What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Ian,
That has to be the coolest thing I've seen in a while and I'm surprised it's not done more often by other makers. I hope you don't mind if I borrow this, but I do have some questions. Will the leather hold it's shape long term using this method of molding? If so, since leather tends to stretch a bit over time, will this method retain retention for the life of the sheath/knife?
 
Thanks :)

I've seen this done by others, I know that holster makers do it also. I think as long as you harden the leather a bit to set the shape, you are OK.

The cardboard has a second function, in addition to soaking up excess moisture, it allows the knife to sink in slightly so you have a bit of added tension when the sheath is assembled. I'm not sure if I'm the first to do it, was just an idea I had and tried out.
 
I think it's imperative that a good knifemaker is good at problem solving, efficiency and creativity. It seems that many of you display those traits.

I love the sheath making idea! I had wondered about retention too, but mostly if the sheath was over-molded, not loose.

Add a dangler to that and I'd have no problem carrying it every day. :)
 
With the sheaths or holsters when I do the vacuum forming I usually let them sit under the vacuum for maybe an hour or two. Enough time to get a good form. Then I remove them from the vacuum and carefully pull the item out of the leather or just pop the leather off then sat it aside on a flat surface to dry out. This will cause it to contract just a bit as it dries. Once dyed if you didnt do it before hand, and then oiled it usually has a perfect fit. You can also let it dry with the item inside and get a similar effect.

Usually I will wrap whatever item it is in a couple layers of saran wrap which will give just a tad of extra space which is a good idea. More an issue with holsters but you can actually get almost too tight of a fit if you dont have a little extra space around the item. With knives I usually dont have that issue unless its a high wrap on the handle.
 
A small update on the threading dial.
I made a small fixture to attach the dial just about the same way the proper one for this type/year lathe is.


threading_dial_southbend3.JPG


Looks to be working just fine. Here is a pic of the meshing gears.

threading_dial_southbend4.JPG


Still have to test it in use like it has been suggested but I don't see why it would not work.

Thanks again for your help.
 
Patrice, I forgot to mention I love the Aspen Green paint job on that lathe.

I hated the color at first, but it grows on you after awhile. :)
 
Thank you guys for keeping this going!

Lots of awesome stuff in this thread. :thumbup: :cool:

Don--- most excellent stuff... I hope you share photos when they're all done! :thumbup: :cool:
 
I worked on these today. One's for my wife's cousin, one for a lady named Amy, and one just because. I'm super impressed with the light in these photos. All it is is light from my window sill. Cloudy today. Very diffused and flat, but brought out the colors good.
100_6203.jpg
 
ib0e.JPG


8ce2.jpg


6n12.jpg


t9bg.jpg


vn8d.JPG


ikni.jpg


3vmx.jpg

on to testing.

kxrx.jpg

still love 5160.

m6py.jpg


qgko.jpg


xgau.jpg


423t.jpg

had a 36 grit zirconium belt explode on me the blood is not a scrape, the belt smacked my arm so hard the grits punctured the skin

4m07.jpg


nfs8.jpg


soem.jpg


2w32.jpg

the handle is curing right now i used t88 over the handle. all the handle work was done today. the testing and other pics were from yestarday.
 
Last edited:
Don Nguyen said:
Patrice you have the coolest machines ever.
Click to expand...

I agree Don. Back then they use to make some good looking machines. That is a good looking blade by the way and I love your etched signature.

And Ron, like you the color has grown on me. Now I would not want to see any other on my SB. :thumbup:
 
Great stuff everyone...

I love that wrapped handle, one of my favorites recently.




I'm going to start a trio of half-foot EDC's (they're all just over 6" OAL). I made the Wharncliffe version for a friend to open various types of packages at work. A customer was visiting and saw it in my completed knives drawer, and said it was really funny looking, then asked if I could make him one after he picked it up and held it. :)

The original customer wanted the smallest possible knife that could still be gripped with 4 fingers comfortably. I had an 6" scrap of 1084, and just freehand ground it with no lines until it felt like it was about the right shape. The handle shape wasn't really planned when I started, but works well for multiple grips used in the task the customer requested the knife for.

I agreed with the other customer that the Wharncliffe was a bit odd, so I drew out a couple other blade shapes to try out. I planned on using XHP and got 5/32" stock, but it came pretty thick, almost 3/16". It seemed a bit much, but I think with tapered tangs and distal taper it should actually work nicely, now that I've got a couple profiled. They will be some beefy little EDCs, but I don't think to the point of excessive. The max final thickness should be about .175" I think. I might even go without the tapered tang on one or two, but I think I'm going to do it for sure on the sheepsfoot, I plan on using a distal taper on that one for sure so it should work nicely.


bqUWHiP.jpg
 
HallHandmade said:
Great stuff everyone...

I love that wrapped handle, one of my favorites recently.




I'm going to start a trio of half-foot EDC's (they're all just over 6" OAL). I made the Wharncliffe version for a friend to open various types of packages at work. A customer was visiting and saw it in my completed knives drawer, and said it was really funny looking, then asked if I could make him one after he picked it up and held it. :)

The original customer wanted the smallest possible knife that could still be gripped with 4 fingers comfortably. I had an 6" scrap of 1084, and just freehand ground it with no lines until it felt like it was about the right shape. The handle shape wasn't really planned when I started, but works well for multiple grips used in the task the customer requested the knife for.

I agreed with the other customer that the Wharncliffe was a bit odd, so I drew out a couple other blade shapes to try out. I planned on using XHP and got 5/32" stock, but it came pretty thick, almost 3/16". It seemed a bit much, but I think with tapered tangs and distal taper it should actually work nicely, now that I've got a couple profiled. They will be some beefy little EDCs, but I don't think to the point of excessive. The max final thickness should be about .175" I think. I might even go without the tapered tang on one or two, but I think I'm going to do it for sure on the sheepsfoot, I plan on using a distal taper on that one for sure so it should work nicely.


bqUWHiP.jpg
Click to expand...

i love those handles!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top