What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Thanks guys!

I plan on using brass pin to secure the handle. I wish I would have made the tang a bit bigger but really this knife is more for skinning and camp food preparation than it is for any chopping etc so I am hoping it will be strong enough. Here is a pic before I started on the handle etc...

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currenthill said:
Still emulating other designs and trying to learn the craft. This is obviously a Phillip Patton design (whose designs I love by the way).

Sorry for the bad photo. My phone went dead after the first picture.

The handle is some oak I had laying around. The steel is O1 at 60-61 HRC. It's hard to see, but it's a FFG grind with scotch brite finish.

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Did you harden the blade yourself?
 
eyeeatingfish said:
These 2 knives represent #3 and #4 that I have done by myself from scratch. I have a 3rd one that I will post when the photos come in.
Both are 440C steel, 3/16ths inch thick. They were done on a 1x42 Delta belt sander. I can't wait to get a 2x72 good grinder. I used that new blade bond epoxy with no complaints yet and also peened stainless steel pins. Peened the pins after the glue dried. Finished both with a scothbrite belt.

The big one is based off of a knife my dad had but wanted larger. It is about 15 inches overall length. Denim micarta handle. Got a nice heft to it and should be able to chop well. The sheath on this one works not by pulling out straight but by sliding it sideways first, then out.
The next one was a request for a basic survival/camping knife by a friend. Knife blade is about 7" Handle is purple heart.

I welcome your comments and critiques. I know that my grind lines need to be crisper. The one with purple heart was not supposed to be a convex grind but turned into one on account of my difficulty in getting a good solid angle on the primary grind. I am guessing this just comes with experience and practice? Some small scratches did not all come out and I know this is a matter of time and attention to detail. Not super proud of my sheath work but my previous pieces were much more simple, so I am learning as I go with that too.

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No constructive comments?
 
I would like to see sharper grind lines and flat bevels. It takes a lot longer, and you remove more metal to achieve a ffg then you first think starting out.
 
Got 3 ready for handles. Top is a petty/utility kitchen knife, middle is a 6" santoku, and the bottom is a 7" gyuto.
 
eyeeatingfish,

ricky_arthur has said it just about as succinctly as possible. You have made some knife shaped objects. Do not be discouraged as even the work that went into those is valuable. As you already know, to get good results requires going MUCH further. Spend time at the grinder learning how to grind. If you don't have a grinder learn how to do it with files. Your edge bevels should be much higher and much flatter. Do not cut corners or rush through any step. When sanding the blade EVERY scratch from the previous grit must come out or you have not finished that step. If you don't have a ruler or a cheap digital caliper go and get one. Take lots of measurements as you work. Make sure things are symmetrical, pins line up, thicknesses are appropriate and even, lines are crisp, surfaces are flat and square, etc. As you said, it's a lot of attention to detail. Also, do not work on more than one knife at a time until it's done right. We all have many ideas that come to us quickly and we want to start making them right away. Make sketches and put them in a file for later. Work on one knife at a time and learn all the lessons that knife will teach you. Then take those lessons with you when you start the next one. Each knife you finish should be noticeably better than your last. If you have trouble with something, a design, how to handle a procedure or technique, ask for help before wasting a lot of time. These guys and gals are very good and willing to help.
 
eyeeatingfish said:
No constructive comments?
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You have done better than many in contouring your handle scales but the blockeyness removed from there seems to be added to the blades. As mentioned, Use hand files if need be and while I do make & like slightly convexed blades, you can remove about 30% or more of the steel there to get a Full Flat Grind or maybe a fuller flat grind.

You are pressing on the belt to hard thinking that will make up for a dull belt. You really only have about one piece of sand paper in one of those belts. 42" Sq.

None of this is personal, We are just trying to help you get to the next level, Some makers use nothing but hand files and paper along with a big can of elbow grease and a lot of patience.;)
 
Just working on some Elmax :)

And from today I think about to not accept Paypal anymone.

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Kosa_PL said:
Just working on some Elmax :)

And from today I think about to not accept Paypal anymone.

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Those look pretty good! Why wouldn't you want to accept paypal? I don't know of another good way to do it. People trust them and they are easy to use
 
Daniel Rohde said:
Those look pretty good! Why wouldn't you want to accept paypal? I don't know of another good way to do it. People trust them and they are easy to use
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I've had some problems with PayPal before. Basically if people pay with credit card and send you money the can ask the credit card company for their money back saying it was a transaction NOT made by them. So, the buyer will get their money back and you wi get chargedbacked by PayPal meaning you lost the money. I have uploaded proof and everything but the bad guy mostly wins in these cases unfortunately..
(Was a small amount and not knife related but still)
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
You have done better than many in contouring your handle scales but the blockeyness removed from there seems to be added to the blades. As mentioned, Use hand files if need be and while I do make & like slightly convexed blades, you can remove about 30% or more of the steel there to get a Full Flat Grind or maybe a fuller flat grind.

You are pressing on the belt to hard thinking that will make up for a dull belt. You really only have about one piece of sand paper in one of those belts. 42" Sq.

None of this is personal, We are just trying to help you get to the next level, Some makers use nothing but hand files and paper along with a big can of elbow grease and a lot of patience.;)
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Thank you all for the suggestions.

I think the handles come out nicer because I have worked with wood some before and because I started with the kit knives that just need handles.

When you say I am pressing to hard, how can you tell? What on the blade indicated that so that I know what to look for. Do you mean when I am pressing on the portion of the belt without without the platen? My 1x42 grinder has a right angle piece of steel as the platen so it does flex some which I am guessing takes away some of the precision.

I do notice that hand file really helps define the ricasso whereas the belt kind of blurs it. I am guessing that the limitations on my grinder also make it more difficult since the belt does wander a small amount. I was having trouble with the ricasso line and then the hand file helped bring it out more.

When it comes to the full flat grind, does it have to be perfect? Does a small amount of convex mess it up? I ask because I have a hard time keeping the angle consistent on subsequent passes once I start to set my grind. Is there any problem with a convex grind or is it just an aesthetics issue, where the flat grind shows more skill and detail? I was trying to do a partial flat grind on the purple heart knife (scandal grind?) but I ended up conveying it because I kept getting too many different micro angles in the flat grind. Do those go away as the finish is taken progressively finer?

I do regret working on 3 knives at once, I do think the quality suffered a little.
 
This is nothing t odo that you made 3 at once.

I can make 10 per day in high quality (or 20 smaller).

I'll be brutal, but your knives just are very bad quality.

In Poland we say "Zrobione na odpierdol" .
 
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