What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Laneternnate, on your next puukko, try and have the blade a bit wider by the ricasso compared to where the belly starts
Don't have the spine and straight part of the edge parallel
That makes a big difference on the looks of a puukko
 
Here is my first post of a "finished" blade. 9.75" OAL and 5.5" tip to handle in 01. It's finished to 2000 grit on the bevels with some texture left on the flats. Only belt sharpened at 220 grit, no stones yet. I chose copper liners because after he retired my Dad made oak floor lamps with copper shades that give off a beautiful light. I inherited many sq ft of .02" copper sheet. Reading about copper liners here helped me a ton, and I selected jb weld as the epoxy, with heat tolerance to 500 degrees, useful when grinding copper. The scales are Chinese elm from a long dead branch of a tree in my front yard. Multiple coats of Danish oil so far, it's still soaking it up. Feel free to assist me with any questions, comments and suggestions. They are highly valued.

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Thanks for looking, John
 
Hengelo_77 said:
Laneternnate, on your next puukko, try and have the blade a bit wider by the ricasso compared to where the belly starts
Don't have the spine and straight part of the edge parallel
That makes a big difference on the looks of a puukko
Click to expand...
Thank you sir. It’s the nuances it seems that usually make the difference of getting the look to fully click, so I appreciate the guidance.
 
This batch of blades is almost done just need a final edge and their sheaths. Really like how the scale material came out!

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took some time to catch up on photos of recent work. All are 1084 from Aldo's.
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redwood burl -need to grind a little deeper on the Corby Bolt.

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African Blackwood--I really like working with this material.

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Oak with a little of the Tiger pattern

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Walnut -I intended leaving the knot edge in handle, but now am regretting it.
 
I figured I'd try using a jig for repetitive grinding. So I built one with stuff I had on hand. I still love the Bubble Jig, but this will be a nice complement for some grinds.

It's made out of aluminium and HDPE for the sliding action. It's about 12 inches long. I made it to be used together with a file guide. So it's easy to swap sides with the guides still attached.

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currenthill said:
I figured I'd try using a jig for repetitive grinding. So I built one with stuff I had on hand. I still love the Bubble Jig, but this will be a nice complement for some grinds.

It's made out of aluminium and HDPE for the sliding action. It's about 12 inches long. I made it to be used together with a file guide. So it's easy to swap sides with the guides still attached.
Click to expand...

I don't see a price mentioned. ? :)
That looks pretty nice. I'm starting to think about using a jig finally, just for the major metal removal on my gyuto distal tapers. It's a lot of work by hand just to get it down to rough dimensions from 3.5mm down to 1.5.
That jig looks super nice!
 
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Not really a shop so much as a plank rigged up in my back yard to act as a workbench. Using this 'bench', a filing jig and only hand-tools (with the exception of an electric hand drill) I have almost finished making my first knife.

Steel is Bohler N690 which is similar to 440c, had it heat treated professionally by the steel manufacturer. Handle is bubinga, an equatorial hard wood with red G10 liners.

Still need to finish shaping the handle and seal it. I'll make a sheath for it before I sharpen it. It's only taken me 3 months of working on it a bit each weekend.:rolleyes:





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rubberdog said:
Thanks for the compliment Geoff. The Internet was my tutor, everything's there from making a jig to hand sanding. And of course I had lots of inspiration from the experienced makers on this site.
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That's still much more of an accomplishment than having someone walk you through the process or taking a class.
I'm sure I'm not alone in having done lots of reading and still making a piece of crap for my first knife.
 
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