What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Well my imagination got the better of me today. I was flipping one of my 2nd Amendment blades in my hand and noticed when I flipped it I saw a mirrored image of the profile in the other side. That's all I needed to see and out to the shop and this bad boy was born. I still fight double grinds so wanting to do a sweeping plunge made it touch and go. But it turned out good and is being hand sanded right now.

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Kosa_PL said:
This is nothing t odo that you made 3 at once.

I can make 10 per day in high quality (or 20 smaller).

I'll be brutal, but your knives just are very bad quality.

In Poland we say "Zrobione na odpierdol" .
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Fair enough, but considering they are only the 3rd and 4th knife I have ever made from scratch, am I at least on track terms of skill progression?
 
For those providing constructive criticisms, here is the third knife I made in this batch. I feel the quality was a little (very small amount) better as it was the last I finished and it is smaller and simpler but I will let you guys be the judge.

1/8th" 440C about 4" long blade. Handle is a blue and black G10 with black micarta pins. The tip is a chisel grind for more durability for light prying or scraping while the main edge is a double grind and is a good deal thinner for regular cutting. I have a large spring clip on the back of the sheath so it is meant to attach to a tac vest with an edge forward reverse grip draw. The idea was to create a knife that wasn't too big or weigh too much but could handle different obstacles.

The insults may commence! Thanks in advance.

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Don't worry about what some folks say. Kosa isn't fluent and may not be able express negative opinions in a tactful way. As for your knives, they look like most peoples first couple of knives. Try to crisp up the plunges and bevels. Also spend more time sanding. It looks like your buffing the steel? If so, I would suggest leaving a hand rubbed finish unless you can get all the scratched out up to 1500-2000. I would suggest making a smaller knife, say 3-4" cutting edge, and focus on really making it the best you can. Once you do, you will realize what it takes and can transfer it to your next one. Keep it up, it will come.
 
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Looks good bud! Very nice job on the bevel of the dagger. I would put a little swell in the handle but it's hard to say without holding it. Nice job!
JTknives said:
Well my imagination got the better of me today. I was flipping one of my 2nd Amendment blades in my hand and noticed when I flipped it I saw a mirrored image of the profile in the other side. That's all I needed to see and out to the shop and this bad boy was born. I still fight double grinds so wanting to do a sweeping plunge made it touch and go. But it turned out good and is being hand sanded right now.

12661971_10209285327037205_3580174095730902166_n.jpg
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Matt R said:
Don't worry about what some folks say. Kiss isn't fluent and may not be able express negative opinions in a tactful way. As for your knives, they look like most peoples first couple of knives. Try to crisp up the plunges and bevels. Also spend more time sanding. It looks like your buffing the steel? If so, I would suggest leaving a hand rubbed finish unless you can get all the scratched out up to 1500-2000. I would suggest making a smaller knife, say 3-4" cutting edge, and focus on really making it the best you can. Once you do, you will realize what it takes and can transfer it to your next one. Keep it up, it will come.
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Plunge line, thats what it's called. I was thinking it was the ricasso. From now on I am going to do those by hand with a file to really get them crisp. Part of the problem is with the belt moving sideways a 1mm or so, especially if pressure is applied, it was making those blurred. I did some hand filing but it was already a little late to completely fix it up.

I was playing around with using a buffer and emery compound to get a satin finish. It wasn't bad but I realized I had left behind a few scratches that were too deep and well we all know how those stick out the smoother the finish. I also tried another product that was a plastic wire wheel with abrasives embedded but it didn't leave nice parallel scratches. I ended up finishing with a scotchbrite type belt which was decent, but probably would have been nicer had I not tried so many different things.

Having crisp grind lines is mostly aesthetic right? Not that I don't want a pretty knife but I am hoping that first and foremost they will perform like a good knife should. (heat treat was done by texasknifesupply) Assuming the convex edge isn't too wide near the edge, is there anything wrong with convex grind?

I think I really need to develop getting a consistent grind angle on a flat grind or scandal grind that leaves a nice grind line. That eluded me on theses knives. (the big one I meant to be convex) I can't wait to get a 2x72 to replace my dying 1x42 delta though. Not that I blame my tools but I am hoping a better tool will increase my quality.
 
Make youself a small grinding jig, and use protractor to set grinding angle.
Carbide file(grinding) guide should be also helpfull.
 
Also just because there is signs of grinding does not mean you have removed enough material. You can see how rounded your bevel is on your knives. As you bring your grind lines up the bevel itself should be flat (minor convex/ whatever aside - that requires practice as well). A convex grind does not mean the grinds are two giant humps that begin at the top of your grind lines and meet at the edge. The only thing that works for is an axe. That is what these guys mean by spend more time on the grinder. A convex grind is only convex as you get to the edge.

It was a eureka moment for me when I realized the above point myself. What works for me is watching the space between the belt and the edge. If there is a space your bevel is not flat.

