What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

[Justin Schmidt]

Nice looking grinders. I spent a couple hours yesterday modifying the design. I'm going to have the motor do the tracking like the TW90. After doing all this solidworks one can really appreciate the thought and engineering behind the design of that grinder.

I'd you don't mind me asking how is that achieved? I can't seem to wrap my head around how you track with the motor.

Pleasanthill just keep at it man and definitely get some better epoxy

 

[Kevin McGovern]

Thanks Kevin. As a matter of fact I have a Hobby Lobby near my work and they have that according to their website for $10.99, and that's a lot more epoxy for the money..

like I said, I've been pleased with it. Makers can be pretty rabid about the epoxy they use. I do score my pins close to the tang to promote grip. I also drill holes in the tang to create epoxy bridges. I think I could use a 5 minute epoxy if i could assemble it that quick, but the slower stuff isn't as brittle once it sets either, creating a stronger bond for knife applications. At least that seems to be the current wisdom.

 

[kuraki]

Motor on a hinge with a jackscrew and a domed drive wheel. It's how most industrial 2 wheel sanders are tracked. Like the 3" x 118" 7hp monster we have at work.

 

[KnuckleDownKnives]

I'd you don't mind me asking how is that achieved? I can't seem to wrap my head around how you track with the motor.

The motor is hinged like the tracking wheel would be. Google tw90 and look for an image taken from the left side. You'll see the nut over the motor which is the hinge center and between the two uprights is the adjustment know. Its rotates the motor left to right unlike the tracking wheel which is up and down.

 

[Kevin Powers]

I'd you don't mind me asking how is that achieved? I can't seem to wrap my head around how you track with the motor.
D

I'm still playing with it and figuring it out but hopefully you get the idea.
A bolt will go through the tab under the tooling arm tubes, and will push or pull the motor plate.

hinge side

 

[gmwilkes]

Well... finally got the materials to build a filing jig as well as some 2x6 to mount my vise to so that it can be strapped (gonna use ratchet straps) to the rail of my back porch for now. Going to make a small table to mount it to later to make things a little easier. Especially sitting and using it vs standing. Gotta make due while living in an apartment.

 

[kuraki]

I'm still playing with it and figuring it out but hopefully you get the idea.
A bolt will go through the tab under the tooling arm tubes, and will push or pull the motor plate.

hinge side

Our industrial one still hinges up and down. Jack scew on the bottom and weight of the motor, no springs etc.

 

[Willie71]

Thanks Kevin. As a matter of fact I have a Hobby Lobby near my work and they have that according to their website for $10.99, and that's a lot more epoxy for the money..

The 5h JB weld from the auto parts store us quite good too.(they have a 5min version that's ok, but doesn't solve your problem.) It leaves a black/grey seam when cured, but I use it on a lot of full tang knives. I've had good results with the foaming gorilla glue too. It's messy to clean as it foams for a couple hours.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

The 5h JB weld from the auto parts store us quite good too.(they have a 5min version that's ok, but doesn't solve your problem.) It leaves a black/grey seam when cured, but I use it on a lot of full tang knives. I've had good results with the foaming gorilla glue too. It's messy to clean as it foams for a couple hours.

Think it's possible to JB weld bolsters?

 

[Willie71]

Think it's possible to JB weld bolsters?

Totally possible. I use it with black bolsters all the time, like G10 or micarta. I use it to set guards too. It's great for back filling gaps in the back side of a guard.

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Totally possible. I use it with black bolsters all the time, like G10 or micarta. I use it to set guards too. It's great for back filling gaps in the back side of a guard.

Awesome. Still use pins right?

 

[Willie71]

Awesome. Still use pins right?

Yes. :thumbup:

 

[Justin Schmidt]

Grinding first piece of real steel


7in OAL .138 aebl

 

[JTknives]

Grinding first piece of real steel


7in OAL .138 aebl

I thought your first piece of real steel was 1095?

 

[Justin Schmidt]

It was but i used files. This is my first time grinding real steel

 

[AVigil]

[video=youtube;McelYWdctz4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McelYWdctz4[/video]

 

[Lo/Rez]

Very nice.

 

[JTknives]

[video=youtube;McelYWdctz4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=McelYWdctz4[/video]

I'm just mesmerised by your blade finish

 

[kuraki]

A friend wanted to make his own knife, so as he was working on that I thought, you know, that would look good 2x as long, and made myself one to test a few things. 1- 80crv2 with a very fine edge as a chopper, 2- how durable my home made Alumilite honeycomb scales are and 3- cork belt finishing and 4- Rick's "plunge grinds are over rated" . It cuts like a laser and so far no deforming in chopping even though the edge is backed up by maybe .015". 60 RC.

 

[Josh Rider]

Adam, that NY sneak is awesome. Your grind looks perfect and your ergonomics look extremely comfortable.

Kuraki, those homemade honeycomb scales look exactly like the store bought version. Nice work!