What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Just finished this one up. Damascus with nickel silver bolsters and spalted birch burl handle.





 
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Trying out full tang stacked handle. Very pleased with the first attempt
 

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This big stag handled knife is forged 5160 @ 61 HRC. 8 inches long. The handle is Sambar Stag, curly Koa, with wrought iron fittings and G=10 spacers. OAL is 13 inches.

The bottom photo, even though not knife related is of my shop dog, Tipper, a wonderful companion.
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This big stag handled knife is forged 5160 @ 61 HRC. 8 inches long. The handle is Sambar Stag, curly Koa, with wrought iron fittings and G=10 spacers. OAL is 13 inches.

The bottom photo, even though not knife related is of my shop dog, Tipper, a wonderful companion.

Beautiful work Fred.
 
Worked on the scales and back spacer of my first liner lock yesterday. I hope it turns out to be a usable knife. If not, I will try to not repeat my mistakes on the next one.

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I just spent the last 30-minutes composing a post about this, but the Internet ate it. You can trust that it was witty and humorous, yet informative. I may have likened knifemaking to Russian nesting dolls. It made sense at the time.

Anyway, long-story-short, I’ve been doing some work to improve the accuracy of my milling machine.

A month or so back, I bought an Indicol-style indicator holder from Grizzly for $11. When I got home, I found that it did not fit my machine. Bummer. Apparently most of these are designed to fit the common 1-7/8” spindles of Bridgeport-style machines, and are not big enough to clamp to the 2.29” quill of my Grizzly G0463 (Sieg X3 variant). :(

Rather than give up, I decided to attempt to build a new clamping frame for the holder. The photo below shows some of the steps.

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At upper left, you can see the holder as it came from Grizzly. The black clamp body is way too small to fit my machine.

To build a new body, I first disassembled the holder, scanned the original, then imported the image into AutoCAD at 1:1 scale. I then traced the scanned image, and scaled it as required to fit the quill of my machine. I had to do some tweaking of the mounting-hole layout so the original hardware would still fit and would continue to be centered on the spindle.

At lower left, you can see the ½” aluminum plate that I used for the new clamping body, as well as the scaled CAD design.

Finally, at lower right, you can see the holder reassembled with the new clamping body. I’m pretty stoked with how this turned out.



In the six years since buying this little mill, I had never once taken the time to check it for squareness. One of the main reasons for the new indicator holder was to aid in the measuring and tramming process.

So, last night I did some tramming. I primarily followed the process outlined on Yuriy Krushelnytskiy’s webpage HERE. I can’t say that I got everything dead-nuts… but it is definitely MUCH improved.

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Some things I learned:
  • My Fowler machinist square is not, in fact, square. It's not even completely FLAT along it's length. I'm glad that Yuriy recommended testing in both directions.
  • Tramming is a bit like voodoo magic.
  • Better is good. Perfect is impossible.


Erin
 
We do our big mill twice a year and always after drinking 5 cups of coffee. I agree it is much like balance beam performed by a complete novice. We take good care of the mill and I can never figure out why or how the thing gets out of square.

Fred
 
Worked on the scales and back spacer of my first liner lock yesterday. I hope it turns out to be a usable knife. If not, I will try to not repeat my mistakes on the next one.

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I'd like to see that one finished.
The white looks good
 
The newest addition to our family:
Tobi
10 weeks, Terrier(Jack Russell, English??) and Huskey mix, my daughter's choice of harness.






-Peter
 
This is an idea I've been working on for a while and recently had the gusto to push it through.

Some time back I saw a knife posted by one of the regulars here(I want to say Scott Roush...???) with a stunning, brush-textured Wenge treatment. I thought that was just smart as hell, and produced a unique look that I've tried to recreate here. I brushed hard into the grain of handle and sheath for at least two hours with a fine stainless steel wire brush found at a welder's supply shop, then blew out all the dust and gave it a 3-coat oil finish sanded to 600. Even with the heavy texture, its still quite smooth with no sharp catchy spots.

After this first chance to work with Caribou, I'm a bit surprised at how relatively soft it is compared to Moose or White Tail. It's also "dirty" well through the whole piece, especially near the crown, with deep black and green and brown streaks and "stains" everywhere. I actually like the look, but unexpected. The antler pieces on front and back of the handle, as well as the two spacers, are all hand carved ferrules. This is a completely straight bladed seax. No curve at the tip. Pointy! Why? Because. :p

Please let me know what you think.

-Peter

Broken Back Seax

Blade: 10 1/2" x approx 5/32" of hand forged 1095 with a brute de forge finish, clay quenched, flat ground bevels hand sanded to 600 grit then etched and polished to reveal a smokey hamon.

Handle: 5 1/8" of wire brushed Wenge' mortised to fit the blade's hidden tang. Caribou antler ferrules on either end accompanied by antler and Rosewood spacer ferrules . The wire brushed wood has a Tung oil finish. The hand turned, domed, and polished antler pin is left slightly proud.

Sheath/Scabbard: Routed, two-piece, wire brushed Wenge' with hand turned Caribou antler stud and leather strap.


























That sir is beautiful! Everything about it is perfect.
 
Is that a unicorn AND a mermaid? That IS awesome. :)

So how do you like the radius platen? I have one and haven't put it to metal yet. Is it pronounced enough to deliver a nice urasuki?

Ive only tried it with 1/8" and .100 thick steel but it works out. Would probably come out much more pronounced in something that is Deba thickness.
 
12 years of hacksawing barstock and wasting belts by profiling from a rectangle. not any more ! brand new jet 8201k. i used the bag that was over the shipping crate to make a curtain to keep the metal chips from going too far.
 
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