What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

No offense taken guys. I appreciate the honest feedback. I got so caught up in doing it this way I didn't stop to think that it would look anything but intentional. Now that you guys point it out I agree. Guess I should ask questions before I grind next time lol. Into the scrap pile....

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Offset grinds are common in kitchen knives. I do a lot of them.
 
Offset grinds are common in kitchen knives. I do a lot of them.
I'm gonna finish it out anyway. It is still functional. I was just curious if it was used by anybody and if it was advantageous at all.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
try slicing stuff with a 70/30 grind , you just might prefer it ;)
 
Convex the right side, and full flat on the left. Helps with food stiction. About 1/3 to 1/2 of the kitchen knives I do are ground like that. :thumbup:
 
Convex the right side, and full flat on the left. Helps with food stiction. About 1/3 to 1/2 of the kitchen knives I do are ground like that. [emoji106]
I'm already full flat on both sides but I'll keep that in mind for the next one. Thanks for the tip!

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
 
Here's some examples of grinds. This isn't all of them, by any stretch. With one of Nathan's radius platens, an s-grind works really well too.

knife_types.png
 
Willy, my browser gives a BIG warning about the site where you host the last pic you posted. (trying to steal passwords)
I don't think that is what you want. Just to let you know :)
 
Willy, my browser gives a BIG warning about the site where you host the last pic you posted. (trying to steal passwords)
I don't think that is what you want. Just to let you know :)

Yep I am getting a similar warning from my Chromium browser and the photo doesn't appear in the post.
 
Marc, very nicely done & I envy you your grinder! It must be quick to work with (and make mistakes with as well). Hopefully, I'll be making one soon, as the 1X30 is just too slow on most things.

Here's the "finished" chopper from an earlier post. Man, it's a lot of real estate to sharpen this thing by hand & grind on a 1X30, but I'm pleased with it for a first attempt at a larger blade with a miniature grinder. Finish is 600 grit, so I can buff out scratches easier than a high polish.

I was wondering about the HT at 58, but for now I'm good with the way it cuts. I might have taken it up a point or so with the 5160, but I was concerned about chipping & my questionable chopping abilities. For now it's really nice as I'm not getting any chipping or bending, so 58 on a blade this size is just fine. I've hit a few small knots & so far it's good, without any problems, bending, chipping or kinks in the blade. The 5160 is really nice stuff to work with, for this size blade & use.

Finisheds_zpsrqnfspci.jpg


Finished1s_zps7igv0do6.jpg


I've just cut a couple of 2X4's so far, but it's amazing how the mass really pushes the edge into the wood & bites deeply. After chopping into chunks, the wood just pops open when splitting & there's no resistance. I hope I never screw up a cut & make a mistake with a swing, it would slice like butter against something softer than wood......
 
I used 3M belts, 2-36, 1-60, 1-80, 1-120 & it took forever, at least it seemed that way. It went to heat treat after doing the hand sanding to remove the belt marks. I didn't keep track of hours (no reason to), so it was done over several days, a "few" hours at a time. I did learn a lot, but mostly I learned that I need more ponies & a bigger machine.

Fortunately, being stubborn helps a lot. There are plenty of mistakes on this, but for my third blade (the second pattern of my design) it turned out well enough & is very functional.
 
No offense taken guys. I appreciate the honest feedback. I got so caught up in doing it this way I didn't stop to think that it would look anything but intentional. Now that you guys point it out I agree. Guess I should ask questions before I grind next time lol. Into the scrap pile....

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk
Josh you can always use it for a shop knife. No need to waste all that time you put in to it already.

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk
 
Convex the right side, and full flat on the left. Helps with food stiction. About 1/3 to 1/2 of the kitchen knives I do are ground like that. :thumbup:

I thought many Japanese kitchen knives are ground with a flat on the right (away from the food) and an Urasaki (a large radius hollow grind) on the left (towards the food) for the reason you mentioned. With that style of grind, the plunge would look like a chisel grind correct? since it's basically a chisel grind with the flat side dished out.
 
Marc, very nicely done & I envy you your grinder! It must be quick to work with (and make mistakes with as well). Hopefully, I'll be making one soon, as the 1X30 is just too slow on most things.

Finisheds_zpsrqnfspci.jpg



I've just cut a couple of 2X4's so far, but it's amazing how the mass really pushes the edge into the wood & bites deeply. After chopping into chunks, the wood just pops open when splitting & there's no resistance. I hope I never screw up a cut & make a mistake with a swing, it would slice like butter against something softer than wood......

Thanks for the compliment. Yes it is MUCH quicker than my H.F. 1X30, and mistakes happen much quicker as well. Not in the images I posted, but the plunge line now is further back due to just that. I need/want to invest or make a plunge guide/jig. I can set my platen on the exact angle I want and I use the 123 block to hold the blade. My tool rest is just a 2" x 3/8" x 24" flat bar the I can slide the 123 block across the belt. I then clamped a piece of metal to the tool rest as a stop for the plunge, but it only works to a degree. If the belt wanders over the plunge gets ruined (which it did once) or if I don't line up the blade just right when contacting the belt it can get messed up (which it also did) so i had to move the plunge back twice. If you notice in the mages I posted the very slight curve at the heal of the blade, that is now exasperated, and I have to grind down the flat part behind it a little so shorten that curve as it looks bad right now, but that was at the point I called it a night as that required changing the platen angle and I am contemplating going another grit first, but last night was a hard night so I called it quits.

That blade of yours is sweet. I can't have imagined doing that on a 1x30. Great work.
 
I've been working on forging blades lately and my homemade forge just isn't going to do anymore. I'm considering one of the Devils Forge models from ebay. Does anyone have any experience with them?
9f782770d85bb66ec11ec0ce4a366242.jpg


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
We are close to done prototyping our first folder! This prototype version is going out to some knife-nut friends for beta testing :D This thing has really taken shape in the last week. After spending many hours tweaking the assembly and milling on monday, I have them flipping very smoothly with just the right amount of detent, at least in my opinion. Excited to see how they do in our tests.

CAM screen shot of the milling simulation for the flipper tab
29927666161_debc55bbda_z.jpg


Two of the latest version of the prototype, "prototype 2.4"
30106323456_f7d5f7499e_z.jpg
 
Back
Top