What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Just received my batch of custom burner parts. Single piece orifices and 3/8" flares.
I had to have the flare fitting made out of steel so I could weld them to the burner tubes.
The 1" single ended 1/8" nipple is easier to wrench on and the wider nipple allows me to use it on different size burner tubes.
Much cleaner looking than the old model.

newold.jpg
 
I used the 100K you gave me on a mini forge I built for demos and hammer-ins. Great piece o kit, Charles. See you at Blade!
 
Its a beautiful day here on Cape Breton Island. Its a balmy 10 degrees, the sun is shining, the ice is finally breaking up and leaving the harbour, and I got to spend a few hour in the forge this morning.









Artsy fartsy black and white shots:








Have a great day!!

-Peter
 
Cool pics Peter. Nice clean looking forging. :thumbup:
One thing I noticed right away was you have gloves on both hands......which would be normal I suppose, but I never wear a glove on the hammer hand while forging. I do when welding Damascus billets(flying flux landing on my bare hands tends to break my concentration:p) but I find I have more control without the glove for forging to shape.
Darcy:)
 
Almost finished processing, thought this picture would better convey the amount of work I've done. Each brass plug has to have a .0225" hole drilled in it. Some plugs for the 100k burners get a .042" hole drilled.
982 1/8" NPT to 3/8" Flare 45° connectors
1000 1/8" brass plugs 1" long
burnerparts.jpg
 
DEllis said:
Cool pics Peter. Nice clean looking forging. :thumbup:
One thing I noticed right away was you have gloves on both hands......which would be normal I suppose, but I never wear a glove on the hammer hand while forging. I do when welding Damascus billets(flying flux landing on my bare hands tends to break my concentration:p) but I find I have more control without the glove for forging to shape.
Darcy:)
Click to expand...

I agree with Darcy. Your hand will fatigue much quicker with a glove, too. If your hand is getting hotspots from the hammer, you need to address your grip and handle. After that, if you still need to wear a glove, try one of the dexterous "Machanix" type or even a golfing glove. They are much less bulky and grip inhibiting.
 
Lovely Kitchen set PEU!

My son Kevin, who is our bread maker requested a new bread knife; this is what I made.

It is forged from W2 steel. The hamon was produced using Brownells anti scale compound instead of clay. The handle is lacewood and hairy oak with copper. The OAL is 14 1/2 inches.

N3ag1iFuiuVAX3LJ15OWBzJxvGmBqrsnUzXHLr6ySGM=w777-h327-no

20150416_011119.jpg
 
Is that a really long fillet knife PEU? Nice set! I really love that micarta.

52100 blade I'm working on.
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Thanks guys, yes long fillet knife, it bends 90 degrees no problem.
Published some micarta colors at ebay yesterday, but price with shipping is a little high IMHO...

Today I finished this necker

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Pablo
 
Palbo,
What type of steel did you use on the hone? I have been thinking of making some but didn't know if it needed to be hardened. Beautiful work by the way!
 
Fred.Rowe said:
Lovely Kitchen set PEU!

My son Kevin, who is our bread maker requested a new bread knife; this is what I made.

It is forged from W2 steel. The hamon was produced using Brownells anti scale compound instead of clay. The handle is lacewood and hairy oak with copper. The OAL is 14 1/2 inches.

N3ag1iFuiuVAX3LJ15OWBzJxvGmBqrsnUzXHLr6ySGM=w777-h327-no

20150416_011119.jpg
Click to expand...

Beautiful! how thick is it?
 
That's pretty awesome Fred! That style of handle has always intrigued me, is there a good tutorial on here somewhere that explains the process?
 
Daniel Rohde said:
Beautiful! how thick is it?
Click to expand...

Thank you! I forged four blades in the same run and they were all thin, really to thin before heat treat. This one is .094 at the handle/spine junction. I have a set of 3/4 x 3 x 12 inch aluminum plates mounted on a pattern makers vise which can be adjusted to fit the distal taper and align with the bevels as well. This helped to keep the blades straight after coming out of the Parks 50. I'll try to keep them closer to .125 on the next run. I made this to slice bread and being this thin made for a wonderful slicing experience. It slides through hot bread. :)

h20oni said:
That's pretty awesome Fred! That style of handle has always intrigued me, is there a good tutorial on here somewhere that explains the process?
Click to expand...

Thank you! I've always built hidden tang knives but have just started making this style knife, I'm still learning. I hope someone with more experience than I puts together a tutorial on the subject.
I do like making these because they are a knife made to be used daily and thats what knives should be made for, to work.

Fred
 
Stevenj369 said:
Palbo,
What type of steel did you use on the hone? I have been thinking of making some but didn't know if it needed to be hardened. Beautiful work by the way!
Click to expand...

Steven, the hone can be any steel that can be hardened and tempered above 60~62RC, even an old round file with the teeth wiped out works fine. I made them out of 02 and also W1.

One trick if you want a minimum texture on them is to attach to a portable drill and run it at full speed against a running 36 grit belt, then you smooth it a bit with a 240 band.

BTW... another day another kitchen knife

69pOCBN.jpg



Pablo
 
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