What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

REK Knives said:
Nice job! My question about tapered tangs is that they only really work with full flat grinds correct?
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Depends on what you mean by "really work", I have seen many a scandi grind with tapered tangs
deerrockknives said:
Finished up this puukko 52100 @62-63 hrc .10-.20 behind the edge to tip. Profile marathon of 14c and magnacut, some cru wear, 10v, and d2 (10v and d2 from @Seedy Lot)

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I'm eyeing those bird beak pommeled ones.. any examples of one of those finished up?
 
REK Knives said:
Nice job! My question about tapered tangs is that they only really work with full flat grinds correct?
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They work ork with all sorts of grinds. I have a Hossom that I got from Jerry at Blade several years back in thin stock with a high hollow grind and tapered tang that is very well executed! Whenever I need inspiration I pick that knife up and stare at it.

Zac Buchanan, known for his loveless patterns does deep hollows with tapered tangs.
 
FredyCro said:
Why is that? Bob Loveless did them on his hunters and they are hollow ground.

I think functionaly and aesthetically they make more sense with a heavier/thicker stock.
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I should have been more specific and said 'full height' grinds (all the way from the spine to the edge) rather than a full flat... the reason I'm saying that is - wouldn't the taper section (which has to be flat for the scales to sit against properly) have a noticeable transition point where it transitions from the taper to the blade flats above the grind?
 
Not if the knifemaker is better than I am, and can control the height of the grind :)

Just kidding. When finishing the flats you blend the taper so it is not visible. Grinding the taper extends maybe 1/8 of an inch (or less) above the handle scale.
 
REK Knives said:
I should have been more specific and said 'full height' grinds (all the way from the spine to the edge) rather than a full flat... the reason I'm saying that is - wouldn't the taper section (which has to be flat for the scales to sit against properly) have a noticeable transition point where it transitions from the taper to the blade flats above the grind?
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I'm doing one in 3/16" stock, tapering to 1/16" over 4". Yes I made it as flat as possible where the scales will attach. However, the transition you are talking about is only about a one degree angle for the parameters I listed. It seems easy to blend it in. Full disclosure, I haven't finished assembly yet, but it looks good so far.
 
got me some bits and pieces from Alpha Knife Supply Alpha Knife Supply . I love their proprietary pivots and screws- tight tolerances
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Got a decent satin high grit belt finish on hardened S90V:

tOokzA4.jpg

Kx00M0h.jpg


Spent over 5 hours on this one blade alone going up to 16 micron, finding deeper scratches left over, back to 120 (like 4 times back to 120!) and working my way back up. I wonder which EDM stones would work best on this steel?

It still has some scratches left behind (you can see them, but not feel them, but its pretty shiny and smooth feeling, so it should be good for a Shechita! I am sending the first one to the customer in the next few days so I can make sure they like the handle and blade finish or if I need to try to polish it more. I got 2, 24" pieces of S90V in to redo the 2 big ones and grind these pre heat treat!
 
Taz said:
Got a decent satin high grit belt finish on hardened S90V:

tOokzA4.jpg

Kx00M0h.jpg


Spent over 5 hours on this one blade alone going up to 16 micron, finding deeper scratches left over, back to 120 (like 4 times back to 120!) and working my way back up. I wonder which EDM stones would work best on this steel?

It still has some scratches left behind (you can see them, but not feel them, but its pretty shiny and smooth feeling, so it should be good for a Shechita! I am sending the first one to the customer in the next few days so I can make sure they like the handle and blade finish or if I need to try to polish it more. I got 2, 24" pieces of S90V in to redo the 2 big ones and grind these pre heat treat!
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For EDM stones I use the Falcon N series on S90V and they work well. Probably would work better with stoning oil, but I used windex.
 
Nice job, and a good soldering jig. I will advise you that the amount of solder you used is about six times the amount needed. If you are one who places the snippets on the guard prior to heating, hammer the solder into a thin ribbon, wipe it off with a piece of 400 grit sandpaper to clean it up, and cut tiny snippets from that. I put on the flux and heat from the back side. Use gentle heat. When the flux bubbles I start touching the solder wire to the ends on the guard slot (spine and edge ends). When it flows, I move the heat under the guard to pull it along the joint. I also use a brass wire solder pick to help the solder flow. Just pull it along the joint and the solder will follow right along. If there is a spot that it does not want to flow in I add some flux, heat a bit again, and touch the solder at that spot ... followed by the brass solder pick.

Make a brass graver from a piece of 1/4" brass to cut the excess solder away.
 
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