What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

15 days ago, the Greek post offices were hacked and ever since then I cannot ship any orders. This gave me some time to try out again the no clay hamon.
I'm quite pleased with the results. That's 1000grit so far, the more I polish, the more details come to life!

 
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got these scales all ready for glue up
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and glued em up last night
 
Working on this big boy in s30v. This is a blade I made about 5 years ago and lost. Then I found it and refined the shape, then it sat around some more because I wasn't sure about s30v for such a big knife(at the time s30v was all I had). Eventually I said the heck with it and sent it off to Peters and it just came back at 61HRC. It's pretty darn thin down there at the edge so , despite its commando looks it's really going to be more of a slicer. Maybe some sort of a big game skinner.1649196434350.jpg1649196561265.jpg1649196765894.jpg1649196892047.jpg1649197001670.jpg1649197211611.jpg
 
REK Knives said:
Curious... What made you settle on that specific laser? Do they have good support?
Click to expand...
Surveyed FB groups and YouTube, wanted to buy form a company and not an individual, settled with Mactron. From the 3 major fiber laser source brands JPT is the most versatile and best quality, behind it there is Raycus which many consider a very good brand and then MAX which I read everywhere that needs to be avoided...

Pablo
 
got a handle roughed in this evening
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this is the furthest I've gone with a machine, I've chickened out in the past and gone to files once the planes are machined in. Balls deep tonight!
 
FredyCro said:
You guys are keeping busy.

I am slowly returning from my shoulder injury. Started with some simple designs in 2.5 M2 steel cut out from metal saws. They are testing at 65 HRC. Man, these really don't like drilling and grinding.

Lost in the first round trying to drill these but had more luck after resharpening the higher quality masonry bits. Less speed and more patience, I might not cause discoloration next time. Ordered some cheap full carbide and carbide tipped drill bits for the future. In the meantime, masonry bits will do the job.

h3UXDAg.jpeg

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N Natlek you mentioned using drill bits for tiles? Anything special? Do you sharpen them? Do they break? What speed do you use? Dry or which lube? Thanks for any tips.
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If you have problem with grinding M2 you are doing something wrong or you have bad belts .I can grind 30 knives like this one on your picture before I feel that belt is starting to slows down , and another 30 after that .....Have you ever tried Klingspor belts ? I will not use other belts even if they give me for free , or I want to know if other belts are better then Klingspor . This one work prefect for me ....I just buy some belts

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If you sharpen properly masonry bits, they will drill like in butter in that M2. Look here , steel is M2
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-masonry-drills.1540592/

I use this one Fredy ,from Alpen Austria so you can easy found them there. They are ready to drill any known steel at any hardness ...

48KuwAx.jpg


I drill everything on slowest speed / 600 rpm / I have on my small drill press , I hate to change gears on the drill press ............Everything break , Fredy , be careful at the end of drilling ,when tip of bits breaks through the other side , then they break most easily . To avoid that use piece of hard steel under the steel you drill ........I drill dry
This is 4.5mm S30V on 62 HRC , I have not 5mm ceramic tile drill bits so I drill holes for pins with 4mm Alpen drill bits .Then I sharpened 5 mm cheap masonry drill bits and drill/open on 5 mm that holes..........

pHqxyGN.jpg
 
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eric brinkerhoff said:
Working on this big boy in s30v. This is a blade I made about 5 years ago and lost. Then I found it and refined the shape, then it sat around some more because I wasn't sure about s30v for such a big knife(at the time s30v was all I had). Eventually I said the heck with it and sent it off to Peters and it just came back at 61HRC. It's pretty darn thin down there at the edge so , despite its commando looks it's really going to be more of a slicer. Maybe some sort of a big game skinner.View attachment 1785531View attachment 1785532View attachment 1785533View attachment 1785534View attachment 1785535View attachment 1785536
Click to expand...
Nice "Old School" blade shape.......Haha
Would make a nice sidekick to a Remington 870P
 
FredyCro said:
You guys are keeping busy.

