What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

150 mm petty. 14c28N finished with grey/VFN Scotchbrite. Black g10 and brown micarta scales at 1300 grit. CF & mosaic pins. It is being gifted to a buddy for his birthday.

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mknife said:
Hi Daniel,
please can you write more about the system that you use for to put the G10 scales on titanium liners. From the holes that I see on liners, I think that it is an interlocking system.
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They are screwed together. There are threaded inserts in the CF and the key holes are relieved on the inside like below

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Screws are screwed into the scales just over halfway and then head of screw drops into the key hole and can be slid upwards into position. Then screws are tightened from inside with a low profile torx I make
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Here is one I’m working on. This is a variant of my “Trail Boss” design. 100% freehand ground using a 14” wheel. The handle is genuine (Pre 1972 Act) walrus tusk handed down to me. I feel blessed and honored to get to work with such a unique material. Kinda sad to see this one go. I may have to keep the rest of the tusk and make a blade for myself. BDDBBCFE-F9EF-4FDD-AA08-8CE74E7ECC99.jpeg3DBFEB42-258F-4BBF-B11C-5B6D0C73B986.jpeg38008FDC-5120-45BD-99AA-F192304D6E5D.jpeg
 
Second attempt at a kitchen knife...

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Blade
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Pieces
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Back of bolster
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Fit up, not quite perfect yet...
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Dry run...
The bolster is horn and brass, the handle is cocobolo and there will be a black and brass mosaic pin. It's a wedding present for a friend.
 
Been working on this cleaver for over two years. Finally sharpening. Just need to finish sheath and finish sharpening. For my scuba and camping bro. Had to make a new acid tank. Used Stacy’s tip of the closet flange and it worked perfectly. The acid ate away at the corby pins a little so they aren’t flush with the micarta anymore. Not sure what happened there.
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Thanks Cush! The clouds aren't as 'billowy' as I'm looking for. But hopefully I'm my worst critic.
 
Dominick,
A tip on the handle - make the end of the scales at an angle from about 1/4" forward on the spine curving back to the neck. This has a more pleasing look.
Also, rounding the neck from that sharp 90° into a radiused transition makes it more comfortable in use.


IMG_20200806_135212.jpg Dominick,
 
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Here's a new hunter WIP in 80CRV2 with a sculpted Leopardwood handle ready for final finishing. it's around 220 grit now, going to 1200 overall. WIP.JPG It's been a while since the Egyptian made it into the sheath rotation.
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Dominick,
A tip on the handle - make the end of the scales at an angle from about 1/4" forward on the spine curving back to the neck. This has a more pleasing look.
Also, rounding the neck from that sharp 90° into a radiused transition makes it more comfortable in use.


View attachment 1393078 Dominick,
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Thanks for the tips! I definitely should have done that. I started this thing on a 1x30 from HF. I am so glad its almost done. I will probably not be making knives this big again. It took approximately 15 hours of hand sanding to get just to 220 grit. I am still learning the 2x72. Thanks again.
 
Dominick Maone said:
Thanks for the tips! I definitely should have done that. I started this thing on a 1x30 from HF. I am so glad its almost done. I will probably not be making knives this big again. It took approximately 15 hours of hand sanding to get just to 220 grit. I am still learning the 2x72. Thanks again.
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15 hours! Ouch. Lot of steel to get flat after the old 1x30. Thats been the biggest noticeable thing for me with a proper grinder is just how much flatter the piece comes off the machine and how much faster hand sanding happens. Push stick grinding has helpede heaps with this also
 
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