That's a super cool looking little EDC knife!
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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is$300$250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!
- Thread starter WillSwift
- Start date
Cliff Carter Knives
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- May 30, 2011
- Messages
- 715
Thank you very much!
Cushing H.
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 3, 2019
- Messages
- 2,714
PEU
Gaucho Knifemaker
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2006
- Messages
- 1,160
Yes, 50W JPT Fiber laser. I'm still learning, it's an amazing tool to do creative things!
Pablo
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2021
- Messages
- 57
Finished a few up that are shipping out today and starting a new batch this weekend. Lots of san mai orders lately.
Hengelo_77
Basic Member
- Joined
- Mar 2, 2006
- Messages
- 6,221
Good cause!Wrapped this up with an edge and sheath. It is currently being auctioned for charity in Ukraine, Save the Children International.
- Joined
- Jul 2, 2018
- Messages
- 403
Freaking awesome dude. Do you make your billets?
- Joined
- Apr 3, 2011
- Messages
- 5,790
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2021
- Messages
- 57
I do forge all of my own billets.
Just need to do the final sharpening and clean up on these 2! First time working with 3V, worked pretty well! First Scandivex grind on the right one, left is full flat ground, satin scotchbrite belt finish on both. Went to an 800 cork belt on the bevels of the scandi ground one.
Finished some kitchen knives:
My Paragon design with black paper micarta spacer and stabilized Koa/Amboina/Maple handles. Little over 12inch over all with an 8 inch blade, hidden tang handle construction.
My Loki paring knife design with black paper micarta spacer and frame. Stabilized walnut scales, frame handle construction. 4 inch blade, little over 8 inches over all.
All made from 14C28N, 61hrc. It's not the most exotic and flavour of the month knife steel, but in my experience it's a really good steel when heat treated well that offers a great balance of properties.
My Paragon design with black paper micarta spacer and stabilized Koa/Amboina/Maple handles. Little over 12inch over all with an 8 inch blade, hidden tang handle construction.
My Loki paring knife design with black paper micarta spacer and frame. Stabilized walnut scales, frame handle construction. 4 inch blade, little over 8 inches over all.
All made from 14C28N, 61hrc. It's not the most exotic and flavour of the month knife steel, but in my experience it's a really good steel when heat treated well that offers a great balance of properties.
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2021
- Messages
- 57
I got a few books focusing on leather and have been working on focusing in on my leather work. I feel like I have to be as careful as a surgeon to keep everything pristine while making it to avoid any unwanted marks or accidental tooling. Such a different animal than bladesmithing in its own way. Blade is my big belly camp knife in 80crv2 with a stonewashed finish, and a sweet bog oak handle…tuxedo liners. Also a little pocket clip EDC sheath I’m testing out. Love these clips so far.
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2019
- Messages
- 1,484
You guys are keeping busy.
I am slowly returning from my shoulder injury. Started with some simple designs in 2.5 M2 steel cut out from metal saws. They are testing at 65 HRC. Man, these really don't like drilling and grinding.
Lost in the first round trying to drill these but had more luck after resharpening the higher quality masonry bits. Less speed and more patience, I might not cause discoloration next time. Ordered some cheap full carbide and carbide tipped drill bits for the future. In the meantime, masonry bits will do the job.
N Natlek you mentioned using drill bits for tiles? Anything special? Do you sharpen them? Do they break? What speed do you use? Dry or which lube? Thanks for any tips.
I am slowly returning from my shoulder injury. Started with some simple designs in 2.5 M2 steel cut out from metal saws. They are testing at 65 HRC. Man, these really don't like drilling and grinding.
Lost in the first round trying to drill these but had more luck after resharpening the higher quality masonry bits. Less speed and more patience, I might not cause discoloration next time. Ordered some cheap full carbide and carbide tipped drill bits for the future. In the meantime, masonry bits will do the job.
N Natlek you mentioned using drill bits for tiles? Anything special? Do you sharpen them? Do they break? What speed do you use? Dry or which lube? Thanks for any tips.