- Joined
- Mar 10, 2013
- Messages
- 1,074
Lorien, how'd you get those big fat swooping plunges?
The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
Just finished this one up. It's 0.118" AEB-L with walnut scales and 304 stainless steel pins. The tang is both skeletonized and tapered down to 0.025" resulting in a final weight of 69.7g (2.46 oz) for a 3-1/2" blade and 8" overall length. The balance point is just behind the front pin, right under the index finger relief.
I haven't gotten that far. This one wasn't intended to be an ultralight application, just a well balanced full sized knife, shaving weight where it wouldn't compromise functionality in any way. I have a leather sheath for this pattern knife I'll be using for the time being.What ultralight sheath are you planning?
I recently picked up some 0.03" kydex. With 1/8" rivets it makes for a very light sheath.I haven't gotten that far. This one wasn't intended to be an ultralight application, just a well balanced full sized knife, shaving weight where it wouldn't compromise functionality in any way. I have a leather sheath for this pattern knife I'll be using for the time being.
Looks awesome man. Do you taper the tang before or after heat treat? I have a hunter and bird N trout pair in rwl 34 in the works that I would like to have a crack at tapering the tangs. Wondering if the tapered tang would interfere with the plate quench to much.
Just finished this one up. It's 0.118" AEB-L with walnut scales and 304 stainless steel pins. The tang is both skeletonized and tapered down to 0.025" resulting in a final weight of 69.7g (2.46 oz) for a 3-1/2" blade and 8" overall length. The balance point is just behind the front pin, right under the index finger relief.
My order of operations was this:Looks awesome man. Do you taper the tang before or after heat treat? I have a hunter and bird N trout pair in rwl 34 in the works that I would like to have a crack at tapering the tangs. Wondering if the tapered tang would interfere with the plate quench to much.
I use baby wet wipes for small squeeze out around the handle.what works best for epoxy, denatured alcohol, acetone?
Great suggestion. I used to use them on knives, but also other things like target shooting to wipe hands before lunch. It's best to compare a few brands. I remember some didn't hold together well and had too much soap or lotion on them. I haven't bought them in a while now that the kids are handling their own squeeze out...I use baby wet wipes for small squeeze out around the handle.
What file guide is that? Do you like it? How wide of a blade would fit in it? I think I'm in the market for a new one. I made my own out of 01 steel a few years back but I didn't really make it wide enough for the chef knives I've been doing since then.Just took delivery of a bunch of 40 grit Bora-7 belts. Amazed at how they rip out hardened steel. Not going back to 60 grit again.
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Oof, the thought of hitting a hardened blade with a hammer scares the crap outta me! I have always corrected my warp during tempering by clamping it to a straightening jig.I haven't been getting in the shop much last few weeks but trying to change that. Started off tonight by finally making a carbide peening hammer for straightening AEB-L. Took a significant warp out of this chef knife so I can start grinding it.
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You’ll find a lot of references on this site to straightening stainless steels with carbide hammers because steels like AEB-L don’t respond to clamping during tempering. They will stubbornly retain their warp. Using a carbide hammer is a very effective technique.Oof, the thought of hitting a hardened blade with a hammer scares the crap outta me! I have always corrected my warp during tempering by clamping it to a straightening jig.
What file guide is that? Do you like it? How wide of a blade would fit in it? I think I'm in the market for a new one. I made my own out of 01 steel a few years back but I didn't really make it wide enough for the chef knives I've been doing since then.
Your knife grind looks super clean, nice work!
Yeah I know, I'm not saying it's not an effective technique. Just saying it scares me.You’ll find a lot of references on this site to straightening stainless steels with carbide hammers because steels like AEB-L don’t respond to clamping during tempering. They will stubbornly retain their warp. Using a carbide hammer is a very effective technique.