What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

some 52100

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Yesterday morning first thing:

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Yesterday got all the bolster material cut and prepped and many of the holes drilled. Today will finish drilling holes and start putting the bolsters on. 49 out of the 53 knives total have bolsters.
 
Horsewright said:
Yesterday got all the bolster material cut and prepped and many of the holes drilled. Today will finish drilling holes and start putting the bolsters on. 49 out of the 53 knives total have bolsters
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Like we have said - you are a wizard! Would like to see a shot when the knives are done, and laid out on the table again! :)
 
Ken H> said:
I really like the over design. To me that curve in the handle blends with the blade nicely giving the overall knife a "flowing" (maybe "graceful" is a better word?) look. Good job.
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Very much appreciated, thanks alot!
 
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Anyone remebers this? Gave it a overnight soak in 50:50 apple vineager and water, and cleaned up with 000 steel wool and wd40, after this I cleaned up with some white polish and cotton pads (not in pic). Can somebody explaind the uneven patina on non-hardenend part of the blade (decided to leave it as is)? Had to scratch the WA handle and made a framed one instead. Small impro on glue up with a cut up inner tire. Hopefully will be posting my first knife finished soon. I lost a lot of time on fitting up the stainless spacer and still not sure how good it will turn out, i had to thin the tang considerably and it was quite flexy afterwards. I am hoping that the handle (epoxy) will stiffen it up...
 
One piece of advice is to not over-clamp those scales. You can squeeze out all the epoxy and they can pop apart the first time they get hit or while grinding.

Uneven etch is caused by "bubble tracks". This is where the bubbles formed in the etch crawl up the blade sides and shield the metal from contact with the etchant. Removing the blade every so often and scrubbing it clean with a scotch-brite pad and TSP, rinse very well in hot water, then putting it back in the etchant will help prevent this look. Using a faster/better etchant like ferric chloride also helps, as it works much faster. On longer etches in FC I pull the blade and scrub off about every 5-10 minutes.

Using FC at 3:1 to 5:1 dilution from the stock solution ( 42 Baume) is the fast etchant strength for blades. This strength can patina a blade or show a hamon is seconds to minutes.
10:1 up to 15:1 is a slow etchant strength. This strength can take 5 minutes to an hour to develop the patina/hamon.

I have never been a fan of apple cider vinegar as a patina agent. White vinegar seems a bit better, but neither seem to get an even etch, with results like yours being common.
FC has always worked well for me.
On Damasteel and some stainless blades that need some darkening, I use 10:1 diluted muriatic acid (HCl), but that isn't really a good hobbyist material to fiddle with. It gives a grey effect, not black. A second long soak in FC will darken the look.
 
I might have already overdone the scales. I have a 3mm pin there, and was thinking peening it down with 2 more 2mm pins near the 3mm pin. More for the looks, but I thought, it could also help keep tang in place.

Thanks for the explanation. FC it is. I found in it in an electro appliance shopp nearby and it is cheap. I was (under wrong impression maybe) that the longer vinegar etch can create a tougher patina. I will use the knife to see how the patina holds up.

Any ideas what the mistery steel coould be? It came off a big rusty wood saw. There is too much hamon activity for 80 crv2? So probably simple carbon steel like 1075/1085? Thanks
 
Jantz's website has numerous broken links to photos and a relatively limited selection, NJSB's website won't let me change the shipping address from pickup to shipping (I've tried three browsers on two computers, a mobile browser, and called them...they're aware), Admiral doesn't sell what I want online, AKS doesn't have what I want in sizes I need...I guess my vacation projects aren't happening.
 
ten-six said:
Jantz's website has numerous broken links to photos and a relatively limited selection, NJSB's website won't let me change the shipping address from pickup to shipping (I've tried three browsers on two computers, a mobile browser, and called them...they're aware), Admiral doesn't sell what I want online, AKS doesn't have what I want in sizes I need...I guess my vacation projects aren't happening.
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What are you looking at doing? With what steel? I’d be willing to help out, I’ve successfully ordered from NJSB?
 
DustinY said:
What are you looking at doing? With what steel? I’d be willing to help out, I’ve successfully ordered from NJSB?
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I was going to try a new steel type and get some variety built up of the 1080 and 1084 that I'm familiar with and some assorted handle material to have on hand. I've got a few days off coming up and thought I'd try to get a new carry piece made for myself.

It's no big deal really. I was making More of a comment on the state of availability for the hobbyist than anything. It's not like Im missing out on sales but I appreciate the offer!
 
Tell us more details on that blown burner. is that the total burner, even part that goes into forge body? How is the gas mixed with air?
 
I sure hope that is just a mock up.
Plastic blowers and hot burner tubes don't play well together. Also, that blower looks far to weak for a good burner assembly. What size is it?
 
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