What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Just finished this last week. .130" AEB-L, olive micarta, buckeye burl, black G10 spacers, and stainless pins and tube.

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...and how on earth do you get your photos that sharp, clear, well focussed with no reflections on the blades while holding them by hand in your shop?!? :cool: I can't make my knife photos look that good with a tripod while they sit still in diffused day light!:grumpy:

Okay, it doesn't help my cause that my knives just don't look as good as yours! But even if they did, the photos wouldn't ;)
 
Very nice. How do you like AEB-L?

Lol......performance wise I'll have to let you know down the road. This is my first one.

As far as working with it I love it. It grinds great post HT and finishes beautifully. I heat treated this before grinding the bevels.

Jay
 
These 2 knives represent #3 and #4 that I have done by myself from scratch. I have a 3rd one that I will post when the photos come in.
Both are 440C steel, 3/16ths inch thick. They were done on a 1x42 Delta belt sander. I can't wait to get a 2x72 good grinder. I used that new blade bond epoxy with no complaints yet and also peened stainless steel pins. Peened the pins after the glue dried. Finished both with a scothbrite belt.

The big one is based off of a knife my dad had but wanted larger. It is about 15 inches overall length. Denim micarta handle. Got a nice heft to it and should be able to chop well. The sheath on this one works not by pulling out straight but by sliding it sideways first, then out.
The next one was a request for a basic survival/camping knife by a friend. Knife blade is about 7" Handle is purple heart.

I welcome your comments and critiques. I know that my grind lines need to be crisper. The one with purple heart was not supposed to be a convex grind but turned into one on account of my difficulty in getting a good solid angle on the primary grind. I am guessing this just comes with experience and practice? Some small scratches did not all come out and I know this is a matter of time and attention to detail. Not super proud of my sheath work but my previous pieces were much more simple, so I am learning as I go with that too.

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Just finished this last week. .130" AEB-L, olive micarta, buckeye burl, black G10 spacers, and stainless pins and tube.

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I like it! What did you finish the ground blade portion with. Wondering what grit or product left that scratch level. I am so hesitant to leave a rougher looking scratch pattern.
 
Lol......performance wise I'll have to let you know down the road. This is my first one.

As far as working with it I love it. It grinds great post HT and finishes beautifully. I heat treated this before grinding the bevels.

Jay

It's all I have been using for about the last year, but I've only been making knives for a little over a year and I don't have any experience working with any other stainless steels. I think it is a good product for the end user as it performs well and is easy to resharpen. I also grind mine post heat treat.
 
...and how on earth do you get your photos that sharp, clear, well focussed with no reflections on the blades while holding them by hand in your shop?!? :cool: I can't make my knife photos look that good with a tripod while they sit still in diffused day light!:grumpy:

Okay, it doesn't help my cause that my knives just don't look as good as yours! But even if they did, the photos wouldn't ;)

Thanks guys,
These two have buckeye and elder burl, both stabilized of course.

Claycomb,
Haha I think I've taken a million pictures in all the wrong spots so now I have a better idea of how to get decent lighting. These were shot with just my phone camera. I've tried the light box and tripod deal (with a very mediocre camera) but could never get the photos to not look washed out or hazy. Don't know how on the earth the pros do it so well.

Blessings,
Joshua
 
Great work guys!
Neat handle material on that top knife, what is it? @Daniel Rohde
I like that red and black micarta @pablo.
Those two are looking sharp @JoshRG

Working on a new hunter! Here's a CAD screen shot of the design and a "High-tech" wood prototype I milled out yesterday ;)

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Just finished this titanium frame lock. This is my first completed knife in which I utilized my 1980s CNC milling machine. Ended up being more work than doing it all by hand :) But it was fun to do anyway. Plus I learned a lot!

[video=youtube;uNUG9KFKg4o]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uNUG9KFKg4o[/video]
 
Lots of nice blades guys!!!

Here is the latest out of my shop. EDC in CPM-154, 416 SS pinned bolsters, mosiac pins and stabilized black ash burl. Not sharpened yet.

 
I like it! What did you finish the ground blade portion with. Wondering what grit or product left that scratch level. I am so hesitant to leave a rougher looking scratch pattern.

Thank you!!! I did my bevels post heat treat, I went with this progression dunking in water every pass:
60 cubitron
120 cubitron
A45 trizact
A30 trizact
Fine Scotch brite

Jay
 
I have been a bit shy to post on here as I am a complete newbie and this being my 5th ever knife, it does not even remotely compare to most here. It is my first attempt at a hidden tang. I drew a Nessmuk style blade and the handle is moose antler. I am not finished yet but I am happy with the progress to date...

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bobby birds, thats pretty darn cool knife...I could see a couple peened brass pins on there would be real nice :)
 
Still emulating others designs and trying to learn the craft. This is obviously a Phillip Patton design (whose designs I love by the way).

Sorry for the bad photo. My phone went dead after the first picture.

The handle is some oak I had laying around. The steel is O1 at 60-61 HRC. It's hard to see, but it's a FFG grind with scotch brite finish.

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