What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

single phase motor. My grinder motor is also single phase
as for the plunge, it's tough to describe how but there is a lot of filing involved. I'd like to be able to do this with the grinder, and I can get partway there, but my competence with that machine is still pretty low
 




Just finished this one up. It's 0.118" AEB-L with walnut scales and 304 stainless steel pins. The tang is both skeletonized and tapered down to 0.025" resulting in a final weight of 69.7g (2.46 oz) for a 3-1/2" blade and 8" overall length. The balance point is just behind the front pin, right under the index finger relief.
 




Just finished this one up. It's 0.118" AEB-L with walnut scales and 304 stainless steel pins. The tang is both skeletonized and tapered down to 0.025" resulting in a final weight of 69.7g (2.46 oz) for a 3-1/2" blade and 8" overall length. The balance point is just behind the front pin, right under the index finger relief.

What ultralight sheath are you planning?
 
What ultralight sheath are you planning?
I haven't gotten that far. This one wasn't intended to be an ultralight application, just a well balanced full sized knife, shaving weight where it wouldn't compromise functionality in any way. I have a leather sheath for this pattern knife I'll be using for the time being.
 
I haven't gotten that far. This one wasn't intended to be an ultralight application, just a well balanced full sized knife, shaving weight where it wouldn't compromise functionality in any way. I have a leather sheath for this pattern knife I'll be using for the time being.
I recently picked up some 0.03" kydex. With 1/8" rivets it makes for a very light sheath.
 
Just took delivery of a bunch of 40 grit Bora-7 belts. Amazed at how they rip out hardened steel. Not going back to 60 grit again.
0aaiUDe.jpg
 




Just finished this one up. It's 0.118" AEB-L with walnut scales and 304 stainless steel pins. The tang is both skeletonized and tapered down to 0.025" resulting in a final weight of 69.7g (2.46 oz) for a 3-1/2" blade and 8" overall length. The balance point is just behind the front pin, right under the index finger relief.
Looks awesome man. Do you taper the tang before or after heat treat? I have a hunter and bird N trout pair in rwl 34 in the works that I would like to have a crack at tapering the tangs. Wondering if the tapered tang would interfere with the plate quench to much.
 
Looks awesome man. Do you taper the tang before or after heat treat? I have a hunter and bird N trout pair in rwl 34 in the works that I would like to have a crack at tapering the tangs. Wondering if the tapered tang would interfere with the plate quench to much.
My order of operations was this:
- Profile and skeletonize tang
- Heat treat (plate quench)
- Grind bevels
- Taper tang (surface grinding attachment)
- Glue then shape scales
- Finish handle
- Sharpen (still remains to do)

Edit: I also wouldn't be too worried about the plate quench efficacy because the blade should be cooled properly; if the tang isn't perfectly hardened it shouldn't matter much. The important consideration there is that you should re-flatten the tang before gluing scales to make sure you didn't pick up a warp that will cause poor scale adhesion.
 
I use baby wet wipes for small squeeze out around the handle.
Great suggestion. I used to use them on knives, but also other things like target shooting to wipe hands before lunch. It's best to compare a few brands. I remember some didn't hold together well and had too much soap or lotion on them. I haven't bought them in a while now that the kids are handling their own squeeze out...
 
Just took delivery of a bunch of 40 grit Bora-7 belts. Amazed at how they rip out hardened steel. Not going back to 60 grit again.
0aaiUDe.jpg
What file guide is that? Do you like it? How wide of a blade would fit in it? I think I'm in the market for a new one. I made my own out of 01 steel a few years back but I didn't really make it wide enough for the chef knives I've been doing since then.

Your knife grind looks super clean, nice work!
 
I haven't been getting in the shop much last few weeks but trying to change that. Started off tonight by finally making a carbide peening hammer for straightening AEB-L. Took a significant warp out of this chef knife so I can start grinding it.

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Oof, the thought of hitting a hardened blade with a hammer scares the crap outta me! I have always corrected my warp during tempering by clamping it to a straightening jig.
 
Oof, the thought of hitting a hardened blade with a hammer scares the crap outta me! I have always corrected my warp during tempering by clamping it to a straightening jig.
You’ll find a lot of references on this site to straightening stainless steels with carbide hammers because steels like AEB-L don’t respond to clamping during tempering. They will stubbornly retain their warp. Using a carbide hammer is a very effective technique.
 
What file guide is that? Do you like it? How wide of a blade would fit in it? I think I'm in the market for a new one. I made my own out of 01 steel a few years back but I didn't really make it wide enough for the chef knives I've been doing since then.

Your knife grind looks super clean, nice work!

Thanks!

The file guide is by Creativeman Australia. I have nothing to complain about. I just measured and it will take up to just under 70 mm width.
 
Getting my TJ Lam handle material figured out! Different molds and making sure the top plate will compress far enough down and not hit the mold walls made a big difference.
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You’ll find a lot of references on this site to straightening stainless steels with carbide hammers because steels like AEB-L don’t respond to clamping during tempering. They will stubbornly retain their warp. Using a carbide hammer is a very effective technique.
Yeah I know, I'm not saying it's not an effective technique. Just saying it scares me.
 
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