What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Natlek said:
because there is almost no air ............?
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I'm hoping, but we have to recognize that even though they were clamped together during the welding, there was still atmosphere and air that the layers were exposed to until the weld was completed on all 4 sides.
 
FredyCro said:
Solid 24k gold, make sure to catch the chips when drilling :D
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Like it .........:)
I would do that ,but on other knives ,when I start to work on knives for my kids ;) Damasteel odin's eye for daughter and Thor Damasteel for my son............but I am not ready with oven for stainless ...........yet :(
I have lot of cheap big silver coins ......you just give me idea for next project :eek:
 
weo said:
I'm hoping, but we have to recognize that even though they were clamped together during the welding, there was still atmosphere and air that the layers were exposed to until the weld was completed on all 4 sides.
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That s why i said almost no air ..........
It would work 1000 % :) If I could weld a few pieces of san mai from the first, it will be much , much easier for you ;)
PS .I forgot that i was weld some piece of HSS steel for core with staimless from side .I weld just one side ,about inch and something weld just to see if hardened HSS will not crack ...........It not crack , but I break them and inside was very little/shallow visible heat oxidation....i think i have picture somewhere
 
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Finally some forgings and a repair came in

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HSC /// said:
Finally some forgings and a repair came in
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LOL. Re the repair .... something like that happened when my wife decided that a relatively soft chinese cleaver, intended for cutting vegetables, was really intended for hammering through chicken bones. somewhat low rockwell, and I had the edge at something like 10-15 degrees per side. ouch :-)
 
Cushing H. said:
LOL. Re the repair .... something like that happened when my wife decided that a relatively soft chinese cleaver, intended for cutting vegetables, was really intended for hammering through chicken bones. somewhat low rockwell, and I had the edge at something like 10-15 degrees per side. ouch :)
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This is 26c3 from a pro chef who has 4-5 of my knives and is about to receive 4 more. He has quite a collection of knives from big makers. He owns 2 restaurants and a bowling alley. I believe he said this happened on the spine of a fish.

Easy fix

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HSC /// said:
This is 26c3 from a pro chef who has 4-5 of my knives and is about to receive 4 more. He has quite a collection of knives from big makers. He owns 2 restaurants and a bowling alley. I believe he said this happened on the spine of a fish.

Easy fix

qWHQVaV.jpg
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That turned out well. Did you thin the bevel out, or just grind back the edge and accept the higher TBE? ( if I know you, I would say you ground back the edge then reground the bevel to reduce the TBE ...). ?
 
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Cushing H. said:
That turned out well. Did you thin the bevel out, or just grind back the edge and accept the higher TBE? ( if I know you, I would say you ground back the edge then regrouped the bevel to reduce the TBE ...). ?
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This knife was already so thin it would have been ok with just grinding out the chip. I did it by hand on a 200 grit stone.
So then I did a quick thinning of 200 to 320 grit stones and then hand sanded and then simichrome polish
 
Wrapping this one up


Here is the run down. CPM 154, cryo 62c, hollow ground hand sanded to 600 grit, bushing, milled liners with milling glass bead blasted and flats jeweled. Flush 3 positions, 1/2 stop, double pinned stainless shield, stainless pins and bolsters, bolster at 1200 grit. End cut micarta with hand jigging Easy to open and snaps shut....I think that is it
 
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Handles are all done. Shaped and polished!
Now, I just have to work up the courage to sharpen the thing, and it'll be done. Not sure why I'm so nervous about the procedure. I've been sharpening my kitchen knives for years, LOL.
 
AVigil said:
Wrapping this one up


Here is the run down. CPM 154, cryo 62c, hollow ground hand sanded to 600 grit, bushing, milled liners with milling glass bead blasted and flats jeweled. Flush 3 positions, 1/2 stop, double pinned stainless shield, stainless pins and bolsters, bolster at 1200 grit. Easy to open and snaps shut....I think that is it
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Man, that's really nice. I think, somehow, your style really speaks to me. Beautiful stuff.
 
59.jpg 55.jpg 79.jpg 93.jpg 98.jpg 105.jpg 109.jpg 111.jpg 117.jpg 118.jpg Yesterday I erected the automated semaphore in the front of the shop. This was first put in service in Erie, PA in 1921. It was later moved to Norfolk. VA and was removed from service in 2005. It was the last automated semaphore unit in service in the entire Norfolk and Southern system ... which from what I hear owns most every RR system east of the big muddy. It was shortened to fit in the N&S museum on the ground floor of the N&S HQ in Norfolk, VA ... and was there until Norfolk & Southern RR moved its headquarters to Atlanta, GA last year. They moved a bunch of the small stuff, and lefyt all the big heavy items. Through a friend I received a lot of cool stuff. - a HUGE piston from a diesel locomotive, a set of RR car couplers, A big rock from a trestle support, dozens of vintage RR photos, an 8' by 6' backlight silk panel photo and support frame of a locomotive, locomotive headlights, a diesel locomotive training simulator unit (really cool), and the automated semaphore unit. I also received a three piece truss/gantry that held signs in the museum. It will frame the shop door and have lights and signs on it. There may be more small stuff coming in a couple months when the are ready to empty the building completely.

I dug out the pit for a 30" deep concrete pad under the semaphore with 6" deep concrete across the rest of the shop front. I welded up a support base in the pit with 1" threaded studs to mount the semaphore and then poured the concrete. This thing ain't never gonna move!
Some other makers and friends came over last weekend ad we moved the unit onto the pad and bolted it down. We did it by muscle power and leverage. The mast was too awkward and unbalanced to raise by hand. We drank a few beers and the group left. I dug pits to place the couplers in which I will fill with concrete. I made lifting trusses for everything and called it a day.

Yesterday I had a friend with a crane come over and we put the two couplers in their pits, moved the huge rock, and then put the mast on the unit. That took 30 minutes. They left, and I mixed the concrete and filled the pits around the couplers. I installed lighting inside the glass front upper section that holds the mechanical parts. The bottom is all relays and some new electronics the museum had build to make the unit operate by a foot switch.

I will install the mechanical unit the runs the semaphore and controls the vane next week. It is amazing. I'll post those photos later.

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