What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I'm finally getting close to finishing up. Fit and finish has been the main thing that I've been working out with this knife. I've tried quite a few different things to get down how I will do it in the future, so hopefully it won't take me as long.

https://imgur.com/a/Zx54Lhy

Also at some point in the future I need to figure out what kind of lighting works best for getting pictures of a knife with a hamon. It's like the angles that best show the detail, also give off a glare. Maybe softer lighting would be best.
 
Diffused daylight is best. Even better, make a diffuser dome from a piece of white plastic (fluorescent light cover panel. Put two 24" long 2X4" strips of wood about 30" apart on a piece of plywood. Take a 48X24" fluorescent light panel and bow it so the ends are retained by the boards. You now have a diffuser dome that will not make reflections of things and will allow diffused light on the blade. You will still have to experiment with the best angle of camera/blade to get the most activity showing. A second piece of the white plastic may be helpful placed across the back of the dome to keep out any stray reflections or strong light.
When not in use just take off the dome and the whole thing will store flat against the wall or on a shelf.

You can often find the light panels with chipped or broken corners for free or deeply discounted at major hardware stores like Home Depot. If you find damaged ones on the shelves and they aren't marked down, take them to the service desk and ask what they want for them.
 
Finished another one of my “Overlander” camp knives. I’ve been playing with this design that comes from my love of bigger camp knives, but wanted something that could be gripped up on for finer tasks, and gripped back lower with a palm swell for a bit of chopping. I’ve been tweaking the ergonomics with use and feedback with each iteration….cool to look at, but if they don’t function they way you intend them, then it’s pointless to me. This one is in 416 stainless/80crv2 san mai.
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TheEdge01 said:
Here’s #3 slip joint. This one is much better. It has an 01 carbon steel blade, red paper micarta, brass liners, steel pins, and a nickel silver pivot pin. I was going for a sway back design with a lambs foot blade, but it turned out to be more of a sheepsfoot.
I guess my biggest complaint with this one, is the blade seems to bounce off the back spring instead of staying closed. Sometimes the tip will even come up over the liners.
What is the cause of this, and what can I do differently on the next one to correct this issue?
Thank you!
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It is the shape of the tang.
I just got a large plate of cheap paper micarta to make working templates before I start making a slipjoint in steel.
I'll stick to that for a while, you may want to try something like that as well
 
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Finished up my K390 drop point with a convex edge and sheath. Handle is micarta with corbys, g10 liners. Pancake kydex is way better than taco style.
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REK Knives said:
Because you can't see what you're doing 😂
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I think I need to see what is going on in the grind early on......

maybe I am standing in front of the grinder too much, but I Feel more as the blade is closer to being done :/

*added I DO think that flood would be Amazing though!
 
LittleGreyWolfForge said:
im kinda a noob at this...

but whats the liquid nitrogen for? I've heard about dipping the knives for treating them in some way?
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High alloy and stainless steels retain more austenite if only cooled to room temp. If you cool them with liquid nitrogen after quenching, you can convert more of the austenite to martensite and gain a bit more hardness. There is a lot more detail to this, most of which I do not understand and/or remember, but I think that's it in a nutshell. If you are curious, visit Larrin's knifesteelnerds website and poke around.
 
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