What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Hengelo_77 said:
First time grinding freehand. No jigs, no file guide, no bubble jig, just the blank on the belt at low speed.
What a difference variable speed makes!
Enough room for improvement, but I'm happy for a first attempt.
Just a fun project for myself. The blade is 4 5/8" and the false edge is unsharpened. With these specs it is legal to carry where I live (Germany).
The bevels are finished at 400 grit and the false edge at 1500 grit.


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Nice job!
 
weo said:
It's not hard at all. If you do clamp tightly, then you should be thankful (and continue to pray) that you haven't had one of your knives fail yet.
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Agreed. I've definitely learned the hard way unfortunately...
 
weo said:
It's not hard at all. If you do clamp tightly, then you should be thankful (and continue to pray) that you haven't had one of your knives fail yet.
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It works great, with the amount of pressure I have applied. And I have done some serious hammering and bending on the blades. Maybe you think I'm clamping harder than I am, or maybe you guys where doing something wrong in your glue up process?

And where is this critical thickness of epoxy, where less would make a weaker bond? Surely there is no linear relation between bond strength and thickness of epoxy.
 
Scaniaman said:
It works great, with the amount of pressure I have applied. And I have done some serious hammering and bending on the blades. Maybe you think I'm clamping harder than I am, or maybe you guys where doing something wrong in your glue up process?

And where is this critical thickness of epoxy, where less would make a weaker bond? Surely there is no linear relation between bond strength and thickness of epoxy.
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I don't think there is a linear relationship, but there is certainly a optimum glue gap. With most epoxies that I've seen numbers for it's a couple thousanths of an inch...

This is what west systems has to say about clamping in their "how to" section of their product brochure.

Clamp components. Attach clamps as necessary to hold the components in place. Use just enough clamping pressure to squeeze a small amount of the epoxy mixture from the joint, indicating that the epoxy is making good contact with both mating surfaces (Figure 11). Avoid using too much clamping pressure, which can squeeze all of the epoxy mixture out of the joint.

So yeah clamping pressure makes a difference, but if you're having success doing what you're doing, obviously you're not using too much pressure.
 
Scaniaman said:
Maybe you think I'm clamping harder than I am, or maybe you guys where doing something wrong in your glue up process?
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Or maybe it's neither of these, and we were only making comments for those who don't have the experience to warn them against the dangers of not realizing that clamping too tightly is a bad idea.
 
weo said:
Or maybe it's neither of these, and we were only making comments for those who don't have the experience to warn them against the dangers of not realizing that clamping too tightly is a bad idea.
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If you have one of your knives fail how you know that reason was to much clamping force ?
To much clamping force in small area of wood can make harm , they will make scale to bow in that place but epoxy would be still there .....
Many exotic wood are quite oily and are hard to glue ? Tang preparation, size and shape of scratches , is the epoxy ratio good, have you mixed long enough , ambient temperature..........many factor are involved ?
If you mirror polish two pieces of steel and glued them with best epoxy on the world I would split them hammering them with cigarette .......... And that is true ! So what hold epoxy on tang/steel are SCRATCHES , my friend . From wood side , some wood like walnut for example will soak epoxy inside if you give epoxy some time ....So epoxy soaked in wood and scratches is what will hold that assembly .Thickness of epoxy layer between them don t matter that much how that joint would hold up but thinner is better . Do it right and you will end up with thin wood on tang when you break them apart .How thick is epoxy between them seems don t matter , don t you think ?
Which scratches will better hold epoxy 1 or 2 shape ?
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This is my mold for micarta or carbon scale .Steel has mirror finish and it is nickel-plated ................. when I disassemble it to remove the carbon scale , there is absolutely no trace of epoxy glued on steel and no need to clean the mold from epoxy, it just doesn’t stick !!
Why ?
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eric brinkerhoff said:
Very nice! I've been working on designing a good looking Wharncliffe style knife myself. It's hard to get a Wharncliffe to look great!
Here's mine in 52100...
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Thank you. I like to give the sheepfoot/wharncliff (I don't know if there's a difference between the two) a bit of belly and raise the handle a bit.
That's a good looking blade you have there!
 
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