What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Looking good guys! :thumbup:

Finally got a 3C collet set for my Southbend lathe.

3C_collets_Southbend1.JPG


And the very nice gentleman who sold it to me was kind enough to include a few more goodies, this threading dial amongst them.

threading_dial_southbend1.JPG


I am pretty sure it is for an older model lathe but it looks like it could be made to work on this one.

threading_dial_southbend2.JPG


If any of you guys know more about this I'd really appreciate any help you can provide.

Oh and I finally finished a knife. :eek: The small bowie I posted earlier.

ejector01.jpg


http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1129400-Small-Bowie-The-Ejector
 
Patrice,

Is that a small 9" lathe, or a very old one, that style lever on the apron with the old star knob clutch seem to say both. What is it you want to know about the thread dial housing? I have a 9", 10", and a 16". I am pretty sure I could sketch the dimensions for you if you like.

Nice collet set. They make octagon collet holders for making you own pin punches and such from octagonal stock steel too. I got really excited when I saw those.
 
Ron, it is a circa 1964 9A. I was wondering if I could use this older type threading dial on my lathe?
I sadly only have one octagonal collet but will surely look for more.

Eric and Willie, thanks for the good words about the knife.
 
Patrice Lemée;12889646 said:
Ron, it is a circa 1964 9A. I was wondering if I could use this older type threading dial on my lathe?
I sadly only have one octagonal collet but will surely look for more.

Eric and Willie, thanks for the good words about the knife.
Click to expand...

Patrice,

As long as the tooth count is compatible, then yes, you should be just fine. The only concern is that the drive gear on the thread indicator is of the proper height and pitch to ride cleanly on the drive screw. Bolt it up so it is gently engaged with the drive screw.

Chuck up a bolt or something of known thread count, and then set your thread count accordingly on the lathe. Put in some tool that you can index to ride along the bolt threads as a visual indicator.

Wait until the dial hits any given number, then engage the threading lever on that count. Ride alongside the bolt threads with your visual indicator tool to make sure that you have the right setting on the lathe.

Then, go out of gear and retract the saddle/tool. Wait until that count appears on the threading dial again, then engage again on the same count. If you're following the threads, you're golden. Maybe once/twice more to confirm on different counts. If not, the gear could be the wrong tooth count for that gearbox/drive screw pitch.

My gut is you should be fine, but still check it out.



Strigamort said:
Ian, you're killin it. I can't wait to see your future work. Hope you're feeling better! Chemical inhalation is no joke, hopefully it wasn't the wood!
Click to expand...

Thanks. :)

I can't wait to do some more work. Right now I'm waiting on materials (again).

I'm pretty sure it was the spray. I've worked with the silky oak before, and it didn't bother me at all. At least I hope not, because that stuff turns out awesome.
 
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Been watching this thread. Great thread but I'm unable to post pictures. It says below that I may not post attachments. Just wondering why?
However I am in shop today heat treating knives and put another batch of wood that I'm stabilizing into oven for curing. Also filled my vessel with new wood to stabilize as well.
Jim
 
Boatbuilder said:
Been watching this thread. Great thread but I'm unable to post pictures. It says below that I may not post attachments. Just wondering why?
However I am in shop today heat treating knives and put another batch of wood that I'm stabilizing into oven for curing. Also filled my vessel with new wood to stabilize as well.
Jim
Click to expand...

Your membership may have expired.

registered members have to use photobucket or something like that to post a photo.
 
Holy heck that was fun, just forged two small bars of 1095 and 15n20 into twist damascus. One was doubled up to equal 12 layers before the twist and the other just 6. Doesnt sound like much but it was all by hand (anvil and hand hammer). Its fun but I am not sure if I will be doing that again soon. Ill post pics later once I get one or both cleaned up and see what Ive got.

So any pointers for twisting damascus. By the time I got it in the vice and the wrench on it it seemed to cool at the ends which wouldnt allow them to twist as easily so the middle did but lost about a couple inches off each end. Do you guys just make them long enough to account for this.
 
2013 was a productive year for us and a fairly healthy one as well. My son and I installed an anodizing line with twin 20 gallon acid baths. In the same building, where I used to raise beagles, we installed hot bluing tanks.
We applied for a second patent, this one is for a knife sharpener.

I did manage to finish up a couple of damascus pieces I've been working on over the last year. https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-9iAmNxm9WuA/UpDwHBv6LII/AAAAAAAAEO8/CL3eW
c7Q3OY/s512/DSC02152.JPG.
DSC02017.JPG

Its been hard to find shop time at least for knife making this year.

A good thread with a lot of interesting post :)

Have a nice holiday guys, Fred
 
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Sounds busy Fred. An anodizing line or even the blueing setup would be killer. That top knife is a beast, I like the handle on the lower one. Its not your typical style but looks useful and comfy all the same. Ive got bigger hands so the usual size and what not doesnt usually do me justice.
 
Patrice Lemée;12892266 said:
Thanks for the instructions Ian, I'll give that a try.
Click to expand...

I thought when I first saw it, that it was a broken housing with just the indicator. If it engages the Acme thread well enough, that is all that will matter. you want to wait to engage the apron feed until the number is lined up with the mark. That way you don't attempt to engage the half-nuts in your apron prior to having the acme thread aligned with them. I think you know that too, so if you can engage the threads without missing and thereby wearing down/ damaging the half-nuts it will work just fine. :D
 
I'm jealous of the collet set Patrice. I got a handful of 5C collets for my lathe, but don't have a collect chuck or closer yet.

Normally I work all through the weekends, but I only was able to put a few hours in on Saturday because of family stuff.

Note the awesome pink guard pattern ;) LOL

nov benchwork 3.jpg
 
This thread has been awesome! Lets keep it going.

I picked up an old clausing lathe 12x36 with alot of tooling and a taper attachment a couple weeks ago. I've been so busy I haven't even had a chance to wire it up yet. Once I finish the belt conversion on my surface grinder Ill get it cleaned up and wired. I'm looking forward to making some pommels for daggers and maybe some EDC pens once I get a little more skill. Anyone have any tips for removing rust from the chuck? Also whats the best oil for the ways?

20131120_1306382_zpsfe500325.jpg
 
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I have a few things going on at the moment, but this piece is getting most of my attention lately.
The Walnut pieces in the center and on the butt end are just sacrificial and will be replaced with moose antler pieces.

A kuk from the Cape:


 
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