• The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
    Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
    Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.

  • Today marks the 24th anniversary of 9/11. I pray that this nation does not forget the loss of lives from this horrible event. Yesterday conservative commentator Charlie Kirk was murdered, and I worry about what is to come. Please love one another and your family in these trying times - Spark

What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

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This arrived today! Now I need to build a stand for it and buy a forge and my home smithy will be off and running.
 
Went ahead and arbitrarily cut my 3-ft bar of magna cut into four 9 in pieces! It was actually a hard decision as I had been wanting to make a big Bowie!1652269303458.jpg
 
Went ahead and arbitrarily cut my 3-ft bar of magna cut into four 9 in pieces! It was actually a hard decision as I had been wanting to make a big Bowie!View attachment 1815158
I don't think the stock is thick enough for a Bowie, but I don't like that you've lost all flexibility for say one at 8" and another at 10". I'm sure you'll use it all anyway.
 
It's the first bar of "expansive" steel I bought. Also thinking about using the whole width and "crossing" the hidden tangs on the same part of the bar to maximize the use.
Freddy … I always struggle with that ā€œcrossing the tangsā€ idea. I have never found a way to cut the steel in that pattern with my ports saw … you just can’t make any kind of a tight turn without binding. Once I was able to drill a big enough hole to rotate the saw blade, but only once. Maybe one can be more successful with a cutoff wheel, but I don’t have one.

Mostly I just have to resort to a straight cut across the bar (and then cry at the waste of steel…
 
just about got this choil to where I want it this evening
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proly hit it with some sandpaper tomorrow and call it good enough for ht, and then get back to taking that swedge down to zero
 
Freddy … I always struggle with that ā€œcrossing the tangsā€ idea. I have never found a way to cut the steel in that pattern with my ports saw … you just can’t make any kind of a tight turn without binding. Once I was able to drill a big enough hole to rotate the saw blade, but only once. Maybe one can be more successful with a cutoff wheel, but I don’t have one.

Mostly I just have to resort to a straight cut across the bar (and then cry at the waste of steel…
Hi Cush, I drill the holes on the tang side near the blade and make one cut between the tangs with an angle grinder and a quality 1 mm cutoff disk. To make the cut precise I clamp a piece of wood or micarta as a guide. With the guide you will get the nice cut, it is important to "cut inā€œ aggressively and with speed or the wheel will try to dance on the surface of the tang.
 
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