Whatcha got on order? (Traditional Knives Only)

amber bone & yellow delrin case caplifters should be in the po box tomorrow.......
jerryd have you took the plunge yet?????? :rolleyes:
 
Found a Kabar 2502 on an obscure site.
The pattern was made from 1985-1996 according the Kabar web site.
I'm a fan of equal end knives and these days they are hard to find.

Here's a pic from another site to give an idea of the pattern. The one I bought is not engraved. The wood covers have seen some mileage, but the blades appeared to be almost full.

vintage-kabar-2502-pen-knife-pocket-engraved-ervan-af9a29ed5b170b134a3044512da3f47d.jpg
 
I'm eyeballin the #72 Grizzly. For all those who received a #72, is there any verticle play on lockup?

I have 2 #83's and both have verticle play. It actually bugs me when I hold the blade and do a "ring the bell motion vertically" and I hear clicking sounds. Is that repairable?

Anyways. the Grizzly is still beckoning but need more G2 on the lockup before I pull the trigger.
 
4thpoint said:
I'm eyeballin the #72 Grizzly. For all those who received a #72, is there any verticle play on lockup?

I have 2 #83's and both have verticle play. It actually bugs me when I hold the blade and do a "ring the bell motion vertically" and I hear clicking sounds. Is that repairable?

Anyways. the Grizzly is still beckoning but need more G2 on the lockup before I pull the trigger.
Click to expand...

I just talked to Tyler from KSF this morning while ordering a 72 Grizzly cut. He confirmed there is a bit of play with the current batch. My 83 is actually rock solid. I have a 99 with slight up / down play, but really doesn't bother me. Certainly hasn't affected performance. I'm stoked for the 72.
 
4thpoint said:
I'm eyeballin the #72 Grizzly. For all those who received a #72, is there any verticle play on lockup?

I have 2 #83's and both have verticle play. It actually bugs me when I hold the blade and do a "ring the bell motion vertically" and I hear clicking sounds. Is that repairable?

Anyways. the Grizzly is still beckoning but need more G2 on the lockup before I pull the trigger.
Click to expand...
I just checked mine and it has just a tiny bit of vertical play, (micro). Not a problem for me but it's there.
 
RobbW said:
That is gorgeous!!! How's the fit & finish and overall quality?
Click to expand...

I've only just ordered it today. I'll give a full report when it comes in on Wed. The Queen City version that I picked up at their open house is fantastic, so my hopes are high.
 
Liked my amber and yellow caplifters so well when I got them today that I turned around and ordered one in the kirinite also.

:thumbup:
 
I have had some 77 Barlows on order for a long time.
...
Then I saw the Eureka Jack in steel so I had to buy that.
...
For today I just had a weak moment and also ordered a 72 in OD Green because I wanted to see how their lock backs were. I recently talked a coworker into his first GEC purchase with a stag 72 was showing him the pictures this morning and it got me thinking.

I am so so weak. At least I can cut them loose if I don't love them when they come in.
 
RobbW said:
That is gorgeous!!! How's the fit & finish and overall quality?
Click to expand...

KBA said:
Those certainly are an attractive stockman Cory. Ive eyed them on several of an occasion. Love the look of that stag bone.
Click to expand...

My cattle king came in a day early, which impressed me quite a bit. I ordered it Monday afternoon and it arrived at my door Tuesday morning. I can't overstate how much the Knives Ship Free team impresses me each time I order from them.

As for the knife itself, it's fantastic. The bone is beautiful. Either mine is darker than the one pictured on the site or they had it under some intense light. Either way, I'm thrilled with it. Around the edges it has a mottled look not unlike Case's appaloosa bone. The sawcut bone on the Queen City has the same effect. It's a really neat effect and it should improve with age. All around the bone seems like the type that will just get better and better the more it's carried.

The fit and finish is everything I'd hoped it would be. There was a little blade rub, which isn't surprising for a stockman, but I was able to correct it and now none of the blades rub at all. This is also true of my Queen City. There are no noticeable gaps in the backsprings. There is a bit of a gap between one of the covers and the scale, but not too bad. Overall, I'd say that my Queen Cattle Kings are the two best stockmen I've owned to date.
 
