What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Working on a new run, they just came back from JT. These are 5160 at 59-60, 0.20" thick, so they're pretty beefy. LOA is 8.5/8" with black linen micarta scales, with liners. I'm happy with this one so far. My grinding is getting better little by little, the shape is good, grip is firm & the linen micarta is up to 600 grit now. Will be stopping at 800, then using a bit of WD40 for the scale color, just to darken it & smooth out the look. Blade still needs a little work, but the basic shape is there & should take a pretty good edge. Don't like the 2nd pin location, but it's where it ended up, so there's no moving it now.

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Put it on the scale, 8.45 ounces as it is now, it's Porky Pig the blade!
 
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Had a slight gap after gluing the handle so I tried to get some epoxy down in there and clamp it. I’ll check again in - day or so after it cures. Did get some hand sanding done though!
 
I don't think there's a rule for height but more of an angle. From my research, it seems like 10 to 11 degrees per side is standard. I've heard of up to 15 for harder use (seems too obtuse, mine as well do a saber grind) and as low as 7 degrees. At 10.5 degrees in 0.12" thickness, the bevel height was 0.31" on this blade. I was concerned that a 10.5 degree zero angle edge would not be strong enough but was really surprised. I told the ower to abuse it and let me know if there were issues. He got a very small chip in the tip from coring a hole in a tree. I can't imagine anything much worse for a scandi than all that sideload on the edge of the tip. I cleaned it up and used a strop to make a very small convex microbevel and it seemed to hold up great when I was trying to chip it. The microbevel is so small I use a 20x microscope to see it.

This seems like a bit of a hot topic but it seems like most scandies do have a very small micro bevel to them. Esee includes a note not to baton with their scandies. It seems like a simple grind but its difficult to get it clean. It took a while on the stones to get a nice flat bevel. At least with my limited grinding skill it did.


Natlek said:
I really like to look of that scandi edge , I never made one .I think that i will try to grind one ...is there any rule how high grind need to be ?
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scott kozub said:
I don't think there's a rule for height but more of an angle. From my research, it seems like 10 to 11 degrees per side is standard. I've heard of up to 15 for harder use (seems too obtuse, mine as well do a saber grind) and as low as 7 degrees. At 10.5 degrees in 0.12" thickness, the bevel height was 0.31" on this blade. I was concerned that a 10.5 degree zero angle edge would not be strong enough but was really surprised. I told the ower to abuse it and let me know if there were issues. He got a very small chip in the tip from coring a hole in a tree. I can't imagine anything much worse for a scandi than all that sideload on the edge of the tip. I cleaned it up and used a strop to make a very small convex microbevel and it seemed to hold up great when I was trying to chip it. The microbevel is so small I use a 20x microscope to see it.

This seems like a bit of a hot topic but it seems like most scandies do have a very small micro bevel to them. Esee includes a note not to baton with their scandies. It seems like a simple grind but its difficult to get it clean. It took a while on the stones to get a nice flat bevel. At least with my limited grinding skill it did.
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Thanks :thumbsup: At first ,it looks easy to grind ...but no room for mistakes , short bevels:D Well see what I will do this days....
 
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About have this wrapped up. Really happy with the improvements I've made between the last one and this one. I think the blade finish is a good bit better. Any tips on cleaning G10 after I've finished up? You can see in the picture it is a little dirty.
 
A handy new 8 1/4" x 1/8" Wharncliffe in 80CRV2 with Dyed Jacaranda and Leopardwood. The dyed wood reminds me of Jade. It's sitting at 220 grit on the handle and about .01 at the edge but not for long!wip.JPG
 
Hey guys, hope it's ok to chime in here...love seeing all the stuff you're working on. My "shop" is the toolbox of engraving stuff that comes to work with me on nightshifts;) Here's a pair of titanium bolsters from a Willie Paulsen lockback that I just finished engraving for my buddy @Sharp & Fiery :D

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