Here is a good write up by Blade Forums own Fred Rowe.

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...rogressive-blade-grinding-or-whats-your-angle
 
Hey Fish,
Start with smaller knives. like a three to four inch blade. the smaller the better, it will help you learn about keeping angles consistent and be easier to work with over all. Plus they are faster to make, so you can mess them up faster and start over faster! (not meant as a slight, cause I'm in the same league as you!) We beginners always bite off more than we can chew and end up screwing it up, getting frustrated and saying "screw it! it's good enough" even though it's not.

On grinding:
-Mark the center line of your blade edge. Mark where you want your grind to end on the flat of the blade(make sure they match on each side).
-Knock the sharp corners off at a 45 degree angle, so that each grind ends about .02 from the center line you drew.
-grind progressively sharper angles from the edge (without going any closer to the center line) so that your "grind line" works its way up the flat.
-when your grind is one flat surface from your blade center to the mark you made on the flat of the blade, you are finished with the bevel.
-Hand sand the grind marks out, or use progressively higher grade belts to finish your blade.

Before you do any of this search youtube for "Nick Wheeler Hand Sanding 101" and watch it a bunch of times.

Work slowly and deliberately, don't move on until you are satisfied with your work.
if you get tired of working on a task, stop. go do something else and then come back and work on it some more.
have fun!
 
Matt R said:
Looks good bud! Very nice job on the bevel of the dagger. I would put a little swell in the handle but it's hard to say without holding it. Nice job!
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I'm going to wrap the handle with para cord like I do on my other knives. Yeah the handle is narrow but the cord adds bulk to all sides so it should come out ok. Looking to make a matching dagger to go with my 2nd Amendment.
 
In regards to getting a flat grind: take a metal straight edge (I use the edge of a square) and lay it across your grind area from the top of the grind to the edge. If doesn't touch the edge of the blade and the top of the grind, in other words, it has to be rocked back and forth, its not flat. Do this the entire way up the blade checking for high spots. See picture.
416a077e3aeeb51687b8dfedf151d615.jpg
 
eyeeatingfish said:
For those providing constructive criticisms, here is the third knife I made in this batch. I feel the quality was a little (very small amount) better as it was the last I finished and it is smaller and simpler but I will let you guys be the judge.

1/8th" 440C about 4" long blade. Handle is a blue and black G10 with black micarta pins. The tip is a chisel grind for more durability for light prying or scraping while the main edge is a double grind and is a good deal thinner for regular cutting. I have a large spring clip on the back of the sheath so it is meant to attach to a tac vest with an edge forward reverse grip draw. The idea was to create a knife that wasn't too big or weigh too much but could handle different obstacles.

The insults may commence! Thanks in advance.

12688273_955340371213596_2064450929857432579_n.jpg
Click to expand...

Keep in mind, most of us posted up our first few knives and they were "less then ideal". If someone here takes the time to give constructive criticism, then they actually want you to get better. I ask friends I have made knives for to give that kind of feedback, but I never get it, because it was a gift. If I want to get better, I post it here, and apply the feedback I get to the next one. Carry on!.
 
eyeeatingfish said:
Plunge line, thats what it's called. I was thinking it was the ricasso. From now on I am going to do those by hand with a file to really get them crisp. Part of the problem is with the belt moving sideways a 1mm or so, especially if pressure is applied, it was making those blurred. I did some hand filing but it was already a little late to completely fix it up.

I was playing around with using a buffer and emery compound to get a satin finish. It wasn't bad but I realized I had left behind a few scratches that were too deep and well we all know how those stick out the smoother the finish. I also tried another product that was a plastic wire wheel with abrasives embedded but it didn't leave nice parallel scratches. I ended up finishing with a scotchbrite type belt which was decent, but probably would have been nicer had I not tried so many different things.

Having crisp grind lines is mostly aesthetic right? Not that I don't want a pretty knife but I am hoping that first and foremost they will perform like a good knife should. (heat treat was done by texasknifesupply) Assuming the convex edge isn't too wide near the edge, is there anything wrong with convex grind?

I think I really need to develop getting a consistent grind angle on a flat grind or scandal grind that leaves a nice grind line. That eluded me on theses knives. (the big one I meant to be convex) I can't wait to get a 2x72 to replace my dying 1x42 delta though. Not that I blame my tools but I am hoping a better tool will increase my quality.
Click to expand...

You want to double your grit with each belt or paper change, I use a 36 grit, 60Grit and 120 grit then to Scotchbrite or cork belts depending on what I'm after.
 
Kosa_PL said:
Just working on some Elmax :)

And from today I think about to not accept Paypal anymone.

CNS0Hh.jpg
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I think you'd be shooting yourself in the foot by not accepting PayPal any longer. That's the only way I'd do an international or out of country transaction.
 
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