What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Roughing some TW-90 radius platens

[video=youtube_share;jWvijJGdP1A]http://youtu.be/jWvijJGdP1A[/video]

This is run dry for better material removal rate and longer cutter life. The cutter is an $18 Lakeshore Carbide 3/8" stubby with a standard grind and AlTiN coating run at 4,100 RPM and 20 IPM. It runs about half a day like this.
 
Nathan,

I received my D2 platen for my TW-90. Thanks! Just curious, why did you choose not to radius or angle the upper and lower edges on the belt side? Also could a longer version be used without a top wheel so one could do lengthwise bevel sanding?
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Roughing some TW-90 radius platens

[video=youtube_share;jWvijJGdP1A]http://youtu.be/jWvijJGdP1A[/video]

This is run dry for better material removal rate and longer cutter life. The cutter is an $18 Lakeshore Carbide 3/8" stubby with a standard grind and AlTiN coating run at 4,100 RPM and 20 IPM. It runs about half a day like this.
Click to expand...

OOHHH! I can't wait!
 
Coleslaw, I like the old one just as much I think... old stuff is awesome!
 
Nathan, Maybe I am mistaken but I bought a platen and chiller from you about a year and a half ago and I think the platen was made from A2. I see that you make them from D2. Is there an advantage of A2 over D2 steel? I am guessing that the heat treat will produce similar results with either. Just wondering. Thanks, Larry Lehman
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Nathan, Maybe I am mistaken but I bought a platen and chiller from you about a year and a half ago and I think the platen was made from A2. I see that you make them from D2. Is there an advantage of A2 over D2 steel? I am guessing that the heat treat will produce similar results with either. Just wondering. Thanks, Larry Lehman
Click to expand...

I too am curious. Thanks
 
Nathan the Machinist said:
Roughing some TW-90 radius platens

[video=youtube_share;jWvijJGdP1A]http://youtu.be/jWvijJGdP1A[/video]

This is run dry for better material removal rate and longer cutter life. The cutter is an $18 Lakeshore Carbide 3/8" stubby with a standard grind and AlTiN coating run at 4,100 RPM and 20 IPM. It runs about half a day like this.
Click to expand...

Woo Hoo. I can't wait. Thanks Nathan.
 
LARRYZ10 said:
Nathan, Maybe I am mistaken but I bought a platen and chiller from you about a year and a half ago and I think the platen was made from A2. I see that you make them from D2. Is there an advantage of A2 over D2 steel? I am guessing that the heat treat will produce similar results with either. Just wondering. Thanks, Larry Lehman
Click to expand...

It depends on the type of platen. The big thick flat platens with blind mounting holes and end radius are intended for lengthwise plunge grinding. The thinner flat platen with through holes and plain ends are just a regular flat platen.

A2 has good machinability so it can be set up on edge and I can take a fine full depth finish cut to mill the large radius platens and to cut the flat platens with end radius without step marks. I can't do that in D2.

But, for a plain flat platen without an end radius I can start with PFG and avoid that tall cut all together. So for that I can use D2.

D2 is very abrasion resistant and will be a better material for folks who are just using it as a regular flat platen and aren't using the end radius for lengthwise plunge grinding. Going down to the stock platen thickness negates the material cost difference.

So, for folks who are just using it as a regular flat platen they'll be better served with D2. But I can't do some of the cool geometry in D2 with a good surface finish which is where A2 comes in.
 
This was the big event I had going on these weeks:

oCgOAfP.jpg


It works!
 
Droptine5 said:
Coleslaw,
Hey man I see you just got a Lil buddy. I have been eyeballing them I would love to hear what you think about it.
Justin
Click to expand...
Gotta be honest, if you watch the "official" video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efWex0iEfik) you get exactly what is advertised. It took me a little over an hour to get it together. Everything fits together perfectly, so you don't have to fight to fit parts together. Everything is rock solid and it is not much louder than a 1x30. Chris was quick to answer emails, shipped it when he said he would, and everything was well packaged. I am 100% satisfied with the deal.

I have been looking at the "budget" grinders for a while, and I was sold on this one based on the good reviews I read here and elsewhere, and the fact that the tool arm was steel and not aluminum.

Anything specific you'd like to ask about it?
 
Droptine5 said:
I have watched that video a couple times. Mainly what you think of the belt speed?
Click to expand...
The belt speed works for me. I do this as a hobby only, and mainly smaller hunting type knives and very thin kitchen slicers. If I was doing larger blades I might want more than 1800 but I don't have the experience to speak definitively. I was able to taper 4.5 inches of 1/8 tang today at around 5 minutes per side.
 
coleslaw said:
The belt speed works for me. I do this as a hobby only, and mainly smaller hunting type knives and very thin kitchen slicers. If I was doing larger blades I might want more than 1800 but I don't have the experience to speak definitively. I was able to taper 4.5 inches of 1/8 tang today at around 5 minutes per side.
Click to expand...
Thanks that's what I was wanting to know. I do about the same, hobbyist, I just wanted to know it wasn't to fast and easy to burn a blade. Sounds like it is nice!
 
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