What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I love the ole chop n twist avocado pit removal method. The best part is once the pit's free and stuck to your blade you can fling that pit across the yard

speaking of flinging things across the yard; this knife has been kicking my ass for way too long but today I pulled the boss card, and got those pin holes and pins to play nice. I always laugh at FiF when the guy forgets to drill pin holes. Mine were just drilled a little on the small side. Hardened steel is a sumbitch.
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so finicky, but finally got everything fitted. Turning down those thin wall brass pins was tedious, but my tolerances are very nice and tight. Still got some little things to do to the slabs before everything gets glued up permanently
 
Lorien said:
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so finicky, but finally got everything fitted. Turning down those thin wall brass pins was tedious, but my tolerances are very nice and tight. Still got some little things to do to the slabs before everything gets glued up permanently
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I like the pins snug in the micarta but slightly loose in the tang. I'd hate to be mashing those thin walled tubes and with glue everywhere if it gets stubborn at the last minute.
 
Richard338 said:
I like the pins snug in the micarta but slightly loose in the tang. I'd hate to be mashing those thin walled tubes and with glue everywhere if it gets stubborn at the last minute.
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100%
 
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Hand sanding 62rc PSF27. This one is going to have to be a shop knife🤦‍♂️

Trying some qualichem coolant for a hand sanding lube since I ran out of wd40. Works really well except it seems to degrade the adhesive on the sandpaper and leave sticky gummy bits on the blade.
 
FredyCro said:
I do that all the time with all my knives, and cant really grasp that big chip coming from that.
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I mean, there's the obvious possibility that I screwed up the heat treatment, but it was 1084 and certainly not my first time, so I doubt it. I know the customer personally and have no reason to question his explanation of how it happened. The blade is (or was, rather) no more than .005" thick behind the edge and .095" at the spine, so it seems likely enough to me with some careless usage.
 
Buddy wanted a glow in the dark camo handle. He wanted blue glow, so I went with brown and green burlap so the epoxy would have a place to show better. Did a 5/16" OD, 1/4" ID pin and filled it with the same epoxy/pigment.

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It's going on a 5160 chisel pry knife, hoping to finish it this coming week!
 
AVigil said:
I find Windex works the best for me.
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That's also what Kyle Royer uses... But with the paper I use I've found that a light weight oil (wd40 or equivalent) makes it cut a lot cleaner, better, and longer. But maybe it's the paper I dunno, I use a SiC wet/dry paper 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
Finished a couple more. CPM-D2. One walnut the other tulipwood.
The etching is giving me fits. Seems no matter how well I think I tape the edges of the stencil a small amount of electrolyte creeps out and leaves a mark somewhere on the edge of the stencil.
May try a different tape other than electrical.

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