That's great to hear. Thanks Cory!

I love Queen's D2 and I'm excited to hear fit and finish is improving. I'm curious: how did you tweak the blade rub?
 
Gec 92 "out for delivery," can't wait!

Here it is! I love it, even though it's not perfect. The springs are a bit proud at the half stop, but so what?

RYf86uJ.jpg
 
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RobbW said:
I'm curious: how did you tweak the blade rub?
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At the 14:37 mark of this video you can see Bill Howard fix the centering on a blade. He has what he calls a kick press that puts pressure on the tang, which is softened for this task, and that kinks the blade so that it's centered in the frame.

[video=youtube;xA-OpahW7EA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA-OpahW7EA[/video]

I don't have that press, but a while ago I had a knife with a blade that was rubbing the liner and I decided to see if I could simulate that process myself. What I did is put the blade into a padded vise so that the whole blade except for the tang is in the jaws of the vise. Then I push or pull the knife in the direction that would bend the blade to where I want it to be. It took a bit of practice to get a feel for how much pressure to apply, but I've gotten to be OK at it to where I usually don't have to go back and bend it the other way because I went to far anymore. This will loosen up the joint, so then I close the blade and put that end of the knife in the vise with a gapper inserted next to the blade tang and give it a squeeze to tighten it back up a bit. Then I usually have to hit the bolsters with some sandpaper because the pin is now showing.

It's not a really tough process, but it is a bit more involved than filing down the kick or something like that. I'm just a stickler for blade rub, and there was a knife I really liked other than the blade rub so I took a chance and it worked out. Now I can center the blades on most knives without too much stress. Some knives seem to have a tang that's just wonky and when I squeeze the bolster back together the blade moves back to being off-center again. I don't mind an off-center blade as long as it's not rubbing. I can usually at least get them to not rub. I'm sure there's a better way of doing all of this, but this is the method I came up with and it's worked for me.
 
Cory Hess said:
At the 14:37 mark of this video you can see Bill Howard fix the centering on a blade. He has what he calls a kick press that puts pressure on the tang, which is softened for this task, and that kinks the blade so that it's centered in the frame.

[video=youtube;xA-OpahW7EA]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xA-OpahW7EA[/video]

I don't have that press, but a while ago I had a knife with a blade that was rubbing the liner and I decided to see if I could simulate that process myself. What I did is put the blade into a padded vise so that the whole blade except for the tang is in the jaws of the vise. Then I push or pull the knife in the direction that would bend the blade to where I want it to be. It took a bit of practice to get a feel for how much pressure to apply, but I've gotten to be OK at it to where I usually don't have to go back and bend it the other way because I went to far anymore. This will loosen up the joint, so then I close the blade and put that end of the knife in the vise with a gapper inserted next to the blade tang and give it a squeeze to tighten it back up a bit. Then I usually have to hit the bolsters with some sandpaper because the pin is now showing.

It's not a really tough process, but it is a bit more involved than filing down the kick or something like that. I'm just a stickler for blade rub, and there was a knife I really liked other than the blade rub so I took a chance and it worked out. Now I can center the blades on most knives without too much stress. Some knives seem to have a tang that's just wonky and when I squeeze the bolster back together the blade moves back to being off-center again. I don't mind an off-center blade as long as it's not rubbing. I can usually at least get them to not rub. I'm sure there's a better way of doing all of this, but this is the method I came up with and it's worked for me.
Click to expand...

Ah yes, that is what they did for my modified 48! Patty took it the press and fixed it right up. The blade had developed some rub after the modification, and was almost uncarryable because of how close it came to the liners. I actually didnt know they would touch modified knives, but I was talking to some of the folks at the rendezvous and they said it doesnt hurt to ask. A few moments in the shop and it was all fixed. She even asked if I was happy with the centering, cause if not, shed take back down there until it was perfect. All I wanted was that it wouldnt touch the liner when I take the blade out or have to gingerly put it back.
 
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