I am slowly returning from my shoulder injury. Started with some simple designs in 2.5 M2 steel cut out from metal saws. They are testing at 65 HRC. Man, these really don't like drilling and grinding.

Lost in the first round trying to drill these but had more luck after resharpening the higher quality masonry bits. Less speed and more patience, I might not cause discoloration next time. Ordered some cheap full carbide and carbide tipped drill bits for the future. In the meantime, masonry bits will do the job.

h3UXDAg.jpeg

2kDKqiZ.jpeg


N Natlek you mentioned using drill bits for tiles? Anything special? Do you sharpen them? Do they break? What speed do you use? Dry or which lube? Thanks for any tips.
Click to expand...
Full carbide will change your life! Keep the speed really fast with lots of smooth steady pressure, and make sure it's as rock solid of a setup as possible. Any chattering will chip the drill in no time. I had a Sandvik tooling trainer tell me to think of carbide like concrete: it can handle tons of pressure if applied smoothly, but impact from a sledgehammer will chip it relatively easily.
 
FredyCro said:
You guys are keeping busy.

I am slowly returning from my shoulder injury. Started with some simple designs in 2.5 M2 steel cut out from metal saws. They are testing at 65 HRC. Man, these really don't like drilling and grinding.

Lost in the first round trying to drill these but had more luck after resharpening the higher quality masonry bits. Less speed and more patience, I might not cause discoloration next time. Ordered some cheap full carbide and carbide tipped drill bits for the future. In the meantime, masonry bits will do the job.

h3UXDAg.jpeg

2kDKqiZ.jpeg


N Natlek you mentioned using drill bits for tiles? Anything special? Do you sharpen them? Do they break? What speed do you use? Dry or which lube? Thanks for any tips.
Click to expand...
next time try using a solid carbide burr to drill the holes ..it goes pretty well and does not burn up the hole.. you can get the 1/4 ish size everywhere.. from welding shops to hardware stores
 
Natlek said:
If you have problem with grinding M2 you are doing something wrong or you have bad belts .I can grind 30 knives like this one on your picture before I feel that belt is starting to slows down , and another 30 after that .....Have you ever tried Klingspor belts ? I will not use other belts even if they give me for free , or I want to know if other belts are better then Klingspor . This one work prefect for me ....I just buy some belts

WLGpBrW.jpg

9IKaUpJ.jpg


If you sharpen properly masonry bits, they will drill like in butter in that M2. Look here , steel is M2
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/sharpening-masonry-drills.1540592/

I use this one Fredy ,from Alpen Austria so you can easy found them there. They are ready to drill any known steel at any hardness ...

48KuwAx.jpg


I drill everything on slowest speed / 600 rpm / I have on my small drill press , I hate to change gears on the drill press ............Everything break , Fredy , be careful at the end of drilling ,when tip of bits breaks through the other side , then they break most easily . To avoid that use piece of hard steel under the steel you drill ........I drill dry
This is 4.5mm S30V on 62 HRC , I have not 5mm ceramic tile drill bits so I drill holes for pins with 4mm Alpen drill bits .Then I sharpened 5 mm cheap masonry drill bits and drill/open on 5 mm that holes..........

pHqxyGN.jpg
Click to expand...
Great info, yeah, i had some reallt cheap masonry bits, they were no good, even sharpened.
Next were metabo masonry, I ruined one trying to sharpen free hand on stone, then i put the initial edge with a stone cutting disk in an angle grinder mounted in the vice. Had clean tip and facets, I just polished and deburred them on diamond stone.

I will try those bits you posted, they look sharp!


Michael Black said:
Full carbide will change your life! Keep the speed really fast with lots of smooth steady pressure, and make sure it's as rock solid of a setup as possible. Any chattering will chip the drill in no time. I had a Sandvik tooling trainer tell me to think of carbide like concrete: it can handle tons of pressure if applied smoothly, but impact from a sledgehammer will chip it relatively easily.
Click to expand...

