What is one characteristic or spec from a manufacturer that disqualifies them for you

[REVDH]

Wedgy grinds and overbuilt knives. A knife is a cutting tools not a damn prybar

 

[Velitrius]

The updated list.

So, they can't be:
-Big
-Small
-Serrated
-CRKT
-Boker
-Hinderer
-Strider
-Made in China or Pakistan
-Benchmade
-Spyderco
-Coated blades
-Tip up clips
-Ganzo
-Mantis
-Expensive
-Hollow grind
-Buck
-Zero Tolerance
-Cold Steel
-Thick blades or handles
-Great Eastern Cutlery
-Thumb studs
-Waved
-Frame-lock
-Recurved blade
-Liner lock
-Lock-back
-Flippers
-Bearings
-Stainless steel
-Bead-blasted blades
-Two-hand opening
-Skulls

Thank heavens... my good ol' Mora Companion is still GOOD TO GO! (Unless I missed something there)

 

[stabman]

Thank heavens... my good ol' Mora Companion is still GOOD TO GO! (Unless I missed something there)

So far it's safe...but the thread isn't finished yet.

 

[PuddleMonkey]

Fixed blades made in Sweden are a no go.

 

[stabman]

Fixed blades made in Sweden are a no go.

It was just a matter of time.

 

[ocnLogan]

But my svörd peasant is still good!

 

[jdm61]

You forgot "deployable", clunky/square, metal handled and tacticool.

 

[timichango]

Dunno what it is, and no offense to Ken onion, but I don't like his blades. They're probably great, but to my eye they just look like weird squiggly sweet potatoes.

Expressed as a feature: no arbitrarily weird lumpy/wavy blade shapes.

This doesn't discount a good recurve when appropriate though.

 

[BladeScout]

Wont buy no knives from stolen valor felon scumbags - so no Burger knives.

No knives from pretenders either - so no HEST.

Same goes for any knife by Marfione, Bark River or tacticlol companies like Mantis and Quartermaster et al.

No nightmare grinds or 'Tracker-like' knives.

No useless overbuilt idiotic clown knives in the vein of Medfords.

 

[BladeScout]

Hhhmmmm, still not sure if I can get over how weird they look. Much of their catalogue looks too samey. I've been collecting knives for 12 days, I'm sure a lot of my tastes will change with time.


Colorado based, right? They may need to have their pot intake restricted.

You need to know the background of the P'Kal before posting - here you go:
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=267

The trainer you posted a pic of:
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=306

I thought your comments quaint at first, but must admit the 'pretend ignorance' (?) is grating a tiny bit (so maybe you achieved what you came for?)

 

[BladeScout]

Emerson Wave is something I cannot cope with. Spyderco isn't disqualified for me yet, but I'm having troubles understanding the giant hole in the blade and why people put zip ties and nuts on them.

I used to not care much for Emerson knives ... that is, before buying a waved knife. You need to handle one and then make up your mind. The wave works a charm and makes sense, if you want to get your knife in action fast and one handed. They will eat your jeans though ;-)
Emersons are brutes and a tad overpriced but they work.

The zip ties and nuts we can agree on - thats is ridiculous and silly beyond belief. Somebody complained about the weight of knives but straps zip ties and ginormous bolts to his knives.
Pretty sure many here find that absurd.

 

[Gaston444]

No fixed blade edges over 0.030" thick at the shoulders.

This eliminates most choppers and "Survival Knives", especially the beefier Busse, which go all the way to 0.070", even on something as small as a Team Gemini Light Brigade. I avoid in particular everything done by Vaughn Neeley, which typically are also around 0.060".

You can actually hear that kind of edge geometry in Youtube videos: The blade goes "pat-pat-pat", and the progress is painfully slow... It is just absurd.

Even the Chris Reeve one piece range are 0.040", and don't quite make it. In fact very few large knives are under 0.030". I consider 0.020" close to ideal for large choppers, but perhaps 0.025" is perfect for some extra stiffness at around 12-15 per side...

Also I have tried CPM 154 CM and S30V on big choppers, and both steels did not work well for chopping, making tiny micro-folds that most users probably do not detect...; Many cheap old steels do not do this, like good 440 or D-2... I rub the nail insistently to the edge on a variety of angles, to make sure I detect the slightest micro-fold... Based on those two steel I experienced, I absolutely nix any steels that are based on the CPM process for choppers, but on a dagger, or even a folder, I don't really care.

Gaston

 

[BladeScout]

.....here we go again.

 

[grogimus]

Any knife with a scandi grind as a selling point. My favorite scandi ground knife was a Mora that 42Blades reground to a full flat grind.

 

[Mecha]

You need to know the background of the P'Kal before posting - here you go:
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=267

The trainer you posted a pic of:
http://www.spyderco.com/catalog/details.php?product=306

I thought your comments quaint at first, but must admit the 'pretend ignorance' (?) is grating a tiny bit (so maybe you achieved what you came for?)

Oh, so it's a knife fighting stye that uses the the same grip as "enraged spouse with a steak knife" technique, but with a smaller knife. Got it. :thumbup:

 

[Mecha]

-snip-

Also I have tried CPM 154 CM and S30V on big choppers, and both steels did not work well for chopping, making tiny micro-folds that most users probably do not detect...; Many cheap old steels do not do this, like good 440 or D-2... I rub the nail insistently to the edge on a variety of angles, to make sure I detect the slightest micro-fold... Based on those two steel I experienced, I absolutely nix any steels that are based on the CPM process for choppers, but on a dagger, or even a folder, I don't really care.

Gaston

The world Bladesport cutting champion makes swords out of CPM 3V that can chop a 2x4 in half in one swing.

 

[353]

Striders or any other tactical knife.

To be honest I'm really picky when it comes to knives and not too many gets past my screening. I'll off course have to like the look(most knives stop right here). Then it's materials and craftsmanship, fit and finnish, sheath quality. I also check out a bunch of online reviews, pictures vids etc.

 

[whp]

No assisted opening. No flippers that can t be opened with a stud or hole or groove by thumb. And no waves.

 

[ThePeacent]

Oh, do you need your blades to be extra light so that you can zip-tie more nuts and bolts to them?

I used to not care much for Emerson knives ... that is, before buying a waved knife. You need to handle one and then make up your mind. The wave works a charm and makes sense, if you want to get your knife in action fast and one handed. They will eat your jeans though ;-)
Emersons are brutes and a tad overpriced but they work.

The zip ties and nuts we can agree on - thats is ridiculous and silly beyond belief. Somebody complained about the weight of knives but straps zip ties and ginormous bolts to his knives.
Pretty sure many here find that absurd.

Nobody complains about the weight,m but a bit of thought on the subject might bring the next question to mind pretty quick:
A 6" blade folder that weigs 6 oz. + a 0.5 oz. nut = 6.5 oz.
That 6in. blade weighing 9 oz. + a 0.5 oz. is 9.5 oz., that's 3 oz. more, or the entire weight of a second folder (i.e. Pacific Salt at 3 oz, or Tasman Salt + nut at 2.8 oz.)

 

[jill jackson]

Gotta factor in the nut weight. Manufacturers should take that into consideration and list their knives weight with nuts. Nuttless : 5.5 oz., Nutted 6 oz., that would simplify things a bit.