What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

TheEdge01 said:
This one has a 1084 carbon steel blade, black G10 liners, G10 pins, and a brass guard.
FEA0-F958-F144-4-EA4-AFCF-D1860373-A880.jpg
Click to expand...

Very elegant!!
 
Just putting the final touches on this new to me style I'm calling the Kaibab Kommando. The Kaibab Plateau is north of the Grand Canyon, a very isolated region with limited accessibility (real mountain man country). 80CRV2 with nickel silver faceted guard, Acacia/Elk and powdered stone accents. Still have to trim the pins and some finesse work but mostly done. Still plenty of time to screw something up though.w1.jpg w2.jpg w3.jpg
 
Finally pulled the plug and got a new toy to up my pattern welding game, so had to learn/practice a little TIG welding without using filler rod. Here's a picture of 5 pieces of 15N20 scraps that I ground clean, stacked and clamped and fused all around.
20210320_161924.jpg
The plan is to forge weld this into a solid 1" x 6"x ~0.40" billet of 15N20 for future projects. I'm curious if anyone knows if the heat oxidation that's obvious on the outside, and so also present on the inside 5 layers) will prevent forge welding?
Time to make some canoes....
 
John Cahoon said:
Just putting the final touches on this new to me style I'm calling the Kaibab Kommando. The Kaibab Plateau is north of the Grand Canyon, a very isolated region with limited accessibility (real mountain man country). 80CRV2 with nickel silver faceted guard, Acacia/Elk and powdered stone accents. Still have to trim the pins and some finesse work but mostly done. Still plenty of time to screw something up though.View attachment 1530999 View attachment 1531000 View attachment 1531001
Click to expand...
Looks Good, I like it!
how many times you spend? to make it perfect
 
Scales glued on and started shaping them yesterday. Didn't realize how soft micarta is. May have to use something a little more hardy as my belt grinding skills need work, LOL. So far very happy with the look and feel of it. Now I just need to finish shaping and polishing by hand.
Quick question: Even though I cleaned up the blade edge of the scales after glue up, there is still a little G-Flex residue there after it dried. Can I just sand that off with high grit sand paper? It's kinda hard to get to and I don't want to screw up the finish.
 
Ron Raducanu said:
Scales glued on and started shaping them yesterday. Didn't realize how soft micarta is. May have to use something a little more hardy as my belt grinding skills need work, LOL. So far very happy with the look and feel of it. Now I just need to finish shaping and polishing by hand.
Quick question: Even though I cleaned up the blade edge of the scales after glue up, there is still a little G-Flex residue there after it dried. Can I just sand that off with high grit sand paper? It's kinda hard to get to and I don't want to screw up the finish.
Click to expand...
Try a q-tip and acetone.
 
Ron Raducanu said:
Scales glued on and started shaping them yesterday. Didn't realize how soft micarta is. May have to use something a little more hardy as my belt grinding skills need work, LOL. So far very happy with the look and feel of it. Now I just need to finish shaping and polishing by hand.
Quick question: Even though I cleaned up the blade edge of the scales after glue up, there is still a little G-Flex residue there after it dried. Can I just sand that off with high grit sand paper? It's kinda hard to get to and I don't want to screw up the finish.
Click to expand...
I've used brass pin stock and ground the tip so it resembles a chisel. Worked well enough and did not leave scratches.
 
weo said:
I'm curious if anyone knows if the heat oxidation that's obvious on the outside, and so also present on the inside 5 layers) will prevent forge welding?
Time to make some canoes....
Click to expand...
Welding is welding , no mater what you use for that . I think that you will have no problem with forge welding .For san-mai we do same thing and welding is no problem .Probably heat oxidation from inside is much less , because there is almost no air ............?
 
Blackdirt cowboy said:
It depends on how thick it is. If it’s just a very thin layer, the acetone will take it right off. If it’s thick and globby, you’ll need the scrape it off with a soft tool like mentioned above and then hit it with acetone.
Click to expand...

I can only really see it when I shine light on it. It's very thin. Thanks!
 
Richard338 said:
A scrap piece of 3V left over from my Smatchet in progress.
bqqQ95U.jpg

fQqoq2l.jpg
Click to expand...
If this one is first one you make , you would like it . Whenever i need knife to cut something I grab wharncliffe , although there are a dozen other knife around ... there must be reason why i do that :)
I like it !
I think that tomorrow i will make other one, bigger one this time ...
m8eJ5p1.jpg
 
Last edited:
^ I made one a long time ago like the one you are planning. It has been in my office for years and probably peeled a few hundred apples.
 
Natlek said:
My first 52100 bainite :p What would you use for guard , stainless ...bronze or copper ...or what ? Wood is mulberry , sweet yellow color ..picture does not show the true color:mad:
I just start shaping handle ..........
FVdZKFr.jpg
Click to expand...
Solid 24k gold, make sure to catch the chips when drilling :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top