What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Lorien said:
it's Ecoflow water stain. It looks a lot better after hot waxing
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Ah, so that's post wax. Ibget the same thing with snoseal.. can't judge the final color until waxed.

Still interested in the specific color though :) I find the eco flow dyes don't apply as evenly as the alchohol based dyes. For black, alchohol based is a must imho.
 
sorry, no those straps are pre waxed.
it's just medium brown. I splotch it on with a swab, for black it takes 2 or 3 applications and comes out pretty even. Well, as even as you can get with hide
 
Been working on this "V44" style bowie in 1/4" 8670. Heat treated to 59, then tang drawn down more. Vintage natural canvas micarta for the guard and pommel; pommel will have a 1/4" hole for a 1/4" stainless steel lanyard tube to anchor everything. Leather washers were cut on the laser, soaked in water for a few minutes, compressed and are now drying out. White/black/double orange/black/white G10 spacer stacks. Blade was almost fully flat ground and then convexed and polished up to 600 grit felt backed belt and then 800 SiC Cork belt with Black Magic buffing compound on it, which gives a nice, bright shiny satin finish.

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Taz said:
Been working on this "V44" style bowie in 1/4" 8670. Heat treated to 59, then tang drawn down more. Vintage natural canvas micarta for the guard and pommel; pommel will have a 1/4" hole for a 1/4" stainless steel lanyard tube to anchor everything. Leather washers were cut on the laser, soaked in water for a few minutes, compressed and are now drying out. White/black/double orange/black/white G10 spacer stacks. Blade was almost fully flat ground and then convexed and polished up to 600 grit felt backed belt and then 800 SiC Cork belt with Black Magic buffing compound on it, which gives a nice, bright shiny satin finish.

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Cant wait to see this finished..👍
 
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bladegrinder said:
I’m pretty good at tolerating it, I worked outdoors in Florida for over 40 years but I start shivering when it hits 50 around here.
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Same here. My wife likes the house at 67 at night and I freeze. I’ve been a mechanic for over 15 years now and like it between 85-100…when it gets above that, I start sweating too much and get miserable…unless it’s in front of the forge and it’s dry heat…then it feels good. I know I’m strange like that
 
Finished a small chef's knife for my daughter-in-law today. Experimenting with laser engraving and first time using this handle material. It's called "Dymalux" laminated wood. I like the look. Don't know how it will hold up to normal use. I guess she'll find out. :)

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I found Dymalux very soft and splintery to work with and dull color wise, so I only used it on a couple knives. LibertyWood is MUCH harder and has more vibrant colors and the grain won't raise up if it's boiled. Less splintery too.
 
Taz said:
I found Dymalux very soft and splintery to work with and dull color wise, so I only used it on a couple knives. LibertyWood is MUCH harder and has more vibrant colors and the grain won't raise up if it's boiled. Less splintery too.
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Thanks. That's good to know.
 
Same here, diamondwood, Dymalux, etc. is not one of my preferred handle materials. There are other laminated woods that work better. Pakkawood is a bit better.

I find it hard to beat micarta and its cousins for knife handles. It comes in layered forms that give the look you have, but is much more durable and, IMHO, easier to work with. Ultrex micarta in two-color looks great and is pretty foolproof. Or, try some Ultrex Suretough G10 and you will be amazed at how good the grip is plus the look of layered colors. USA Knifemakers and most knife suppliers carry it.
 
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