What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Trying some new things again. A small "bird and trout" and a sculpted? handle.
I don't even know what this grey wood looking stuff is,
but its pretty.







And tried out a cork belt for the first time and I really like the scratches it leaves.

 
Josh Rider said:
Trying some new things again. A small "bird and trout" and a sculpted? handle.
I don't even know what this grey wood looking stuff is,
but its pretty.







And tried out a cork belt for the first time and I really like the scratches it leaves.

Click to expand...


Josh,
Its Basically a dyed Plywood or Laminate, The can come in many different colors and mixed.

Many places sell it I think some of the trade names are dymondwood & Pakkawood. I personally stopped using it because many knives from Pakistan have it.

Do wear a respirator, It can release formaldehyde if you get it hot when working it.

Cork belts give a nice finish, Have you used the Scotchbrite conditioning belts? I use the Scotch after the cork.
 
I'm nowhere near the levels of you all, but I can still do rustic pieces. Here's a blade im working on right now. Made from an old mill saw blade. I'm making new handles for it because the maple decided to crack.

f33ba1c158d13b46c9aad61fdc58dce0.jpg


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Rhinoknives1 said:
Josh,
Its Basically a dyed Plywood or Laminate, The can come in many different colors and mixed.

Many places sell it I think some of the trade names are dymondwood & Pakkawood. I personally stopped using it because many knives from Pakistan have it.

Do wear a respirator, It can release formaldehyde if you get it hot when working it.

Cork belts give a nice finish, Have you used the Scotchbrite conditioning belts? I use the Scotch after the cork.
Click to expand...

Thanks Laurence,
I bought a bunch of random supplies from a knifemaker that was retiring. He did say some of it was dymondwood. I do wear a respirator, but I could still smell an almost perfume odor when sanding this stuff.

I used the scotch-brite before this cork. Maybe I'm doing it backwards.:confused:
I bought a brown course scotch-brite which I never use anymore (seems too aggressive and washes out any crisp lines) and now only use the grey ultra fine one.

Thanks for your help and thanks for the Rhino finger skins! Those are awesome.
 
I.N.F.K said:
I'm nowhere near the levels of you all, but I can still do rustic pieces. Here's a blade im working on right now. Made from an old mill saw blade. I'm making new handles for it because the maple decided to crack.

f33ba1c158d13b46c9aad61fdc58dce0.jpg


Sent from my KYOCERA-E6560 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Nice! gona do a rustic sheath to boot?
 
Finally up and running. Got some tweaking and aligning to do to get it the way I want it and make a cover and filter for the motor. Already figured out the motor will "work" but will be upgraded as soon as possible to a 2-3hp and vfd, but way better than the harbor freight 1x30, that's for sure. Must say though, I am proud of the measurements I took to make it. I thought I was going to have to cut off the tensioning upright and shorten it, but everything fits just right.

 
JoshRG said:
Just some satin hollows on hollows. Pleased with how these came out. :)
Click to expand...

What's your grit progression to get that finish? You said that it's a satin finish. Do you use a scotchbrite belt at all? Possibly scotchbrite the bevel and then re-sand the flat to establish a clean grind line?

Very nice grinds, as usual
 
Josh Rider said:
Thanks Laurence,
I bought a bunch of random supplies from a knifemaker that was retiring. He did say some of it was dymondwood. I do wear a respirator, but I could still smell an almost perfume odor when sanding this stuff.

I used the scotch-brite before this cork. Maybe I'm doing it backwards.:confused:
I bought a brown course scotch-brite which I never use anymore (seems too aggressive and washes out any crisp lines) and now only use the grey ultra fine one.

Thanks for your help and thanks for the Rhino finger skins! Those are awesome.
Click to expand...

I use the belts in this order, I don't do Mirror polish because to me it looks horrible as soon as you have some scratches in it.

Nice bruch satin and a few lines still visable is fine cause they keep food from sticking. After a 120G Ceramic I go to a 400 Cork, Then I take it back down with that brown Scothbrite then Maroon, then ether the Blue or Grey belt.

The Idea is to clean it up and then give it a nice even lower Grit finish. Experiment and find what works for you!
 
Larsje100 said:
Beautiful work Josh!
Your grinds are perfect, I'm jealous, and I don't think I'm the only one ;)

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Click to expand...
Thanks brotha! :D

JG Custom Metal Works said:
What's your grit progression to get that finish? You said that it's a satin finish. Do you use a scotchbrite belt at all? Possibly scotchbrite the bevel and then re-sand the flat to establish a clean grind line?

Very nice grinds, as usual
Click to expand...

Nope no scotchbrite, I run cork belts. Once the flats are prepped I just grind in the bevels, no need to clean up. Appreciate the kind words! :)

Lo/Rez,
Killer grinds bro! :thumbup:

Finished these up plus one more today. Happy with them.
 
Quite possibly the last high polish blade I ever do. I don't like doing them, how they look, or how easy they scratch as a user. For a brief moment they look kinda cool though.
5946e2baccb59f75ed9f60edd135832c.jpg
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The funny thing about high polished blades is it is the best finish at resisting corrosion, but the cost of doing it and the desire to maintain it pretty much decreases the chance it will actually get used and getting corroded .
 
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I know this doesn't look like much, but it will be a thing when finished. Im copying the design of the Otzi axe except the blade is carbon steel. Other than that I'll be using pine pitch and leather to haft it.

I may make a second one but with a flared cutting edge. Then I would keep it with my gear as a emergency axe.

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