What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Good looking knife Stromberg.
What wood did you use?
I think it goed very well for the kind of handle you made
 
Update on the takedown bowie (and another knife) I'm working on. Just finishing up on all the fittings then will be able to move onto the handle. Slow process but getting there!

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How should i go about finishing the guard, clamshell, spacers, and handle? I think nitre bluing would look darn nice with the copper but iv never done it before.:confused:

edit: It might be a bit of a challenge getting the bluing salts here in Aus. Anybody have any experience with Mark Lee Express Blue/Brown?

edit 2: Turns out i can blue with Potassium Nitrate and is apparently legal in Australia. Does anybody have any experience bluing with Potassium Nitrate?

edit 3!:rolleyes:: Potassium Nitrate is going to also be a little tough to get my hands on, so i might just use Sodium Nitrate or just blue them with a torch.
 
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It's been a while so I though I'd share a couple things I've been working on. I'm pretty much always working on various things at the same time, so I can change it up when I get tired of working on the same thing after a while. Here are a few of the projects I've had going in my shop recently.

This one is actually my first time fitting a guard, it's hard to believe I'm only now trying my hand at it after 7+ years. The voids in the wrought iron have been messing with me a bit and can make it hard to tell if there's a gap or if it's just from the voids already in the surface.

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This one is also my first try at a Japanese WA handle. The wood is stabilized Indonesian Ebony from Burl Source and the spacer is stainless taken from an old beat up Spyderco's liner. The pre-skeletonized liners helped a lot with having a dowel in the center ;)

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And here I was just messing around making some small handles for some of my files using some old, scrap, fire wood that I had saved a number of years ago. I got the idea for this geometrically shaped handle from Crimson Guitars and just had to make a couple for myself.

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~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been a few years since my last upload)
 
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Been a while since I posted here. Another one done for Christmas. AEB-L at a HARD 61rc. Large camp knife (7" blade, 12" overall length) 3/16" thick at the spine. Black G-10 scales/ red G-10 liners with black stainless "Kuraki" bolts. 7 oz leather sheath with the fancy red stitching. This is probably my best execution on a leather sheath yet. Not perfect, but good for me.

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And here's another order for Christmas. Both Kitchen knives are AEB-L at 61 RC, .091 thick at widest. Osage Orange and African Blackwood. The Kiridashi is also AEB-L.

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valknut said:
Knocked it out of the park man
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Thanks. I realized as I was contacting the buyer that I waaay undercharged for this one. I tend to do that with new models, since in the back of my head I'm thinking, "it's the first one, so it won't be very good". But then I will redo things and get it right anyway, cause i won't let crap out out of my shop. Meh.
 
Kevin McGovern said:
Thanks. I realized as I was contacting the buyer that I waaay undercharged for this one. I tend to do that with new models, since in the back of my head I'm thinking, "it's the first one, so it won't be very good". But then I will redo things and get it right anyway, cause i won't let crap out out of my shop. Meh.
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I've noticed alot of makers under price their knives. Some guys are selling some BEAUTIFUL knives for under 400 bucks that could easily go 750 and up
 
Finished up my first attempt at a puukko. Blade is forged from a John Deere mower blade (5160). I tried to carefully forge around the model number planning to try to keep It in tact. It ended up being partially into the bevel, but high enough I didn’t wipe it out grinding and sanding the bevel. I left the flats brute de forge but vinegar pickled the scale off. Bevels are hand rubbed scotch brite. Handle is cherry with a little rosewood as an accent up front. This is only my second attempt at something with a hidden tang, and I still have a lot to figure out about doing hidden tangs. I foolishly thought puukko handles should be simple, but I found this very challenging. You don’t realize how much the tang is a reference to keeping things straight and proportional until you don’t have it to reference.
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