simply in no need of features that otherwise potentially compromise performance, from my perspective).

It is really hard for me to resist buying an Advocate (Bradley Tac1s). But I may, regardless just to experiment with exchanging out the bearings for bushings (getting rid of the flipper goes w/o second thought). I think it could really fit me in this altered configuration.

Think I go outside now with a couple trainers and work out on my heavy bags ;-)

EDIT: I will admit, there is one knife (Zero Tolerance even, flipper even) that I truly feel I missed the boat acquiring, by less than 1-week ;-( . That trip-7 in the $320 range (could had one for $290-ish. I already had my Fellhoelter and I hesitated, because of the features discussed here and really feel I truly missed out :-(

stabman, hopefully we can still be friends :-)

Regards,
 
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1. Two hand function: I won't touch anything that needs more than one hand for opening and closing.

2. Recurves: as yet, I've only invested in bench stones and I haven't figured out how to sharpen inside a recurve using a flat surface. All pro tips for this are much appreciated though!

3. Handle thickness: I'll rarely put anything in my pocket if it's more than 0.45" thick.

4. Weight:
Weight. Every oz counts to me. Doesn't matter how good the materials are, how well made, how "cool" they look, or how many people swear by them. Hinderer, most ZTs, Strider, a lot of midtechs, and customs. If it cant match or come close to what I already own, pass. 3.5" blade over 4.5oz, nope. 3" blade over 3.5oz, nope. +.5oz will be considered, but over? No way.
Couldn't have said it better myself. Heavy knives and gym shorts don't mix. Maybe some day I will have a set of summer knives and and a set of winter knives... not yet though.
 
So, they can't be:
[...]

That's if you want to sell a knife to literally everyone.

That would be a fun thought experiment: can you design a real knife (including its features, materials, price) that the highest fraction of BFC knife nuts would buy?

I wonder what design would win.
 
That's if you want to sell a knife to literally everyone.

That would be a fun thought experiment: can you design a real knife (including its features, materials, price) that the highest fraction of BFC knife nuts would buy?

I wonder what design would win.

GREAT thought!

History is a good teacher.
A look back ... and,
I would vote it a fixed-blade.

My first knife was a fixed blade.
My second a folder.
Still have that fixed-blade, and still gets used from time to time ;-)

Someday ..., hope to find that folder in some archived box.

Regards,
 
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