What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Brock47 said:
My latest sharpening nightmare....

NovYanagi-Cropped-1.jpg
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That's a chisel grind? Total pain in the ass to sharpen, and look good at the same time.
 
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[video=youtube;gtNNCxfiySE]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtNNCxfiySE&feature=youtu.be[/video]
 
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Current WIP. Just a few more small details and this one will be finished. O1 blade, redwood handle and aluminum guard.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G890A using Tapatalk
 
Finally finishing up some designs I've been working on for what feels like forever. Very excited to see the final product.
Blessings,
Joshua
 
JoshRG said:
Finally finishing up some designs I've been working on for what feels like forever. Very excited to see the final product.
Blessings,
Joshua
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I'm digin' that copper! Nice clean stuff as always!
 
Brock47 said:
My latest sharpening nightmare....

NovYanagi-Cropped-1.jpg
Click to expand...

I sharpen all of knives using my 2 x 72 with grits from 120G J Flex Ceramics to 3M, 7 Micron Silicon Carbide. Fast and Sharp! It takes a while to get the right touch as far as pressure on the belt. Then I buff with Green Chrome for a slight convex wicked sharp edge.
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
I sharpen all of knives using my 2 x 72 with grits from 120G J Flex Ceramics to 3M, 7 Micron Silicon Carbide. Fast and Sharp! It takes a while to get the right touch as far as pressure on the belt. Then I buff with Green Chrome for a slight convex wicked sharp edge.
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I appreciate the advice, I really do. But I don't see how it might be done on a belt with this yanagi. It has a urasuki on the back, which has to be 'sharpened' with the front, and the chisel grind has to remain absolutely consistent the full length of the blade.
I've had this one on the stones for hours and there are a couple of areas where it isn't sharp still. I have relatively a lot of metal to remove to get to the edge in a couple of places, even though the edge margin is very nearly there. The bevel is .75 inches of hardened steel. :\
I've watched a couple of sharpening vids on yanagibas and they talk about the blade bending and the need to force pressure on the leading edge of the grind. It's complicated to say the least.
 
Brock47 said:
I appreciate the advice, I really do. But I don't see how it might be done on a belt with this yanagi. It has a urasuki on the back, which has to be 'sharpened' with the front, and the chisel grind has to remain absolutely consistent the full length of the blade.
I've had this one on the stones for hours and there are a couple of areas where it isn't sharp still. I have relatively a lot of metal to remove to get to the edge in a couple of places, even though the edge margin is very nearly there. The bevel is .75 inches of hardened steel. :\
I've watched a couple of sharpening vids on yanagibas and they talk about the blade bending and the need to force pressure on the leading edge of the grind. It's complicated to say the least.
Click to expand...


I just did a scandi grind on 3/8" 3V. Getting it even, with the edge centered, and an even scratch pattern took hours. I had to redress the x45 belt repeatedly, as it would noticeably dull in a couple passes, showing a different scratch pattern from one end of the blade to the other. I didn't have to worry too much about flex though.
 
Willie71 said:
I just did a scandi grind on 3/8" 3V. Getting it even, with the edge centered, and an even scratch pattern took hours. I had to redress the x45 belt repeatedly, as it would noticeably dull in a couple passes, showing a different scratch pattern from one end of the blade to the other. I didn't have to worry too much about flex though.
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Right, that is the luxury of a double sided grind. With this one you don't have any forgiveness on the other side. I did get the basic grind set on the 72 lengthwise, but when you get down to the edge, it's just difficult. :eek:
 
I have read this thread for a long time and admired many fine pcs by talented makers. I appreciate what I can learn here by observing. I don't feel like my work is nearly up to where most of the other makers here is at. But my son and I have fun with it. As with most trades and skills, it only gets better with good advice and sound teachers to follow. By way of a small introduction... My grandfather and father were carpenters, and I and my son are as well. Working with our hands is a mindset that has been passed on by those that have taught us. My last name is Ehst and that is the makers mark on some of the blades.... We are still working on building a press that will do a proper job every time.

Tom McGinnis at Ozark Knifemakers has been a source of encouragement and knowledge. I value his friendship, and advice. Others here within the BF community as well and we enjoy connecting in various ways.

We started selling knives last year, and it has been humbling as word spread, and people asked for more. I am putting up several we finished this week, in part just to contribute to something I continue to learn from. If you see things that would help me learn or the function of the blades or handles, feel free to comment...

A 10" blade chopper out of 3/8 80 CR V 2

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The 2 smaller knives with bolsters are CPM 154, the 3rd one is 1095 with dyed apple wood over green G 10 liners.

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Brock47 said:
I appreciate the advice, I really do. But I don't see how it might be done on a belt with this yanagi. It has a urasuki on the back, which has to be 'sharpened' with the front, and the chisel grind has to remain absolutely consistent the full length of the blade.
I've had this one on the stones for hours and there are a couple of areas where it isn't sharp still. I have relatively a lot of metal to remove to get to the edge in a couple of places, even though the edge margin is very nearly there. The bevel is .75 inches of hardened steel. :\
I've watched a couple of sharpening vids on yanagibas and they talk about the blade bending and the need to force pressure on the leading edge of the grind. It's complicated to say the least.
Click to expand...

I agree...that's the way to go! I could lie and tell you there are shortcuts, but starting with a coarse diamond stone actually helps a bit.
If you have never been there go: https://scienceofsharp.wordpress.com/
It is about different edges but i find it a treasure....see the suggested grit progression and the effect on the apex.
 
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