Even from china they are like 10 dollars a piece, we will see if i am gentle enough. I have a small machining vice and the new to me japanese kira drill press (must be from the 70ties :)) is sturdy. I hope it will work wine.

Pinoy Knife said:
next time try using a solid carbide burr to drill the holes ..it goes pretty well and does not burn up the hole.. you can get the 1/4 ish size everywhere.. from welding shops to hardware stores
Click to expand...
Thats also good advice, was also thinking about those diamond drill bits for tiles, but the good ones are expensive and cheap ones probably not worth the trouble.
 
N Natlek as for the grinding i tried grinding the flats with a magnet and 120 belt to a nice finish and the new Bora ceramic belt was just sliding over them. I think the surface is too big to put enough pressure, haven't tried the bevels yet, but it should go easier i suppose.
 
FredyCro said:
Great info, yeah, i had some reallt cheap masonry bits, they were no good, even sharpened.
Next were metabo masonry, I ruined one trying to sharpen free hand on stone, then i put the initial edge with a stone cutting disk in an angle grinder mounted in the vice. Had clean tip and facets, I just polished and deburred them on diamond stone.

I will try those bits you posted, they look sharp!




Even from china they are like 10 dollars a piece, we will see if i am gentle enough. I have a small machining vice and the new to me japanese kira drill press (must be from the 70ties :)) is sturdy. I hope it will work wine.


Thats also good advice, was also thinking about those diamond drill bits for tiles, but the good ones are expensive and cheap ones probably not worth the trouble.
Click to expand...
id get a variety pack like this .. try the tapered ones carefully drilling both sides until it goes through.. that way you get almost any size hole you want .. up to the maximum it can do..

 
Finished up the seax that Joshua Fisher Joshua Fisher did the heat treat on.
The blade is 9" and the handle 5", the profile from one at the British museum.
The guard and pommel are bronze, slightly darkened with bluing.
The pommel is only 1/4" thick so I got some less common 1/4-28 allthread and a bottoming tap to get a good hold.
The handle is African Blackwood and looks amazing highly polished and waxed.
I actually got the guard to fit well despite the tang cross-section not being a rectangle (good to get lucky once in a while).
cVvfkFq.jpg

JcYCkh6.jpg
 
Richard338 said:
Finished up the seax that Joshua Fisher Joshua Fisher did the heat treat on.
The blade is 9" and the handle 5", the profile from one at the British museum.
The guard and pommel are bronze, slightly darkened with bluing.
The pommel is only 1/4" thick so I got some less common 1/4-28 allthread and a bottoming tap to get a good hold.
The handle is African Blackwood and looks amazing highly polished and waxed.
I actually got the guard to fit well despite the tang cross-section not being a rectangle (good to get lucky once in a while).
cVvfkFq.jpg

JcYCkh6.jpg
Click to expand...
oh boy can I relate to that!
 
Richard338 said:
Finished up the seax that Joshua Fisher Joshua Fisher did the heat treat on.
The blade is 9" and the handle 5", the profile from one at the British museum.
The guard and pommel are bronze, slightly darkened with bluing.
The pommel is only 1/4" thick so I got some less common 1/4-28 allthread and a bottoming tap to get a good hold.
The handle is African Blackwood and looks amazing highly polished and waxed.
I actually got the guard to fit well despite the tang cross-section not being a rectangle (good to get lucky once in a while).
cVvfkFq.jpg

JcYCkh6.jpg
Click to expand...
That looks really good!. But every time I see a knife like that I just think how in use is your hand not going to slide up and cut yourself.
 
Bunker Hill Blades said:
That looks really good!. But every time I see a knife like that I just think how in use is your hand not going to slide up and cut yourself.
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Thanks. I understand the concern about grip. These are historically roughly accurate and not unlike a puukko, which are still commonly used today. The guard is oval and 25% larger than the pommel which is also oval so that helps a bit. For me this is more of a display piece. I have at least 20 knives I would reach for first to cut something.
 
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